IP timing after the valve job....
Just did my IP timing ,after valve job , 1 drop per second ..... but cam lobes are down ---- 180 degrees offffffffff ??? :( ..... at compression stroke fuel doesnt flow AT ALL.:banghead:
I test drove car today sluggish as hell , no acceleration , severe engine shake ... starts perfect ... , as for the valve adjustment just did them once after tighten headbolts , so will have to do it again seats are probably hammered in place,and just to be sure will check cam timing.... Am i right about 180 degrees off? Any tricks on removing oil filter prior IP removal?? Thanks. |
The cam lobes should be pointing up. You shouldn't need to remove the IP for a valve job.
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I didnt remove IP , head is back on the car , i was rotating engine without head to check if oil that was in the cylynders didnt bend rods( had severe oil leak because of the broken exhaust valve), so chain got loose and skiped lots of teeth , so right now im just adjusting , so baby can run fine again.
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I guess you'll need to remove the pump and retime it.
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remove the front cover and take off the gear, and put the gear back on it when its back in time.
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If the timing was 180* off, the engine would not run at all. Set the crankshaft at #1 TDC and recheck all your timing marks. |
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Actually it crawls , i walk faster then car drives .... about IP removal and re timing it ....do i have to lock IP ...to set the mark ... , when setting the mark on IP turn clockwise only?
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If you've not yet removed the ip, I wouldn't. I thought I had similar issue with skipping teeth, but I called and asked some pros who rebuild these engines and they all said skipping ip teeth is very hard to do. If you have a FSM take a look at a cutaway drawing of the front of the engine that shows the ip gear. It's totally surrounded by a guide that would prevent most situations where you could skip teeth. Same goes for down below on the crank. So assuming crank and ip are still in sync, just remove cam gear and start over on the top and give it a shot. The 180 mathematically makes sense, since the crank has half the teeth, I believe, or at least it is somehow at a 2:1 ratio in some combination. At 180 off, I'm surprised valves aren't hitting pistons. Did you turn the motor over by hand before you hit it with the starter? If not, running rough may also be caused by bent valves. I'm by no means an expert on this job--only done it once, but I know I wasn't happy about the possibility of having to remove and reinstall the IP. Good luck!
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THanks i will have to do the same ,couple of my friends whos been doing this for 20 years, monday will remove pump and post some pictures,thanks
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Since he didn't mention removal of the IP during this "event", it's probably not a wise idea to remove and reinstall the IP..........although the result would be functionally the same. |
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