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-   -   DIY: Rebuild the self leveling suspension SLS valve on w123 300TD wagon sagging rear (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/195914-diy-rebuild-self-leveling-suspension-sls-valve-w123-300td-wagon-sagging-rear.html)

Adriel 12-27-2016 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennislarock (Post 3668423)
I rebuilt the SLS in my '85TD in 2007... still going strong. 2014... I put in new Rear Struts.
Ride height... is and always has been 13.25" from Center Star to Fender Well ...with no load and empty fuel tank or 600 lbs load and full fuel tank. There are Coil Spring Pads of different thicknesses which can lower or raise the ride height by about 1/4" .

Dennis, than you so very much! :D

12 1/2" and 12" with one gallon of fuel, so no wonder looks saggy. If the most is 3/4", that only gets half way. Then put a tank of fuel in and bet drop at least half an inch, if not a whole inch.

Again, so glad to have it confirmed saggy springs.

Had to put down Grandmother's old cat yesterday, clean the house, then today deal with insurance and taking the cat down to be cremated. Hopefully tomorrow can get at it.

moon161 12-28-2016 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel (Post 3667736)
...
Ride height with no fuel in the tank on driver's side is 24 1/4" to the wheel well lip and 23 3/4" on the passenger side. I have searched and searched and no specifications....

This sounds like a broken spring.

Rocket99 12-28-2016 09:23 AM

There is a Mercedes part number for a rebuild kit from dealers for the valve.

If the problem is sagging overnight sometimes just renewing the fluid can correct that if it is really full of debris.

The baseline pressure contribiting to static ride height is due to a metal to metal interface in the valve and debris can allow fluid to slowly "leak" instead of holding steady overhight.

There is a Mercedes guy in Oak Ridge TN to thank for that tidbit.

Performance Analysis | Climate Control | Diaphragms | Blower Motors | Pushbutton Panels | Vacuum Door Locks | Autotemp | Cruise Control | Engine Oil Analysis | Mercedes-Benz Parts | Mercedes-Benz Club of America | Oak Ridge | Car Care

He has put together a kit he sells with components needed to rebuild the radial piston pump. I think the O rings are viton in his kit.

spring struts are now available for less than $100 each from dealers who ship parts for 25% off list price.

Adriel 12-28-2016 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocket99 (Post 3668524)
There is a Mercedes part number for a rebuild kit from dealers for the valve.

If the problem is sagging overnight sometimes just renewing the fluid can correct that if it is really full of debris.

The baseline pressure contribiting to static ride height is due to a metal to metal interface in the valve and debris can allow fluid to slowly "leak" instead of holding steady overhight.

There is a Mercedes guy in Oak Ridge TN to thank for that tidbit.

Performance Analysis | Climate Control | Diaphragms | Blower Motors | Pushbutton Panels | Vacuum Door Locks | Autotemp | Cruise Control | Engine Oil Analysis | Mercedes-Benz Parts | Mercedes-Benz Club of America | Oak Ridge | Car Care

He has put together a kit he sells with components needed to rebuild the radial piston pump. I think the O rings are viton in his kit.

spring struts are now available for less than $100 each from dealers who ship parts for 25% off list price.

The rear end never changes height, even with about 200 pounds of load, meaning warn springs. Plus with the out of tolerance side to side, springs no longer in specification. Therefore mist be replaced.

Renewed, flushed, the fluid and no change in ride height or response.

Plan was to avoid the pump for now. If rebuilding the control valve does nothing, then do the pump.

I have springs for all four corners, but only doing the rear for now as no compressor.

Rocket99 12-28-2016 04:19 PM

adjust the ride height valve maybe

those pumps stop putting out pressure needed to do the job after the Orings are old, loose resillience, the high pressure fluid blows right by the Oring into the low pressure feed area so there is no output pressure

if so, rebuild kit from performance dynamics

its easy

you'll need a bamboo chop stick or a plastic one to help get it apart

Adriel 12-28-2016 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocket99 (Post 3668642)
adjust the ride height valve maybe

those pumps stop putting out pressure needed to do the job after the Orings are old, loose resillience, the high pressure fluid blows right by the Oring into the low pressure feed area so there is no output pressure

if so, rebuild kit from performance dynamics

its easy

you'll need a bamboo chop stick or a plastic one to help get it apart

Hey, thank you so very much for the help! :D

Not according to the F.S.M..

With the hose off, how much of a stream should be coming out?

I was getting about what you would use to do a gentle water on the garden.

Now that just got a little bread back from the student loan, yes, don't have to be such a stickler.

