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12 1/2" and 12" with one gallon of fuel, so no wonder looks saggy. If the most is 3/4", that only gets half way. Then put a tank of fuel in and bet drop at least half an inch, if not a whole inch. Again, so glad to have it confirmed saggy springs. Had to put down Grandmother's old cat yesterday, clean the house, then today deal with insurance and taking the cat down to be cremated. Hopefully tomorrow can get at it. |
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There is a Mercedes part number for a rebuild kit from dealers for the valve.
If the problem is sagging overnight sometimes just renewing the fluid can correct that if it is really full of debris. The baseline pressure contribiting to static ride height is due to a metal to metal interface in the valve and debris can allow fluid to slowly "leak" instead of holding steady overhight. There is a Mercedes guy in Oak Ridge TN to thank for that tidbit. Performance Analysis | Climate Control | Diaphragms | Blower Motors | Pushbutton Panels | Vacuum Door Locks | Autotemp | Cruise Control | Engine Oil Analysis | Mercedes-Benz Parts | Mercedes-Benz Club of America | Oak Ridge | Car Care He has put together a kit he sells with components needed to rebuild the radial piston pump. I think the O rings are viton in his kit. spring struts are now available for less than $100 each from dealers who ship parts for 25% off list price. |
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Renewed, flushed, the fluid and no change in ride height or response. Plan was to avoid the pump for now. If rebuilding the control valve does nothing, then do the pump. I have springs for all four corners, but only doing the rear for now as no compressor. |
adjust the ride height valve maybe
those pumps stop putting out pressure needed to do the job after the Orings are old, loose resillience, the high pressure fluid blows right by the Oring into the low pressure feed area so there is no output pressure if so, rebuild kit from performance dynamics its easy you'll need a bamboo chop stick or a plastic one to help get it apart |
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Not according to the F.S.M.. With the hose off, how much of a stream should be coming out? I was getting about what you would use to do a gentle water on the garden. Now that just got a little bread back from the student loan, yes, don't have to be such a stickler. |
a little trickle to lift the car
don't think so try to block off the flow see how that goes it take pressure to lift the car a trickle is ok it must be pressure you are talking to experience here sounds like you are reading the fsm wonky operate spring struts with teeny pressure no ride ht is both springs and baseline fluid pressure together you may need springs |
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Here: https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-310.pdf In summery, can only be a difference of 0.6" side to side. |
This is an excellent DIY write up - thank you to those who have contributed!
I've included 2 links that I think and hope will be helpful to any of you addressing the self leveling suspension system in the W123. If you have any further questions, feel free to post a Comment just below one of the articles and someone will get back to you with more detailed info. Best of luck! Understanding Self-Leveling Suspension Self-Leveling Valve Rebuild -Dmitry |
This is a great write-up, which corrects some of the misinformation in this thread.
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The SLS control valve maintains the base pressure at a minimum, if it is in good operating condition. When the car sags after the engine is shut off, the base pressure is leaking off, which can be either from the SLS struts (there would be a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the rear of the car) or from the SLS control valve. Usually it is the valve. A quick check to see if the control valve is leaking off the base pressure: With the engine off, check the SLS return line at the reservoir in the engine compartment. If there is a steady drip-drip-drip from the return line, the control valve is leaking internally and the rear of the car will eventually sag. |
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Seems not getting a rise, loaded her up with two dogs and two bins of heavy suspension parts to test; guess at about 350 pounds. |
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It's a pretty simple, reliable system once you get everything right. Typically the first to fail is the nitrogen spheres, valve then the pump. The struts are pretty tough other than the wear on the lower joint. With the engine running you should see a very steady stream from the return line on top of the reservoir. |
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Okay, when did the fluid flush, had really good flow. Seems then my diagnosis of the valve is correct. B.T.W., no external fluid leaks and did check the sphere diaphragms and intact. |
If anyone is looking for further information on the W123's suspension, including the SLS system; please check out the link below!
Mercedes-Benz W123 300TD (1977 - 1985) Technical Article Directory | DIY Maintenance and Repair Projects for MBZ 230, 240D, 280 CE, 300D, 300TD | Pelican Parts -Dmitry |
Does anyone have the o rings needed for this job? I need them and finding the exact ones on amazon is a chore! Any help is appreciated.
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