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  #1  
Old 07-02-2007, 06:11 PM
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98 E300TD 100K service?

Im a newbie and was wondering what needs to be done at the 100k mile service? I already changed the air filter and did the oil, coolent and brake fluid. The car is a 1998 E300TD. Thanks

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  #2  
Old 07-02-2007, 07:11 PM
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Location: North Shore, MA
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Since I bought mine at around 102k mi, I've replaced the following components:

- Fuel pre-filter & O-ring
- Shut-off valve O-ring
- ATF (7.8L synthetic Dexron III - Febi)
- ATF filter
- Transmission electrical plug connector
- Cabin filters
- Fan clutch
- IP delivery valve O-rings (6) & fuel line clips
- Fix combination switch (clean hibeam contacts)
- Engine mounts
- Belt tensioner damper
- Serpentine belt (2130mm Conti)
- Oil + filter every 5k mi
- Air filter every 10k mi
- Fuel filter once per year

Others that I plan on doing are:

- Lower control arm bushings (shimmy @ 55mph)
- Driveshaft flex disc
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2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2007, 07:50 PM
raMBow's Avatar
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Location: Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott19_68 View Post
Since I bought mine at around 102k mi, I've replaced the following components:

- Fuel pre-filter & O-ring
- Shut-off valve O-ring
- ATF (7.8L synthetic Dexron III - Febi)
- ATF filter
- Transmission electrical plug connector
- Cabin filters
- Fan clutch
- IP delivery valve O-rings (6) & fuel line clips
- Fix combination switch (clean hibeam contacts)
- Engine mounts
- Belt tensioner damper
- Serpentine belt (2130mm Conti)
- Oil + filter every 5k mi
- Air filter every 10k mi
- Fuel filter once per year

Others that I plan on doing are:

- Lower control arm bushings (shimmy @ 55mph)
- Driveshaft flex disc
Scott19 has a good list I would really suggest you get the transmission fluid changed.
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1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2007, 09:03 PM
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1997 W210 E300TD 243,000
 
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Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 983
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tom.jeffs4/car%20stuff/merc%20tech/Assyst/
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:10 PM
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This ones a lil bit easier to read. You'll want to review pages 4 & 5 especially and add a trans service to the list using MB's 722.6 or 722.9 fluids (I believe Shell Fuchs is the manufacturer of the latter). You'll also want to get a maganet for the pan as I don't believe yours came with one originally.

See post #3 - 100k miles maintenance
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09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2007, 02:29 PM
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Where can I get the magnet for the pan? Is it a mercedes part? Part number? Thanks for the advice guys.
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  #7  
Old 07-03-2007, 02:34 PM
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Location: Walnut Creek, CA & 1,150 miles S of Key West
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Call Phil, or go to the dealer.
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N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2007, 03:49 PM
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Location: Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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Do a search and the magnet number will come up. I'm pretty sure I listed it in one of my posts. I'd also look at rubber parts that likely need to be changed, motor mounts, front and rear sway bar bushings and links, transmission mount, etc. Searches will yield lots of info.
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  #9  
Old 07-18-2007, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott19_68 View Post
Since I bought mine at around 102k mi, I've replaced the following components:

- Fuel pre-filter & O-ring
- Shut-off valve O-ring
- ATF (7.8L synthetic Dexron III - Febi)
- ATF filter
- Transmission electrical plug connector
- Cabin filters
- Fan clutch
- IP delivery valve O-rings (6) & fuel line clips
- Fix combination switch (clean hibeam contacts)
- Engine mounts
- Belt tensioner damper
- Serpentine belt (2130mm Conti)
- Oil + filter every 5k mi
- Air filter every 10k mi
- Fuel filter once per year

Others that I plan on doing are:

- Lower control arm bushings (shimmy @ 55mph)
- Driveshaft flex disc
Hello Scott,

I am a new owner of a 1998 E300DT with 135K miles on it. I plan to do most of the basic to moderate maintenance myself. I took the car to the local MB dealer to get the transmission fluid changed and they also told me that I needed to change many of the items you listed in your list. Can you tell me if you did these items yourself? If so, what maintenance manual or shop manual do you use?

I have had a hard time determining if a factory maintenance manual even exists for my car.

Thank you.
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  #10  
Old 07-18-2007, 07:57 PM
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1997 W210 E300TD 243,000
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 983
The difficult jobs on scott's list are:

fan clutch
delivery valve o-rings
lca bushings

The rest aren't that bad and if you're reasonably competent you could do all of them. Things like filters are unbelieveably easy to do, don't pay anyone for those.

I wouldn't use the ATF that scott did. Stick with MB ATF - thats the common advice.
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  #11  
Old 07-18-2007, 10:06 PM
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Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 200
Hi cyman73,

I have performed all of the maintenance on my '98 and so far everything has went fairly well. I use AllDataDIY.com for things like electrical diagrams, torque specifications, and general how-it-works information but I'd have to say that this forum is invaluable for me. Luckily, the DIY section covered the easy stuff and a quick search in this particular forum has served me well in the area of delivery valve O-ring and soon to be lower control arms.

Make sure you have a set of regular and external Torx bits as you move towards the more advanced stuff. I've also picked up a telescoping rod with a magnet on the end that comes with a little inspection mirror attachment at Sears that is absolutely invaluable! I will drop something into that plastic belly pan every time I break out the wrenches under the hood. Also, a pair of those high-strength plastic ramps work very well to and are nice and light so I can easily stash them up on a shelf when they are not needed.
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Scott C.

2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)
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  #12  
Old 07-18-2007, 10:10 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 200
Quote:
I wouldn't use the ATF that scott did. Stick with MB ATF
Actually, this is the stuff that Phil sent me when he helped me with collecting the parts for my ATF & filter job. Turns out that Febi is the OEM supplier for the MB ATF - the stuff is identical even down to the containers. Just slap an MB ATF label on it and it's the geniune stuff.
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Scott C.

2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:12 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott19_68 View Post
Hi cyman73,

I have performed all of the maintenance on my '98 and so far everything has went fairly well. I use AllDataDIY.com for things like electrical diagrams, torque specifications, and general how-it-works information but I'd have to say that this forum is invaluable for me. Luckily, the DIY section covered the easy stuff and a quick search in this particular forum has served me well in the area of delivery valve O-ring and soon to be lower control arms.

Make sure you have a set of regular and external Torx bits as you move towards the more advanced stuff. I've also picked up a telescoping rod with a magnet on the end that comes with a little inspection mirror attachment at Sears that is absolutely invaluable! I will drop something into that plastic belly pan every time I break out the wrenches under the hood. Also, a pair of those high-strength plastic ramps work very well to and are nice and light so I can easily stash them up on a shelf when they are not needed.
Thank you for sharing your experiences. I am sure that this forum will be my main source of information.

I am also reading about the top side method of changing the oil and the fact that even dealerships use it. I've never used this method for any of my cars and I am a bit uneasy about doing it. What is your experience with this?

Thank you.
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2007, 10:21 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 200
Quote:
I am also reading about the top side method of changing the oil and the fact that even dealerships use it. I've never used this method for any of my cars and I am a bit uneasy about doing it. What is your experience with this?
I bought one of those hand-operated oil vacuum pumps on eBay for around $40 and it works fairly well extracting the oil out of the dip stick tube. It is very nice since I can do it with the oil being hot and not let anything settle out into the pan, but the container is heavy plastic that tends to deform under the vacuum and the temperature of the oil. I'd try to find a metal one if I were you - I think I would have preferred this one from Harbor Freight.

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2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)
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