I finally got around to putting a belt on the compressor on my '83 300SD as it was missing at the time of purchase. To check the function of the compressor (and see if the system holds pressure), I started the car and gave 12V to the compressor clutch. Well, it looks like good and bad news.

Good news: All of my ACC internals function, except for a few lights and a sticky blower relay, and now I have a working compressor.

Bad news: Refridgerant oil sprayed out the front of the car from a 1/16th in. hole in the removable hard elbow on the coil.

Now I know why there was no system pressure!

Is this something I can JB weld? My preliminary guess is that it's not but I'd love to hear a more seasoned MBer's view on the pressure at the point of the leak.

If not, is this a cheap part? I surely hope so.

On a side note, I'd like to thank anyone who has ever posted about removing the black box and associated EGR/Transmission control vacuum lines. Now the car has shifts like butter.

__________________
1983 300SD
Rusty, Loud and Proud

I just soldered a hole in a condensor with Solder-It paste. I haven't checked it for pressure yet but it looks good. I would recommend solder over JB weld.

I tried JB Weld on a condensor on an old Pontiac I had. Held for about 30 seconds. Then had the condensor soldered by a "professional shop". They even repainted it. Held for about 2 months.

I ended up replacing the condensor.

Just replace the part, IMHO.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Well it is the weakest link right now, so if you temp fix it, you likely notice leaks elsewhere anyhow. I say temp fix and keep looking for the next weakest link.