That sounds exactly like my problem where after changing my motor and tranny mounts my car shakes far worse at idle than ever before. I have to keep my idle adjust almost to the max to smooth it out.

I'll be interested to see the results of this threads investigations. I suspect it might be compression test time for mine as well.

- Peter.

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2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S

I would kind of like to trail along with you if it gets to the milli volt thing.
The harbour freight compression gauge is ok for our limited use. Most purchasers are fairly happy. I feel that a good used brand name off of ebay is better though for simular dollars. I have a harbour freight cheapie.

I'll be interested to see the results of this threads investigations. I suspect it might be compression test time for mine as well.

- Peter.[/QUOTE]

Compression is a firly early and important thing to check on obscure problems. Too many times I have seen people run around in circles before finding they had a really low cylinder for example.
If compression reads ok then it is time to see if the engine is properly power balanced. Since a lot of that is determined by injectors and the pump itself it requires the milli volt approach to check it out. We really have nothing else. The way I look at it presently is any reliable test beats guesswork for amatuers like me. It can also save money along the path and find the underlying problem as well.

My problem does not occur when first started, yet the next time I idle, stop sign etc. shake shake shake

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83 SD

84 CD

From your symptoms you may have the classic rack dampner shake. My 1985 300D experienced the same symptoms and became worse as the engine reached operating temp. My wife hated the martini shake....and she doesn't drink. She said our son in the back seat was moving up and down.
I initially replaced the injectors with new which resulted in no perceptable change and was becoming disgusted.
Recently, after further research of this great forum, I adjusted the rack dampner bolt in or screwed it nearly all the way in, thus the shake was 95% eliminated. Indications are the spring inside the rack dampner bolt weakens and the bolt needs replacement. A new rack dampner bolt has a stouter spring to elimate the shakes totally.
Previously before I adjusted the rack dampner bolt, the engine idled smooth when first started and became progressively rougher or shakier as it warmed up. Use the link below for great photos and written description how to eliminate the shakes with the rack dampner bolt adjustment....very simple.
http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/rackbolt/

Best Regards!!!

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'96 C220 138,000mi, '95 E300D 239,000 mi., '87 300TD 214,000mi '88 6.2 Turbo Diesel Chevy Conversion Van 253,000 mi.

Jeez. Same problem! New engine mounts, shocks, shock mounts, rack bolt, valve adjustment, injectors, you name it!

Low cylinder means what- rebuild??? Does it always mean new rings? how about 'just' a burned valve?

My shake disappears sometimes when on an incline. Disappears sometimes just whenever it wants to, but also reappears whenever it wants to also. Comes and goes.

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

delivery valves

Mine did the same thing so i removed the delivery valves and cleaned them and reinstalled them.

now smooth as silk.

They were slimed up.

I did all the usual fixes like injectors and rack bolt etc... no change

Steve

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85 300d in progress

IP delivery valves? I run dino, just did a purge, ran fine then.

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84 CD

Pulled IP valves, clean as a whistle.

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It's not that the delivery valves get clogged up, its that they are not torqued down correctly. If the motor mounts/shocks, rack dampener, air cleaner, etc. all check out good, re-torque the valves. The procedure should be 30Nm ...loosen, 30Nm again.....loosen, 35Nm final.

If you have an FSM for the 617, I would check this out. I know that these torque values work on the 603, but I would check to see what the values are for the 617 first.

Have FSM. Busted a nut loosening to check. Those boys are tight, and no rubber seals.

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83 SD

84 CD