1976 240D problems - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jasonzarecor · #1 08-05-2007, 04:16 PM

Hey guys and gals,
I am new to the forum and Mercedes diesel ownership. I have a 1976 Mercedes 240D it has roughly 130 to 150 k miles on it. I know this does not sound right but the last recorded service was in 1998 and it had 92 k miles on it and the gentleman died in 2001 and the car was not driven until 2006.

So here is what is up. I got the car tuned, fuel sensor replaced, ball joints , tie rods, and some other front end do dads replaced. The shop said the AC compressor and evaporator needs replacing that the AC clutch is going bad. (A) can only the clutch and evaporator be replaced?
The mechanic said the car needs to be driven so I have been driving it. It smokes like a mosquito fogger from 0 to 40 and seems to have good days and bad. I saw on the forum this could be an injector adjustment issue. (B) what is the problem? I checked the oil this morning and there was hardly any and black as pitch (C) what is up with this? Ok now to the most irritating and embarrassing the car squeals louder than a train whistle when you you first start driving and now it has begun squealing at stop signs. (D) help me I can't bear this any longer. There is a way to get rid of it though...rev the engine while applying the brake. It is as though I am attempting a brake stand in a 65 HP car with black smoke killing the tree hugger behind me.

Other than these issues I love this car. It is avocado green with matching hub caps. A lady in my office has a 2006 BMW 7 series and says at least 2 times a week "I love your car!!!"

I am semi mechanical and have very little facilities to do repairs but I would like to know what to tell the repair guy since all he says is "it will be $1000" and I think he may be doing a little more than necessary ie. the AC compressor.

I am putting a new cold air intake on it this week and purging the diesel system this week as well, if that matters in the assessment.

Thank you very much!!!!

lietuviai · #2 08-05-2007, 05:01 PM

Are you sure he said evaporator? That's the part inside the passenger compartment and is a major job to replace. $1000 would be a good deal to replace all the components you mentioned.

toomany MBZ · #3 08-05-2007, 05:20 PM

(A) I don't know. (B) Check valves, check compression, valve seal condition is a process of elimination. (C) You do need to keep an eye on this as you're burning quite a bit, see smoking like a fogger . Black color is normal. (D) Is probably a belt or two or three. Replace all. Air conditioning repairs can add up, the rest of it sounds like you can do, with proper tools. Cold air intake? Purging is good. Replace both fuel filters afterward. Keep an eye on the primary filter, clear in line one, for signs of dark color.

diametricalbenz · #4 08-05-2007, 06:24 PM

Fogger = check and or inspect the condition of the vaccum pump diaphragm. When it leaks it sucks engine oil through the tear right into the intake manifold.
Fix that and then start in on everything else so you stop believing that all other drivers have only one finger per hand.

lietuviai · #5 08-05-2007, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diametricalbenz

Fogger = check and or inspect the condition of the vaccum pump diaphragm. When it leaks it sucks engine oil through the tear right into the intake manifold.
Fix that and then start in on everything else so you stop believing that all other drivers have only one finger per hand.

I agree here. Fix engine issues first.

t walgamuth · #6 08-05-2007, 06:33 PM

sounds like a squeeky fan belt. could be loose on the alternator or the ac compressor siezing up.

Tom W

jasonzarecor · #7 08-05-2007, 06:54 PM

lietuviai,
I think it may have been the drier. It is the part that needs replacing when you do work on or rebuild the compressor. Does that sound right and can I only replace the clutch and the part in question (about 60 bucks in parts) or do I need the compressor, clutch, and part in question (about 300+ bucks in parts)?

Thanks

lietuviai · #8 08-05-2007, 07:00 PM

The clutch is replaceable. You need a special puller and quite possibly an installation tool as well.

estod · #9 08-05-2007, 07:03 PM

Members of this forum are pretty well united in their distrust of K&N filters, and even more of inexpensive add-on cutesy air inlet tubes with little air filters on them. The feeling is that all of these will let in a lot of grit which, since a diesel runs unthrottled (sucks in maximum air all the time), will have a negative impact on the life of your engine. If you have an oil bath air filter, you may be able to change that for a MB paper filter assembly ..... Ask the experts, of whom we are well blessed here.

jasonzarecor · #10 08-06-2007, 12:10 AM

estod,

I was of the impression that if the air was sucked easier and a shoter distance that was a good thing. Is this not true? Also, with the present oil bath setup the oil or oil vapor is sucked into the engine. i assumed this was not as good as a more modern setup. I did try putting a filter in the existing oil bath canister and it is impossible to get one to fit right. Second problem with that is the filteration is limited to an area about the size of a lemon. Being that an oil filter is designed togo in, down, and then up. I used a round filter that covered the inlet tube to the oil bath compartment, so now it is in and up. If that makes any sense. Is there a better way?

Rmcfarland · #11 08-06-2007, 01:21 AM

You probably could get the whole paper aircleaner housing and necessary brackets, etc. at the junkyard off of a W123 240D or 300D. That would seem like the best route to me.

toomany MBZ · #12 08-06-2007, 04:27 AM

Would you like to go with a K&N filter, I have one, new in box. Fits a turbo tho, so you'll need a different air filter housing.