I noticed in the second picture it appears the vacuum hoses aren't configured properly for the overboost protection. While the tube going from the top of the switchover valve to the ALDA unit is correct, the bottom tube looks like it goes nowhere near the charge air intake, next to the overboost sensor.

I do see you having tubing for a boost guage, and it is appropriately connected to the threaded hole forward of the boost sensor. Does the bottom tube from the switchover valve somehow tie into that sensor? My guess is it shouldn't and should be connected back to the charge air intake to the rear of the overboost sensor.

If it is a boost guage, what numbers show up for boost when you hit ~2200 RPM? You should see the needle move considerably once you accelerate and hit those RPMs, but stay at some level during cruising speeds.

I can't say enough how important it is the overboost is connected properly. If it's not working, the car is a boat anchor, lucky to reach 55 on the freeway. I've done that a couple of times myself, and each time I restored the proper configuration, the car seemed like a rocket after.

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Casey Cooper
"From a long line of Mercedes ownership"

'86 300SDL 250K miles (Gone, but not forgotten); best diesel I have ever driven, too bad about the Achilles heel.

'81 240D 370K miles (Sold to my brother after 9 years and 150K miles of reliable driving!)

[Five other Mercedes in family clipped for less length.]

The top ties into the ALDA like you said, and the bottom tube ties into a nipple underneath the overboost sensor.

I usually see 5 psi at mid throttle and 10-15 psi at full. I can hear the turbo spoil loud if stomped and let off nice too. Is it bad to give these things full throttle alot? I've seen alot of debates on whether to drive slow or stomp them.

What is the best way to test the trans. governor?

Thanks again for the replys!

I really need to know if there's a way to test the transmission governor or how to test if the valve body is sticking.

Also I realized my kickdown switch might not be working, but I don't know what it really does so there's no way of telling. It isn't stuck...

The air filter I use isn't K&N, I saw threads on it, but I've also been told that the air filter I use, shouldn't be on a diesel due to the constant compression. I'll be switching it back this weekend, with pics.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

Tire guide rods are going bad. Realized it after I read a post here about it. MB wants $133 a kit, running out of money to invest. Love the car, but am beggining to wonder if it's worth investing into.

Any opinions on whether it's worth keeping? What are the most common things that go wrong with these cars? How can they be prevented?

Thank you to everyone who posts!

These vehicles are expensive. No doubt about it. You cannot maintain such a vehicle on a shoestring budget. Whether it's worth it to you is a personal choice. However, they typically consume $1000. per year in parts. Some of us have spent considerably more..........$2500. per year is not out of the question. If you have the work done by a mechanic, then just double these figures. You can see that it's definitely not worthwhile at that point.

Will I ever get to a point where I can just enjoy driving and not constantly worrying about "what next?"

I don't worry about "what next"..........but, I do know that it's coming.

Last week, the SDL developed a horrible racket that appears to be tensioner related. I drove it up to CT with the noise..........and it proceeded to worsen. Had to make it back in the rain.........took the ferry..........and prayed that it made the last 15 miles...........the noise was horrendous.

It's in the garage awaiting parts.........hopefully, it's just the tensioner.........but, in reality, I'm not positive of what it is...........although it's certainly in the group that runs with with the belt.

It also broke a #6 fuel line on a recent trip to Raleigh...........had to drive it on five for 150 miles...............

I don't worry about "what's next"..........but, it's definitely a bit of a primadonna...............the 617 powered SD is far more reliable.

Brian, exactly how does one break a fuel line on a trip? You must have one heavy foot.......

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

The lines on the six cylinder are fairly small and the engine vibrations cause problems for them over time. #6 cracked beneath the retaining nut that holds it to the IP. It's got nothing to do with my foot..........LOL.

Another example of the durability of the OM617........never crack one of those lines.........

So did it just spew fuel for 400 miles? What do you do in that situation?

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

It occurred about 75 miles from Raleigh. Leaking fuel from the cracked line the entire time. Had my favorite indy order the part and he installed it two days later. Drove a total of 150 miles over three days without that cylinder. Wasn't much fun........stayed below 2400 rpm and out of boost the entire time.

Aaah, sounds like the 1987 version of the "limp home" mode.

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

I cracked a fuel line on my car and caused the IP to leak very badly, just by removing the ALDA unit. I had the o-rings under the IP replaced and the ALDA tweaked with and put back on.

What's the worst that could happen by waiting to replace the guide rod mounts and steadily driving?

I'm also curious what symptons are caused by a bad transmission governor or a sticking valve body, and what solutions are available?

Thank you to everyone for ALL replys!!!