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#1
09-15-2007, 09:44 PM
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ACC1 Climate Control Servo Bypass
First of all, I would like to thank the members of this forum for all the help and advice you've given me so far. My car and I salute you!
Anyways, I have a 1980 300cd with the Chrysler climate control servo. The case is cracked and the servo is done for. The climate panel buttons do nothing, except defrost. I plan on buying an Aluminum bodied servo eventually but I would like heat for now. As for the repair, from what I've read on this forum, this would restore full heat to the system, which is what I want at this point. 1. Drain the coolant from the radiator. (Is this necessary for this fix? 2. At the front and back hoses that are closest to the engine on the right, unscrew the clamps, and fit a ball valve between them. This line runs from the engine block to the AUX water pump, and to the heater core (I think) If the ball valve would be closed, what would happen to the coolant behind it, would it just drain back into the block? 3. At the the hoses that are on the front and back left side, remove them from the servo and connect them with 1/2' copper tubing underneath the servo, or run 1/2' line instead. Am I correct in saying this is the return line? 4. Unhook the temp. sensor lines at the bottom of the servo and connect the two hoses with rubber tubing. 5. Refill the radiator with coolant, start the engine, check for leaks.   Here are some photos of my servo situation. I have read that other people have disconnected hoses at the firewall. Would what I'm planning to do work, or am I missing something? Also, is the hose 1/2 inch ID? Thanks for your support! 
__________________
1980 240d 1999 SL500 
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#3
09-16-2007, 01:15 PM
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1. Drain the coolant from the radiator. (Is this necessary for this fix?
Not really, but if you don't, you'll have coolant all over the place. 2. At the front and back hoses that are closest to the engine on the right, unscrew the clamps, and fit a ball valve between them. This line runs from the engine block to the AUX water pump, and to the heater core (I think) If the ball valve would be closed, what would happen to the coolant behind it, would it just drain back into the block? From my experience, you have the routing correct. With the valve closed, the coolant in the heater core will just stand still for the most part. It won't drain anywhere. I've read concerns that the auxiliary water pump may not like pumping against a closed valve. I don't know if it's truly an issue or not, but unplugging it when the valve is in the off position is a simple matter. 3. At the the hoses that are on the front and back left side, remove them from the servo and connect them with 1/2' copper tubing underneath the servo, or run 1/2' line instead. Am I correct in saying this is the return line? Sounds right to me. I don't know if it's 1/2" line, though. Measuring is easy, however. 4. Unhook the temp. sensor lines at the bottom of the servo and connect the two hoses with rubber tubing. I hate vacuum switches because of this idiotic Chrysler design. I believe that by bypassing the switch and running the two lines together, it will allow the fan to run regardless of engine operating pressure, because the vacuum circuit will always be active, just like when the coolant is at proper operating temperature. I have not confirmed this, but it seems logical. 5. Refill the radiator with coolant, start the engine, check for leaks. No-brainer. It's amazing how many people don't check for leaks, though. Those quick-lube guys are famous for it. 
__________________
- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread
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#5
09-16-2007, 04:23 PM
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I'll be interested to see them. While I've disassembled my system and studied it, I have yet to actually buy or install any of the parts to bypass the evil servo. It's on my list of things to do in the next month.
__________________
- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread
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#7
09-16-2007, 11:19 PM
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The 1/2 inch and the 3/4 inch lines didn't fit the heater hoses, that's what I get for going to AutoZoo for parts. That and a huge puddle of antifreeze on the ground because I thought draining the radiator was enough
 .If there's anything this car teaches me, it's that only the correct parts must be used... Which hoses are necessary to connect the metal return line to metal return line, and the feed line from the AUX pump to the other metal feed line?
__________________
1980 240d 1999 SL500
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#9
09-18-2007, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
The car is an hour and a half away, but I think I'll be going back down on Wednesday. Sorry I can't lend assistance sooner.
__________________
- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread
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