PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - DIY: Rebuild the self leveling suspension SLS valve on w123 300TD wagon sagging rear

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I now have the w123 SLS O-Ring kits available. If you are intersted in a kit please email me or send me a PM. I'm offering one kit for $10, each additional kit is $5. This includes all the o-rings in the w123 valve, shipping, and a PDF copy of sealing instructions.

Spings carry the weight....

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry (Post 1580518)

Great write up.

Can you elaborate some more on the idea that the SLS carries no load with an empty wagon and that the springs alone should carry the load under these conditions. I've seen this posted before here but I read something somewhere that made me question it. I was left with the impression that the hydraulic struts were designed to carry some load even with an empty wagon.

To answer the question, the springs are meant to carry the load (support the vehicle weight) with the engine and leveling system off. If the car sags when cold the springs need to be replaced. The leveling system is meant to "augment" the springs under load. If you need (or want) a little more beefy suspension, or if you go to normal shocks you will want to use (HD) springs for a 300SD as they are a bit more heavy duty.

It is too bad Mercedes does not carry the rebuild kit any more. I just bought mine 4 months ago from the local dealer (RAB Motors:AKA Robbers and Bandits) for @ $80.00. It comes with replacement springs, pistons, ball bearings and copper washers besides the main o ring. One might try a dealer to see if they have any in the back room.

I just realized this was stated at the beginning.

Quote:

** A word about proper ride height: The unloaded curb weight of the car should be carried entirely by the springs (i.e. If the car has good springs, the unloaded car won't sag even if the SLS is disconnected). I keep repeating this because its important. The fix I describe in this thread is only part of the job (the easy part), and if you don't replace the springs (or shim them) you will likely have to repeat the job all too soon (or worse, prematurely wear out the actuators). When the SLS system is working properly you should never know its there until you put a heavy load in the rear cargo area with the engine off. This is the only time you should see the car level itself on start up.

Self Leveling Valve

I know this is an old post but I thought I'd try. I need to rebuild my SLS in my '83 TD. Do you still have these 0-rings?
Thanks,
Tyler
kumaaz@yahoo.com

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD (Post 1758859)

Douglas was nice enough to send me his leftover o-rings for the o-ring kits, and I ordered the large o-rings this week, but they are going to take 2 weeks to get to me apparently, not sure why. But I should have them the last week in Feb. If you are intersted in a kit feel free to email me or send me a PM. I'm offering one kit for $8 includes shipping, each extra kit is $2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyler (Post 1933295)

I know this is an old post but I thought I'd try. I need to rebuild my SLS in my '83 TD. Do you still have these 0-rings?
Thanks,
Tyler
kumaaz@yahoo.com

I do still have the kits available, and I responded to your email, so information awaits you!:D

I followed the direction real careful, but for some reason the small spring inside the inner piston keeps slipping out as I put the piston assembly on top of the larger ball (bearing). What am I to do?

Robert

I rebuilt a spare, installed it and it works fine. I now have my original rebuilt and ready to go if someone wants to buy it. There are some differences in these so make sure it's the one you need. Mine is from an '83 300TD. The number on the body is 115 328 0521 which is covered by the bracket but I have lots of pictures.

do you still have the rebuilt valve, and if you do can you sell it to me?
Robert

Quote:

Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida (Post 1580065)

http://www.ultimatekayakfishing.com/..._57_198806.jpg

10) Remove the bolt holding the valve lever arm to the shaft (figure 1.H, 10 mm wrenches). Pull the valve lever arm off of the shaft. Push the shaft out through the valve body. Use the bent pick to remove and replace the two o-rings from the valve body (2 x 7) where they seal against the shaft. Re-install the shaft, lever arm and 10 mm bolt.

http://www.ultimatekayakfishing.com/...8_57_53613.jpg

I have everything done except for one of the orings mentioned above. I pulled one out of the valve body groove, and installed a new one. Where does that second one go???? My kit has 2, and you speak of 2 being replaced. Surely they can't both go in that one groove. :eek: I barely got the one in there, and there was only one in there to remove.
I'm dead in the water until I figure this out, but at least all other pieces are cleaned, rebuilt where required and ready to reassemble......

OK, I'm rebuilding a pump stamped 42 78, which I'm guessing is 42 week of 1978. Andrew was nice enough to send me a pic, and his Valve had two grooves for orings and was stamped 03 83, I guess the 3rd week of 1983.
This valve assy was from a '79 300TD, so there is apparently a change of the part somewhere.
I'm sure we can all guess why.....:(:(

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL (Post 2065106)

I wonder if you have kits for the SLS cubes found in the 6.9's and the W126's with full SLS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL (Post 2065106)

I had the same experience rebuilding a 82 300TD valve. Only one o-ring where the directions show two.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi (Post 2122755)

I wonder if you have kits for the SLS cubes found in the 6.9's and the W126's with full SLS.

Hey Al. I got my kits from Andrew, Biodiesel300TD [see post 16]
I don't know a thing about 6.9's.......:(

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi (Post 2122755)

I wonder if you have kits for the SLS cubes found in the 6.9's and the W126's with full SLS.

These kits are for the 123 valve. I also know nothing about the 126 SLS. I should start learning about them though. I do know that the 124 valves are a sealed unit and are not rebuildable. So I wouldn't be surprised if the 126 valve is the same way.

It looks like the early 123 valve only have 1 seal on for the shaft of the lever arm that goes through the body of the valve. I have a note in my instructions about that now. Luke do you happen to know the data stamped into your valve?

SLS Valve Schematic?Does anyone have one?

Just took my valve apart, it was wet and am awaiting the o-ring kit. I noticed that one of the brass fittings that attach to the valve body has a copper washer (small thread fitting) while the larger thread fitting did not have a copper sealing washer but appears to have a taper where the fitting meets the valve body. Anyone know if this requires a copper washer too? A schematic of this valve would be really helpful showing all parts for the SLS valve. Does anyone have one? Thanks!