oil filter, does REALLY it matter which one you pick?
 

Is the Cheapest of these filters one to avoid or should i go ahead and buy a few? allso if i choose to run synthetic oil in my 1984dt, how long can i extend the oil-change intervals?

NO!!!!!! Not again! :eek::eek::eek:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/62342-best-oil-filter-oil.html?highlight=filter

The Made in Turkey Fram is the only one that does not use recycled cotton gin waste.

6000 is a good base for synthetic, only go more if an oil analysis says it's safe.

allright, im staying with dino then. thanks...

You can get a real good filter and not pay a lot for it.

www.fleetfilter.com

I'd skip on the cheap brands.

AWESOME! Do you know which filter numbers (wix) from that website that the MB diesel uses?

The site shows Wix #Napa #Description Price Case Quantity Quantity Order 513851385Oil Filter$8.34 12 almost twice that price on the oil filter:

those prices were from a fleabay auction

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wix-Filters-for-Mercedes-Diesel-300D_W0QQitemZ180142176180QQcmdZViewItem

www.FleetFilter.com shows those same part numbers as:

33149 Fuel Filter #1 for $6.26
33006 Fuel Filter #2 for $1.92
51385 Oil Filter Cartridge for $8.34
42194 Air Cleaner Element for $7.30

One each totals $23.82. The last 51385 I used was a Wix that was "Made in Poland".

i'm pretty sure it doesn't matter what filter you use in these modern times anymore. or a filter at all for that matter. what are you filtering, really? if your engine is clean then what are you gonna filter out? some .000001 micron - soot?
also, it's too simple to make a good filter. any indian can do it according to bosch. if you are able to make a crap one you'll be kicked out of the market soon enough I'd say.
that cotton story seems to stick. how would cotton threads ever get any further than the filter is a mystery to me, or how they could do any damage to the engine anyway, (scratching cylinder walls with cotton?) but app. the turkish made fram is the way to go..

All this conflicting advice from seasoned members. What's a NUB like me to do?! :confused::confused:

It's not the cotton that is the problem. "Cotton gin waste" (ie: floor sweepings) includes rocks, dirt, sticks, insects, etc. I cut open a STP filter (made in India) sold by Autozone and found all of the above items inside. Others have reported similar findings.

Agreed. We cut open about 1/2 dozen filters back in the thread. Most of them were crap.

For the 603, the OE filter and the Mahle are pretty decent, but, I'm sure there is variability among manufacturing facilities.

I personally use the full-flow only (no bypass section) WIX filter number 51385 since I have an external bypass filter. I also blocked off the bypass oil return hole on the oil filter canister's lid with a small setscrew.

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/1364_1.gif

I wonder if that filter would work in my 300D. I'd like to install one of my bypass filters, since they've done so well at scrubbing the oil clean in my gas cars. At that point, I wouldn't really need the bypass filter built in to the cartridge anymore. Time to do some part number searching.

Does blocking the bypass return port offer any advantage, versus just leaving it open?

does it really matter...
 

for me, yes, it does. but it doesnt matter which one YOU pick for your car...

I dont use the wix because it doesnt have a bypass section.
I tend to go w/ mhyle or turkish fram...

I run syn @5k drians, going for an EOA this round.

So that's the filter that was in my 300D when I got it!!.. I always wondered about it not having a bypass section.

So I see all the numbers above and wonder if we are solely looking at filters for the OM617 ?

I have a Wix 51385 that was in a box of parts (Brand new perfect condition as best I can tell), but I am not sure what it is for. I have Bosch 1 457 429 274 and a MANN PF 1050/1 that are both for my 617, but they look different than the Wix. The wix is also taller by 25-30mm.

Any comment?

I am guessing that's going to be a problem. Not that I am real good with numbers!!!

The mentioned WIX is a 32 nominal micron Filter. For Details click on the Filter number at the below site.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/ResultsPart.asp?PartNo=51385

On my Bypass Oil Filter setup I dirilled and tapped directly into the center of the Oil Filter Cap.
I did nothing to block of the Oil Return and Check Valve that are near the bottom of the long tube on the Oil Filter and Oil goes into the Bypass Oill Filter with no problems.
I use mostly Bosch Oil Filters.
The advantage to not blocking off the Check Valve/Oil Return is that the way my Filter is set up if the Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up the Check Valve is there to open up and allow the Oil to flow as it would normally.

