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#16
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I believe its only function is to limit the maximum engine speed. Not exactly sure of the mechanics of it, but when it gets spinning to a certain speed (near 5000rpm on this engine), centrifugal force will limit the rack travel so the engine doesn't fly apart.
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel |
#17
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According to the older models it controls flow and sometimes is referenced as a rack damper bolt. I don't think these two are the same. Also I don't think my IP has a rack damper bolt.
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#18
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Update!
2 of the 10 injectors submitted were defective with poor atomization. All of them had low pop pressure. So I'll have 8 of them shimmed and I'll fix the other 2 later. The IP is apart and it was noted that all the delivery o-rings were dry rotted. I didn't have a leak, but this may have an impact on the operation of the engine. I should get everything back by 9/19. Stay tuned! |
#19
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Well I have all of my parts from the dealership. I'm just waiting for that protective cap to come in from Germany. So it looks like I'll be taking my HD to the GTG this weekend.
Hopefully next week I'll be done! |
#20
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I got the calibrated injection pump and injectors installed and now it runs worse! I have to hold the pedal to the floor, and crank it for 10 seconds and the car will run for a minute if I keep it floored. While keeping it floored the RPMs will only reach 2500 rpms and then fall to an idle (while keeping it floored!!!). Once I let off the pedal it stalls. During all of this running it smokes raw diesel like crazy!!!
I will outline the installation of the injection pump. 1. 15 ATDC on Crank 2. Verify Intake and Exhaust lobes on cam point upward 3. Install IP with lock tool 4. Remove IP lock tool 4. Torque everything up The only thing I can see being amiss is the timing indicator on the timing chain housing. I aligned this as best I could with the mark on the cam. The mark on the cam aligns perfectly with the 0 TDC on the balancer. I'm going buy the tools needed to remove the prechamber and check the timing indicator as this is the only way to actually verify it is correct. I've been very lucky with the weather and being able to use my motorcycle, but my luck is starting to run out. Any help or suggestions is appreciated. Thanks I also tried the stiff wire technique to locate TDC but that seems inpossible with angular injection prechambers with cones located in the middle. See 01-417 in FSB for clarification. Last edited by mcguirjf; 10-01-2007 at 02:23 PM. Reason: More Info |
#21
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Again I would suggest you remove the part of the intake that runs accross the top of the engine, and unhook the exhaust pipe from the turbo. Now leave then off until you get this black smoke issue solved. I find it hard to believe you have a TDC problem or cam timing issue and still have 400+ psi compression. If the cam is out of time the compression will go down a lot. Black smoke from a diesel is cased by too much fuel for the amount of air it has for combustion. The other thing that can cause black smoke is the combustion event is happening too late, way too late, and the only way that can happen is for the IP to be out of time. It sounds like you got this correct so I still believe you aren't getting enough air or the exhaust is plugged up. If you remove the air cross-over and remove the exhaust pipe you should have a good running engine. If this works and the smoke is gone then you can replace them one at a time and see which is causing the problem. If this doesn't help, leave them off anyway until you do find the problem and then reinstall them.
Just a thought, I have known used parts places will sometimes stuff a rag in the exhaust manifold and intake system so moisture will not get into a cylinder and cause rust in the engine. Is it possible this was done and you didn't notice and installed the engine with them still in? My son ran into this when another shop installed a used Cummings engine in a road tractor and couldn't get it to run. He removed the rag from the turbo (intake side) and the truck ran fine. Keep us informed.
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#22
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Hi pmckechnie,
I have tried disconnecting the cross over pipe and header pipe. I went back to using my original turbo and exhaust manifold assy as the '87 190D (new engine) uses a pressure actuated wastegate and the '90 300D uses a vaccum. I definately agree with you on the cam and crank alignment. I feel that it would be a waist of time and money to verify something I know is not wrong. I tried to advance the IP last night as far as I could and it started to run better!!! I advanced by loosening the four bolts to the IP and turning the allen bolt to push the delivery valves on the IP toward the cylinder head. I may have gotten 3-4 degrees advance. My next option is to pull the IP and install with the locking tool with the crank at 10 ATDC instead of 15 ATDC. I'm starting to believe that the IP may not have been put together correctly. Could the timing indicator (what the IP locking tool engages) be installed incorrectly??? |
#23
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It Lives!!!!
