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#1
08-07-2007, 03:00 PM
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W124 OM 603 A/C Help Followed Saumill's steps
Hi guys,
I just went through member saumill's 50 diagnostic steps to fixing the A/C on a 603 rig. Anyways, I think I have a bad Klima relay based on: -Ground at Pin#10 when CCU engaged -Temp sensor (Pin#12) did not show Ground -Compressor speed sensor was 650ohms -Engine Speed sensor was 7.5kohms (recommended was 2k but the engine was hot so that may have an affect on the reading since coils are higher impedance at higher temps) Generated 12ac when running Now here's what happened when I jumpered 5 and 7 giving 12v to the compressor. It would engage the clutch and spin for about 2-3 seconds and blow the fuse. I did this a few times. Here is my situation. There is NO Refrigerant in the A/C system. I press the valve and not a hissss or anything remotely resembling one. So... Here's my question?????????????????????????????????????? Would charging the system with refrigerant help the compressor stay engaged (i.e. Stop blowing my #7 fuse)? lastly... how about freeze 12? Anyone like it. I mentioned it to a guy locally and he said it's flamable (he thinks). Last thing I want is a bomb under my hood and dash!!!
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. 
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#2
08-07-2007, 04:04 PM
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You are lucky you did not lock up the compressor doing that. No freon means a leak somewhere. Oil leaks out with the freon, even though some does stay behind. The oil and freon mix together, and that is how the oil circulates.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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#3
08-07-2007, 05:01 PM
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The compressor only came on a few burst for about 3 seconds each until the fuse blew. Anyways, does anyone know why the fuse blows so quickly?
Will adding freon fix the problem with the fuse? Maybe?
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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#4
08-07-2007, 08:00 PM
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sounds like a bad AC clutch. Freon has no connection to blowing fuses
Measure the resistance of the clutch and compare to another one
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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#5
08-07-2007, 08:18 PM
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That's what it is exactly... I started a new thread to the specific problem:
Compressor Clutch shorted Can I change the Clutch
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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#6
08-08-2007, 05:54 PM
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To answer your earlier question... if the car had R-12, and mineral oil, and has not yet been converted to R-134a with PAG/POE oils... DO NOT CONVERT it. Use R-12 if at all possible, and if you just can't bring yourself to do that, use an alternative refrigerant that works with mineral oil (like AutoFrost).
Avoid any refrigerants (like R-134a) that require PAG/POE oils. It's the oil that's the problem (terribly hygroscopic, doesn't play well with the residual mineral oil). It's worth every penny to fix the system, test it with both pressure (dry nitrogen) and vacuum (from a proper AC vac pump, 29" Hg) and once you've got it leak-free, just fork over the $100 for R-12 and do it right. Oh - if you still have the "green" fan switch at the drier, replace it with the newer "red" switch... the red one triggers the fan at a much lower temperature, helping low-speed AC performance. 
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