Rocket99 12-28-2016 04:51 PM

a little trickle to lift the car

don't think so

try to block off the flow

see how that goes

it take pressure to lift the car

a trickle is ok it must be pressure

you are talking to experience here

sounds like you are reading the fsm wonky

operate spring struts with teeny pressure

no

ride ht is both springs and baseline fluid pressure together

you may need springs

Adriel 12-28-2016 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocket99 (Post 3668653)
a little trickle to lift the car

don't think so

try to block off the flow

see how that goes

it take pressure to lift the car

a trickle is ok it must be pressure

you are talking to experience here

sounds like you are reading the fsm wonky

operate spring struts with teeny pressure

no

ride ht is both springs and baseline fluid pressure together

you may need springs

Okay fine, thank you for pointing that out and convincing me.

Here: https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-310.pdf
In summery, can only be a difference of 0.6" side to side.

Dmitry at Pelican Parts 01-26-2017 02:07 PM

This is an excellent DIY write up - thank you to those who have contributed!

I've included 2 links that I think and hope will be helpful to any of you addressing the self leveling suspension system in the W123. If you have any further questions, feel free to post a Comment just below one of the articles and someone will get back to you with more detailed info. Best of luck!

Understanding Self-Leveling Suspension


Self-Leveling Valve Rebuild



-Dmitry

Maxbumpo 01-27-2017 11:03 AM

This is a great write-up, which corrects some of the misinformation in this thread.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmitry at Pelican Parts (Post 3676764)

My biggest problem with the thread is the incorrect statement that the rear springs alone hold the proper ride height. This is NOT correct! The FSM has a section on the SLS that explains the operation, and proper ride height (in "ready to drive" state) is maintained by both the springs and the base pressure in the SLS. \

The SLS control valve maintains the base pressure at a minimum, if it is in good operating condition. When the car sags after the engine is shut off, the base pressure is leaking off, which can be either from the SLS struts (there would be a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the rear of the car) or from the SLS control valve. Usually it is the valve.

A quick check to see if the control valve is leaking off the base pressure: With the engine off, check the SLS return line at the reservoir in the engine compartment. If there is a steady drip-drip-drip from the return line, the control valve is leaking internally and the rear of the car will eventually sag.

Adriel 01-27-2017 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo (Post 3676960)
This is a great write-up, which corrects some of the misinformation in this thread.



My biggest problem with the thread is the incorrect statement that the rear springs alone hold the proper ride height. This is NOT correct! The FSM has a section on the SLS that explains the operation, and proper ride height (in "ready to drive" state) is maintained by both the springs and the base pressure in the SLS. \

The SLS control valve maintains the base pressure at a minimum, if it is in good operating condition. When the car sags after the engine is shut off, the base pressure is leaking off, which can be either from the SLS struts (there would be a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the rear of the car) or from the SLS control valve. Usually it is the valve.

A quick check to see if the control valve is leaking off the base pressure: With the engine off, check the SLS return line at the reservoir in the engine compartment. If there is a steady drip-drip-drip from the return line, the control valve is leaking internally and the rear of the car will eventually sag.

And if sagging all the time?

Seems not getting a rise, loaded her up with two dogs and two bins of heavy suspension parts to test; guess at about 350 pounds.

Whiskeydan 01-28-2017 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel (Post 3676967)
And if sagging all the time?

Seems not getting a rise, loaded her up with two dogs and two bins of heavy suspension parts to test; guess at about 350 pounds.

Either your pump is weak or the SLS valve is shot. I have a pump if needed.

It's a pretty simple, reliable system once you get everything right. Typically the first to fail is the nitrogen spheres, valve then the pump. The struts are pretty tough other than the wear on the lower joint.

With the engine running you should see a very steady stream from the return line on top of the reservoir.

Adriel 01-28-2017 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan (Post 3677295)
Either your pump is weak or the SLS valve is shot. I have a pump if needed.

It's a pretty simple, reliable system once you get everything right. Typically the first to fail is the nitrogen spheres, valve then the pump. The struts are pretty tough other than the wear on the lower joint.

With the engine running you should see a very steady stream from the return line on top of the reservoir.

Thank you so very much for the reply! :D

Okay, when did the fluid flush, had really good flow. Seems then my diagnosis of the valve is correct.

B.T.W., no external fluid leaks and did check the sphere diaphragms and intact.

Dmitry at Pelican Parts 04-06-2017 07:31 PM

If anyone is looking for further information on the W123's suspension, including the SLS system; please check out the link below!

Mercedes-Benz W123 300TD (1977 - 1985) Technical Article Directory | DIY Maintenance and Repair Projects for MBZ 230, 240D, 280 CE, 300D, 300TD | Pelican Parts


-Dmitry

MTUpower 12-14-2017 06:21 AM

Does anyone have the o rings needed for this job? I need them and finding the exact ones on amazon is a chore! Any help is appreciated.


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