Originally Posted by warmblood58 (Post 2149310)

Just took my valve apart, it was wet and am awaiting the o-ring kit. I noticed that one of the brass fittings that attach to the valve body has a copper washer (small thread fitting) while the larger thread fitting did not have a copper sealing washer but appears to have a taper where the fitting meets the valve body. Anyone know if this requires a copper washer too? A schematic of this valve would be really helpful showing all parts for the SLS valve. Does anyone have one? Thanks!

Originally Posted by PhilipDiesel (Post 2149578)

This is from a previous post about the SLS system

To answer the question, the springs are meant to carry the load (support the vehicle weight) with the engine and leveling system off. If the car sags when cold the springs need to be replaced. The leveling system is meant to "augment" the springs under load. If you need (or want) a little more beefy suspension, or if you go to normal shocks you will want to use (HD) springs for a 300SD as they are a bit more heavy duty.

Is this true? Can the springs be adjusted by adjusting the height of the torsion bar if the top coils are visibly compressed?

All these questions! i love it.

-philip

Originally Posted by npk (Post 2464322)

After I dismantle the valve, there is a larger ball bearing that fell out from the valve.....where is this ball bearing suppose to be seated?

Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

NPK

Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida (Post 1580852)

I'm not sure how to elaborate any more than I have.

I stress the point mostly for owners of wagons that sag badly (> 5 cm). Rebuilding the valve as I've described will completely alleviate the symptom, but it does not really fix the whole problem.

I cannot prove the assertion, but I'm convinced that the SLS should carry near zero weight in the unloaded car (maybe the difference between an emtpy vs full tank of fuel, ~ 100-125 lbs). The only true test I can think of is to release all the pressure from the SLS (open the bleeder) on an unloaded car with a new set of rear coil springs. I haven't done that yet, but here is the data I do have.

On my 84, the 23 year old springs allow the rear to sag about 4 cm. (It was about 7 cm originally because of the PO's overzealous height adjustment.)

On my 85, the sag is less than 2 cm.

Both cars have 170K on them. The 84 was a registered school bus (yes, I call it the "short bus"), so it was always carried the extra weight of passengers. The 84 will be getting new springs, the 85 will be getting sold. ;)

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel (Post 3193724)

Question though: I just bought an 83 300TD with 199,xxx miles on it, and the oil in the SLS tank is as black as coal, really it looks like crankcase oil. Any ideas on why this would be? Just never been changed? Cross contaminated with crankcase oil somehow? Serviced with the wrong oil? The mysteries of a previously enjoyed car.

Originally Posted by vstech (Post 3193733)

yes, when the pump o-rings wear out, engine oil soot does contaminate the sls system. also, as the rubber hose begins failing, it'll contaminate the oil. it's pretty simple to drain, and flush most of the fluid out, but I'd change the pressure and return hoses first.

Originally Posted by Rocket99 (Post 3008730)

Mercedes FSM makes it very clear: the unladen weight of the W123 wagon with SLS rear end the rear weight is carried by BOTH the springs and the baseline pressure fed to the spring strut by the level control valve. This engages the shock absorbing effect of the system all the time. If your wagon rear is sagging under normal unladen conditions then replacing springs (or maybe shims only, they say springs) is THE solution. The SLS is designed to respond to loads to bring it back to level if it sags low due to weight in the rear.

this information is directly from MB FSM 32-501.

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel (Post 3193814)

So, should I replace the o rings in the pump? Is that even possible?

Originally Posted by Adriel (Post 3667736)

Have a 280TE that am sorting. No fluid leaks, no bouncy or harsh ride, replaced the sway bar links, checked one accumulator just to be sure, flushed the fluid (golden yellow), seeing get a decent flow. However, still not getting the rear to rise up with load (easily 200 pounds (two boxes of heavy spares, a 75 pound Golden, and 45 pound Goberian (my helpers)).

Do have visably bad caster and inside edges of the newer tyres bald, which is one reason why replaced the sway bar links.

Ride height with no fuel in the tank on driver's side is 24 1/4" to the wheel well lip and 23 3/4" on the passenger side. I have searched and searched and no specifications.

Thinking to order the control valve O rings, anyone interested since there is a minimum order on the smaller ones?

Thank y'all in advance for any help! :D

Originally Posted by Alec300SD (Post 3667805)

SLS system references are in the W123 and W126 FSMs under section 32-501 through 32-741.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/chassis_81_to.htm

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/chassis_500SEL.htm



There is a reference in the Note on 32-501 page 32.3-504/1 "(for checking vehicle level - refer to 40-300 and 40-310)". These jobs are located in the W126 FSM.

"Permissible difference vehicle level measured between left and right side of vehicle" is 8 mm with special tool, 15 mm with tape measure. Job 40-300 page 952.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-300.pdf

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/disc%202/program/Chassis/40-310.pdf

Happy wrenching :)