You can see from the below pic that the Bypass Filter is clearly working (I left it in for 2 Oil Changes).
It is a 0.5 nominal micron string wound Filter.

I cannot speak to oil filters specifically but I design air induction systems and from what I have seen of air filters I would definately spend the extra dough for the good stuff.

Unlike the Oil Filters that some information is available on the micron level that they filter Air Filters seldom lest that information.
When I looked for that type of info I found a 3 Air Filters that listed that they Filter to 15 Nominal Microns. But, they were paper Element Filters that were for industrial purposes. Something like you might find on a medium sized Fork Lift.

This is just my though on it but I believe the same sized particles in the Oil will do more damage than the same sized particles coming in the Air Intake system.
The reason is that the Oil actually gets squirted and injected directly into the precision areas.
Only part of the Air with particles that goes into a Cylinder is going to make contact with the Cylinder Walls.
I believe that most of the particles in the intake Air are going to go out with your Exhaust gasses.

The problem with the intake Air is that you are always filtering new Air.
With the Oil the same Oil is passing through the Filter thousands of times so the Oil has a more chances to be clean than the Air does.
The intake Air only gets one shot at filtration.

We are getting off topic with the Air Filter issue. But, here is what I did.
Washable Air Filter and Intake Mod , With Larger Breather
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=280376

OEM filters are not designed to guarantee that all particles of a certain size are removed from the air. The specification is usually around 99.5% initial efficiency of ASTM fine dust.

ASTM fine dust has a range of particle sizes the smallest of which I recall being suprisingly large but I would have to look it up to be sure. However, some dust will always get through.

As the filter loads up it will trap smaller particles so it is a good idea NOT to change your filter too frequently. That is the most common mistake made with air filters.

Cheap aftermarket filters are garbage, the biggest problem being that the urethane seal usually does not do it's job thereby allowing unfiltered air right past the filter media.

K&N filters are meant to keep out small animals and children, nothing more. And no, they cannot possibly increase your horsepower by 5, especially after all that oil is transferred to your MAFS and turns your A/F ratio into garbage.

The good news? Do just as you did and clean your filter! We did a study a few years back and found that taking your dirty filter and whacking it on a table to remove the dust was nearly identical in performance to purchasing a brand new OEM filter. With a conical or cylindrical filter you could use compressed air from the back to blow it out. On most cars you could probably do this for the entire life of the vehicle.

And I think you're right, a bit of dust into the intake is much less harmful than in the oil for all the reasons you stated.

Sorry about the threadjack!

Why can't you run the WIX in a stock setup?

The wix 61X filter has a nominal filtration of around 40microns, and no bypass soot collector... I don't like them unless you run an aftermarket bypass setup.

John, thank you so very much for clarifying! :D Also glad to see you online. Still swamped?

See that now.

Looks like I should just stick to the Fram CH2930. Can't seem to get them locally anymore for some reason. Nervous ordering online, but figure if I stick to a reputable should be fine.

Anyone ever use a Fram CH4536? I've never seen one before, looks a bit different.

The issue again is that it doesn't have the bypass section. Apparently one needs that section for really good oil filtration.

I be leery of FRAM unless you can hold it in your hands and check quality. Apparently hit or miss.

Hope this helps...

It's not clear to me that it doesn't have a bypass section...but it may be a problem that the bypass section uses the same media as the full flow section. I've ordered one to examine up close.

I'm tired of hearing about Fram being junk. Most of the arguments highly subjective and lack meaningful data. That said, I mostly use Wix or Hastings filters.

Set a Hastings filter next the wix filter... See the metal covered section on the hastings? That's the bypass section and it collects the soot from our oil...

I understand and I also understand that the bypass section is filled with cotton mill chaff, aka floor sweepings. Fram lists this as a full flow filter, and it lists it for Mercedes diesel applications. Odd.

I've got a Mann filter for the 617 banging around my toolbox. Full of the cotton-field-mowings and I can't quite bring myself to throw it away, though it's very unlikely I'll ever use it in my own engine.

Free to a good home if anyone wants it. You pay shipping or PM me for local pickup here in Oregon.

