The old 1967 200D has been smoking real bad at start-up ran pretty rough and was hard to start. Even when warm I had to glow plug it. It didn't sound right either, as it didn't have that crisp diesel clack at idle. I read all the info I could find on this site and started testing. The engine in the car, I was told was rebuilt with less than 1500 miles on it. I started with the basics and re-adjusted the valves and then checked compression. All cylinders were at 340-350 all with in 10 psi. My next turn was to the IP pump timing. I was trying to use the drip tube method on my last night using my homemade tube from an old fuel line I robbed from a parts car. No matter what I did I could not get the fuel to flow from the pipe in a slight stream when approaching the timing mark I pumped the manual pump to pressurize but no stream ( and yes I verified compression stroke!!. The only thing I could get was one drip when coming close to the mark. so I resorted to the baylor method. I removed the #1 fuel line and dried the fitting out in the IP pump and started to turn the crank. I found the fuel was not welling up until 0 to 5 after TDC. The pump was maxed out in its adjustment. I removed the IP pump and found that the Mark and the missing tooth were off by 3 teeth. I rest the timing and tried the baylor method again and set it till the fuel welled at 24 degrees and locked the pump down.
All I can say is WOW! what a difference no more smoke, It now has power (well tons more than it did as it is a 200D)
and it starts up warm with no problem.

Question Why didn't the drip tube method produce a slight stream instead of one drop. Was I doing something wrong? Is my drip tube too big inside, how big is the real drip tube
I would like to use the drip tube to be accurate. Help and insight is welcome

[Edited by Channel1 on 06-26-2001 at 12:32 PM]

Greetings,

The drip method didn't work in the first test simply because you were off too much from the timing mark. In the second case, had you primed the pump with the manual pump you would have gotten a stream that would have come to pretty much of an abrupt halt with only a drop or two following with about 5-6 seconds a part. This would of been your timed position. I have tried the Baylor method in the past and have gotten good results as well. If it run fines and the smoke has gone South and you haven't suffered performance or increased fuel useage, I'd leave it be and call it good. Mercedes manual shows how to do all the pump timing but neglect to tell you it is much harder to set if the system isn't pressurized as most garages will do, so they don't have to count on gravity fed fuel that may never arrive.

Charles

Glad to hear you got the classic running smoothly. Gotta Love the smell of burning diesel!

Thanks Charles,

I did prime the manual pump, and verified fuel pressure by checking the bleed off on the filter canister. I even resorted to using the air method but that failed too. I held the throttle open and it made no difference. Just as a note, even when I did the baylor method, the fuel welled up very, very little. less than a drop. I just watched carefully for the first sign of fuel, and stopped there.
So is my home-made tube is ok?
all I have to do is:
1 remove the fuel line from number 1 Inj.
2 put my drip line on the IP pump.
3 Pump the manual valve for pressure.
4 Rotate till I get close to 24 deg and watch for fuel to start streaming from the tube.
5 When I get to 24 deg mark the fuel should stop to a drip every 5-6 seconds.
Am I missing anything?
Regards,
Bryan

Greetings Bryan,

I have found that fuel does not flow regardless of the IP setting or degrees on the crank housing. I could only get fuel to flow if I continued to prime the manual primer pump during the whole process and then slowly turn the IP until the flow just stopped and a drop followed after a few seconds. I locked the pump down at that point and called it good. This takes into account that you removed the valve out of the threaded injector pipe, per MB instructions. Using the Baylor method you don't remove any parts out of the injector pipe thus allowing pressur to build up in the pipe and well up in the hollowed area. If you continue to turn over the engine manually, you should get a squirting acion of fuel that takes place out of that pipe. Does that happen for you? Comparing the two methods I found that the Baylor method seems to advance your fuel injection by at least 5 degrees, but the engine seemed to run fine there as well and didn't spew any black cloud as a result. I know others have made this procedure sound easy but I my eyes, it's a pain in the A$$ to do and feel good about having gotten it right. Your drip line must have a curve in it, not straight, and it must face the engine so fuel must travel up hill to drip out.

Charles

"This takes into account that you removed the valve out of the threaded injector pipe, per MB instructions"

I did not remove anything but the line, and then screwed my line on the IP pump. Where is this valve I have to remove, and how do I remove it? I think we have just figured out why I had no fuel flow
I am a person who does things the right way and I want to get it right by using the tube!
Thanks
Bryan

in the 615 616 617.9 engine manual job 07.1-110 checking injection pump for beginning of delivery, it states:

1 clean pump and nuts

2 move preglow switch to run position

3 unscrew injection lines and clamping jaws from cylinder 1&2

4 unscrew pipe connection of first injection pump element, remove compression spring and pressure valve

5 screw back pipe connection and screw on overflow tube

6 rotate crank close to beginning of delivery on compression stroke of first cylinder

7 fill fuel filter with hand pump

8 turn crank until fuel stops dripping one drop should follow after three seconds

9 read beginning of delivery on balancer.

hope this helps

wish my scanner hadn't gone out during the last lighting storm.

Bob D.

Greetings,

H2O pretty well summed up the procedure from the book, but if you are asking where the valve and spring are, that's not mentioned. They are located inside the short pipe fitting that is threaded into the top of your Injection pump housing that the steel injector line is threaded to that goes to the injector. If there is a flange that has two threaded nuts that hold down this whole assembly to the IP, do not remove those nuts, just the pipe. Doing so will cause the factory calibration to be screwed up and the whole pump will have to be removed for recalibration on a bench tested. Some pumps have these hold downs, yours might not. Hope you can get yours timed out to run fine for you.

Charles

Thanks Charles and Bob
I will re-time when I get back from vacation, going to Tobermory, Canada for a week and will post results when I come home.

Have fun and Many "Thank You's" to you both
Bryan