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  #16  
Old 08-17-2007, 04:41 PM
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Looks just like my old car, same color combo. Must have been garaged, otherwise the interior would be Pinkamino by now.

On this car, heat only from the climate system is not related to vacuum. Which vents blow air can be a vacuum problem, but not heat vs. cold. So you have a problem with the control unit or the monovalve.

- JimY

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  #17  
Old 08-17-2007, 04:43 PM
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Unfortunately I will have to drive it home with the hose like that, unless there is someone living in Denver area that could give me a hand, or recommend a good diesel mechanic that won't charge an arm and a leg. Anybody out there?

I should be okay if a bring extra oil and keep a close eye on the gauge right?
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Last edited by TylerH860; 08-20-2007 at 02:13 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2007, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue View Post
Well the PO caused more work for himself than he avoided but you don't need to tell him that. The oil cooler lines are routed together until the bend to connect to the top/bottom. To "lift" the engine all that is needed is to remove the bottom bolt of the engine mount, use a bottle jack with a 2x4 on the crank pulley and raise it about 1". Even if he has "driven it for a year" this way, personally I would purchase a new oil cooler line and install it before a long return trip. It is not that difficult of a job and most "bubble-gum" fixes are an accident waiting to happen.
Er Ya. Maybe not on the crank pully!

A 2x4 or 2x6 under the oil pan works fine.
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2007, 04:48 PM
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Between your pressure gauge and the rearview mirror, you should be able to catch it. Might want to bring 8 quarts of oil, since they take about 7.5 or so to fill up. In addition, bring basic tools as a just in case. I'd much rather have some piece of mind than break down somewhere with something simple and just being able to stare blankly at it.

If he did it like that, the engine mount was probably failing, and he took the easy way out. If the mount gets real weak, the belt rubs the hose.
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2007, 04:52 PM
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jimmy doesnt get out much
thou i believe the real world does end in USA
just not in Texas
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  #21  
Old 08-17-2007, 05:05 PM
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I doubt the motor mounts are failing, this guy just seems lazy or sick of the car, but I suppose I won't know until next month when the car shakes my fillings out or not. You would think he would have got to the bottom of the vac leak at the very least and made himself a bit more money. He relisted the car twice; lowering the reserve each time.

If I were to take it to a reasonable mechanic, how much am I looking at here?

Repair list where it stands:
Blowing heat only
Vacuum Leak (takes engine up 10 secs to turn off, power locks weak, etc.)
Correcting bubblegummed oil cooling hose. (possibly motor mounts)

My budget for this new car is $5000, spent $2000 to buy it, $500 to fly out there, and another $500 to properly blend and refinish the little hints of oxidation on the roof. That leaves $2000. Is this realistic?
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2007, 05:49 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
Unfortunately I will have to drive it home with the hose like that, unless there is someone living in Denver area that could give me a hand, or recommend a good diesel mechanic that won't charge an arm or a leg. Anybody out there?

I should be okay if a bring extra oil and keep a close eye on the gauge right?
I'm in denver, but I will actually be in chicago for the next few weeks. Regarding a benz shop, I use Star Tech (303-744-7021, http://startechmercedes.com/), they are very good but they are not cheap. You may want to give them a call and get an idea of cost for the oil lines before you drive home.
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  #23  
Old 08-17-2007, 06:05 PM
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Unless you are not mechanically astute at all, I would assess the line and connections closely and make sure they are tight. Bring some basic tools with you. This way you can establish some point of confidence with its integrity b4 you take it on the road. Also, pop the hood open and chk the line whenever you gas up.

If you need lines that bad, go online and buy one and have it delivered overnight and take it with you as a backup.
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  #24  
Old 08-17-2007, 08:24 PM
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I will be picking it up Sept 13 and staying over the weekend, hopefully drive it home Sunday.
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  #25  
Old 08-17-2007, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
I doubt the motor mounts are failing, this guy just seems lazy or sick of the car, but I suppose I won't know until next month when the car shakes my fillings out or not. You would think he would have got to the bottom of the vac leak at the very least and made himself a bit more money. He relisted the car twice; lowering the reserve each time.

If I were to take it to a reasonable mechanic, how much am I looking at here?

Repair list where it stands:
Blowing heat only
Vacuum Leak (takes engine up 10 secs to turn off, power locks weak, etc.)
Correcting bubblegummed oil cooling hose. (possibly motor mounts)

My budget for this new car is $5000, spent $2000 to buy it, $500 to fly out there, and another $500 to properly blend and refinish the little hints of oxidation on the roof. That leaves $2000. Is this realistic?
I wouldn't take it to a mechanic for the climate control or vacuum problems. Diagnosing those problems is time consuming but can be done with help from this board. No need to spend your money there.

I'd probably buy a spare set of oil lines to carry along but drive it home with the existing line and keep a close eye on it.
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  #26  
Old 08-18-2007, 12:03 PM
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Looking at about $120 for spare lines. Labor to put them in, well that's questionable. Not sure what the book rate is, but going by the board, the average is somewhere between 3-8 hours. You need to jack up the engine to put them in also, so not sure if that's something you want to do on the side of the road if it goes. If you're that worried about the oil lines (and I would be, after all oil is your car's blood), call around where the car is located, find an indy that would be willing to do the job, and schedule to have it done. That would be nice piece of mind for the drive home.
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  #27  
Old 09-11-2007, 08:38 PM
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I'm flying out Thursday to pick it up. Wish me luck
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  #28  
Old 09-11-2007, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
and another $500 to properly blend and refinish the little hints of oxidation on the roof. That leaves $2000. Is this realistic?
I have the same color and the "oxidized" roof spots, hood and deck lid fading. My plan is to repaint those three items complete. Not sure that "blend" will work on mine. (You can see mine in my Gallery pics.)

Good luck with it. Seems like a fair price. I paid a smidge over $3500 last August for mine with 217K miles on the clock. Flew to Sarasota from Ohio and drove it back with no problems other than the fact the banjo bolt and turbo boost line needed a good cleaning out!

PS: Don't forget to use the GREEN handled pumps at the filling stations!
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Last edited by 85 DSEL; 09-11-2007 at 10:29 PM. Reason: forgot something!
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  #29  
Old 09-11-2007, 10:48 PM
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There a number of us forum members who live in Denver. If you have any problems, let us know.
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  #30  
Old 09-11-2007, 10:57 PM
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