Well - I have been replacing all front suspension in my W123 1983 300D Turbo - been ... interesting so far, but that is another story. how do one tell when the shocks need replacement? I push down on the front part of the car and it bouces up and down several times. I am thinking of replacing them - not sure how difficult of a job this is. seen some threads on it - perhaps I should be replacing other parts as well since I am there...

I have also replaced the engine mounts (not the transmission mount yet though! my engine still rocks like trampoline after driving for a bit - assuming that is the culprit). not sure how much of a job it is to replace the tranny mount either. but I am going for it!

They aren't hard to replace, took me less than an hour per side. And if the car bounces like that then they are shot. I can barely make mine move let alone bounce, with my new Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks. Always use Bilstein.

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Agreed, very simlpe. Biggest problem is gaining access to the lower bolts, you must remove the wheel, and use a thin walled 12 point 10mm socket. All the Bilstiens I've replaced have come with said socket. Some folks will use the heavy duty shocks up front, and regulars on the rear. As for your rough idle, if this happens after warming up, and smooths out above 1000 rpm, you may be looking at a Rack Damper bolt issue. It can be adjusted, yet many die of fatigue. It is located on the lower rear of the Injection Pump, just in front of the oil filter canister. Do this with engine at operating temp, and idling. You loosen the 14mm lock nut, and back out the 12mm bolt till smooth. If you get a new bolt, you must use the lock nut and "o" ring from your current one, note the location of the latter for proper installation on new bolt.

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83 SD

84 CD

concerning the Rack Damper bolt - this seems very straight forward and easy to do. What exactly is this doing - is this for my engine boucing around like a bowl of jello?

it originally was shaking worse - loud, sharp and rough. I replaced the engine mounts (needed them big time) I have the transmission mount but have not installed it as of yet. I am assuming (I know about assuming ) that is the issue - I am interested in the Rack Damper bolt though - could it be both?

RE shocks. If the shocks rebound at all IMO then you should replace them.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
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#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

anybody know where I can get a good cheap pair of Bilsteins? sounds like the way to go - - - >

so much done - yet so much more to be - >

slowly and surely - - >

74.00 for fronts
68.25 for rears

http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com

I would call Phil with Fastlane first, though. Click on the link at the top of this page that says "Buy Parts." Extremely helpful, he is.

yeah... I guess the link at the top of the page that says 'buy parts' is pretty straight forward huh? I knew that -

New engine mounts should take care of the shake, if they were worn out. Transmission mount, I think would not result in the shakes you describe. Adjust the RD bolt, if that doesn't help, replace.

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83 SD

84 CD

alright - so I went in and tried to find the Rack Damper bolt - is this it?


these 2 bolts are larger than 14mm and 12mm retrospectively, which is what gave me pause.

That's how you tell. It should only bounce once and ~ a half.

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1984 300TD

No, that's a fuel banjo bolt, on the side of the I.P. Look below that rear most round thing (Vacuum Control Valve) with the rubber hose coming out of the top. It's under there, kinda low on the rear. Your hand will get a bit warm when you do this procedure.
Looks like you could stand to clean things up a bit, to let you see if there are other problems. You may want to replace your fuel filters. A purge won't hurt, do that before replacing filters. Your primary, the clear one connected to the primer pump, is covered with oil to the point you can't tell if it needs replacing.
That bolt helps smooth out fuel flucuations, resulting in a normal idle.

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83 SD

84 CD

I believe I found it - the outer bolt is 14mm and assume the smaller one is 12mm (will actually adjust tomorrow after the big alignment!



is this it?? thanks!
not a lot of room to work down in there.

Please don't mind the messy engine area - been working on it for a few days with hood open - biggest problem is a busted oil cooler - leaks all over the engine and everything when driving - everything is soaked with oil.

They are pretty expensive new and even refurbed - I was lucky - found a used one in a junk yard - pristine! then when I tried to get the bolt off with the hose, the bolt stripped - still have the new oil cooler - think I will try to weld it on - then everything will be cleaned and shiny! someday... someday...

That's it, good luck. Remember to note the "o" ring orientation if replacing, gave me a head ache!

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83 SD

84 CD