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#16
07-08-2007, 03:35 PM
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If it aint broke, don't fix it.
That is unless your unlucky and have more money then sense. I think a lot of people think that tearing into an old Mercedes diesel is like tearing into an old Ford six, and maybe just a little easier because it has one less hole. Go to the store, get a hand full of parts and stick em in there. Man, never get into that thing unless you really know what you are doing and have the equipment to get it done. Really, just think about it for a while. Now that said, and if the engine is out and you are thinking of putting it back into service, now is an excellent time to clean it all up and "re-seal" it. Re-seal everything that you might suspect is leaking. And if you are the typical homeowner repair guy, when it is re installed, it will still leak. Maybe not as much though.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! 
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#17
07-08-2007, 04:41 PM
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The engine is not that complex, only the tolerances are far more restrictive. I've gone through Japanese engines with twin cams that were more complicated. It all depends on the tools you have, your skill level and how fat your wallet is.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 
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#18
07-08-2007, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
so I was asking about how to do what is necessary, prudent, and hopefully end up with a motor that runs like it had 70,000 miles rather than 270,000. I guess there is a flaw in my reasoning there, but that is where the question came from. Jason
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46 WDX Power Wagon 84 300TDT daily driver
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