After pulling and installing the IP three times I was able to locate where to install the IP. First was at 15 ATDC and advanced to 14 ATDC. Next was 10 ATDC and advanced to 0! It kept getting better. I then thought what would the chance be that it would run at 15 BTDC??? IT WORKED!!!
So my last question for this thread, was the FSM wrong stating 15 ATDC or was my timing indicator in the IP (what the locking tool engages) installed incorrectly??? |
#24
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Tomorrow at work I will do some research on this and see if I can find something. I know I have mine set to 14 deg ATDC and it runs perty well and gets 32 MPG on a trip and 25 around town. I'll let you know if I find out anything.
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#25
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Thanks!
I spoke with the shop that did the rebuild and they are very interested as to how this could happen. I didn't drive it this morning as it needs tie rod ends which I'll do tonight. The shop wants to know how it starts cold. From there they want to have me bring the car in to check it out. The shop has been very helpful. To be continued... |
#26
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Wow 14 months later
Well I'm about to install this IP in again and I'm wondering if I should install @ 14ATDC or BTDC?
I did find a cool way to verify the #1 piston is at TDC... Find the hole in the harmonic balancer with the guide pin and align it with the bolt hole for holding the timing indicator. They should align and be perpendicular to the top of the cylinder head. The timing for a 1987DT is the same as a 1990 300D right?
__________________
James Jet Engine Design Engineer with a car problem (I just wish it was curable!) 1990 300D 294K miles 1987 Vette 101K miles (4+3) 2003 HD Electra Glide 65K miles 1992 Ford F150 300 I6 2000 Suzuki TL1000R Human Missle Machine! |
#27
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14* ATDC
Sixto 87 300D |
#28
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Went to go pick up the new O ring to seal the IP to the crankcase and the wrong part was ordered. Damn it! Now I have to wait till next week. I'm going to throw it in tonight just to see what happens.
If I get the same results what should I do? If the IP is too far advanced wound it knock badly? When I had her at 34 degrees BTDC I heard one knock at start up and then nothing. It sounded quiet and smooth like my 1987 300TD and a 1995 S350D I test drove. It drove great too! It would break the tires loose from a stop! Before it sounded like a OM617 at idle and had a slight shake to her. I may do another compression test, but I haven’t noticed anything different from the engine since I did it last year. Should I get a second opinion on my IP? There is Yankee Diesel in Newtown, CT. Is there anywhere else in the CT area for IP testing / timing? What is the pop pressure the injectors are supposed to be set to? I had all the injectors pop tested and set last year. Could the pop pressure being set incorrectly cause my condition? Lets say that if the injectors are supposed to pop at 120 psi and they are set to pop at 140 psi, that would cause my late condition, right? I see that they all popped low prior to being rebuilt??? Hummmmm! Interesting!
__________________
James Jet Engine Design Engineer with a car problem (I just wish it was curable!) 1990 300D 294K miles 1987 Vette 101K miles (4+3) 2003 HD Electra Glide 65K miles 1992 Ford F150 300 I6 2000 Suzuki TL1000R Human Missle Machine! |
#29
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I just got the IP back from the shop and was told the timing indicator in the IP was off 5 degrees. It was at 12 ATDC and is now set at 17 ATDC.
I installed it last night with the IP lock and the engine at 14 ATDC and the car runs! It does have some klack to her and I have heard quieter MB's. I'm going to pull the injectors and have them re-pop tested and spray pattern checked. My concern is that he retarded the timing in the IP, but for me to get it running before the repair I had to advance it when installing it in the engine??? I bet if I advance IP about 5 degrees she'll smooth right out, but I don't want to. I don't want to touch the IP anymore. Suggestions please and Happy Holidays!
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James Jet Engine Design Engineer with a car problem (I just wish it was curable!) 1990 300D 294K miles 1987 Vette 101K miles (4+3) 2003 HD Electra Glide 65K miles 1992 Ford F150 300 I6 2000 Suzuki TL1000R Human Missle Machine! |
#30
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After my injector pump rebuild on the 300d, it had a noticeably louder sound to it. I think its just the difference between a fresh new pump and an older worn in pump.
Mine quieted up in a month or so.
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VegStew 1983 300SD 70,000 WVO Powered miles 1990 300D In driveway with Head Off - Cracked |
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