I have some Mann Filters that have the Mercedes Star and part number embosed on the top and some not Mercedes marked ones. People use them with no issues despite what is inside of them.
Oddly the Mann Oil Filter that are Mercedes Marked came in CAM-2 Boxes?

My objections to the trashy Cotton that is in the top is if it is not sealed in and that the Oil Filter Companies have no idea what filtration level the trashy Cotton has.

If the trashy Cotton is sealed in there is nothing unsafe about using the Filters.

I have used Bosch, Mann, Knetch (can't spell it and I don't have a box to look at) and Hengst before.

Long ago I added a Bypass Oil Filter and now I can use any Filter I want to without issues.

I was buying "Lots" of Oil Filter on eBay when the price was good so I have a bunch of them.

See pics for out of production Filters. I have the 2 Quaker State Filters. The Fram with the paper Element on both ends of the Filter apppears to be the same as the Quaker State ones; perhaps made by the same company.
The pic of the Fram came from a Seller on eBay; I don't have that one.

The Bosh Filters I was using visually were well made but there is zero marks on the to say where they are made. Since I have a lot of Oil Filters I have not bought anymore Bosch Filters. But, from the Pictures Bosch seems to be boxing the made in India Filters with the red holed Paper around the full flow section (same as purolator and STP). If so it is not well made and the upper tube is not sealed on either end.

Fram CH2930 now looks like a traditional "double can":

FRAM - Part Details

I think it's almost pointless talking about brands, as the filters inside the box seem to change in source and construction all the time.

Agreed on all points. I had two filters, one was sacrificed under the knife, exploratory surgery. The cotton-field-mowings are not sealed into the filter, so I'm extremely reluctant to use the filter and at the same time don't really want to throw it away if someone is willing to use it. I also know that millions of engines use exactly this same filter for probably billions of combined miles and don't have issues and I'm being ridiculous, but never before have I intentionally dumped dirt and sand and bug carcasses into my engine and I don't intend to start now.

So uh, hehe, if anyone still wants it, shoot me a PM. I'll toss it as soon as I replace it with spare Baldwin or whatever the other brand is, I forget. Edit: D'oh, it's a few posts above. Baldwin or Hastings.

Part numbers?
 

Can anyone provide part #s for the Baldwin and Hastings?

What about Fleetguard? I never see that name mentioned.

Baldwin part number is P102 for 616/617 engines.

Baldwin P102 and Hastings LF380.

Picture Comparison of Hasings Filter to a Mann Filter.

I have not read of anyone cutting apart a Fleetguard Filter. That is likely due to the cost and availability of them.

Any of the European made Filters have good quality and are inexpensive if you order enough to get free shipping.

Bob the Oil Guy has comments on who makes Fleetguard.

I have not read of anyone cutting apart a Fleetguard Filter. That is likely due to the cost and availability of them.

I don't know if it is in the "Bob the Oil Guys" site or some other sites; but I read that the Fleetguard Filters were made by Champion Labs (as were a lot of name brand Filters) but that Frame bought the Out sometime with in the last 3 Years.
So what Fram is going to do I think is unknown

The European made Filters are still the least costly quality Filters if you get them on the internet in some quantity.

How is the Hastings compared to Baldwin? Filters as good?

I really like the fact under $8! http://www.********.com/dbphp/x,catalog,257,partnum,LF380,d,HASTINGS_FILTERS_LF380.html

I know the rocking auto isn't always the greatest, but for that price, think worth the risk?

I only have the Hasting Filter. But, from the pictures I have seen they appear to be the same Filter except for the lettering on them.
When I emailed Hastings about the Mircon level of filteration at the bottom it had Baldwin Hastings on their Email
The pic of the Baldwin is from another Forum Member the Hastings pic is of one of mine.

:o

Recieved a Fram CH4536 today. Interestingly, it was an old-stock filter...the good one with the wound bypass section, not the full flow filter in the picture. As someone said, hit or miss.

Sorry the term "wound" isn't familiar to me. Can you post a pic?

Also thanks Adriel for pointing out that the Rock sells Baldwin filters. I never think to search by part number (does not show up if you search by car).

Fleet guard is now Cummins Filtration, I believe.