Valve adjustment woes - am I stupid? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DeliveryValve · #16 10-04-2007, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwoloz

I'm afraid of starting the engine with the key. Mine will start without glow

I only use the bump start method. Just crack open the all lines to the injectors and fuel will never make it to the cylinders which will not make the engine start.

bustedbenz · #17 10-04-2007, 09:30 PM

Use something (I use my dad's finger, you may need to use duct tape or something) to hold the red stop lever down. That way you can crank with the key in the switch all you want to and it'll never fire.

DeliveryValve · #18 10-04-2007, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustedbenz

Use something (I use my dad's finger, you may need to use duct tape or something) to hold the red stop lever down. That way you can crank with the key in the switch all you want to and it'll never fire.

The red lever is on the cam cover. While doing the valve adjustment, the cam cover is removed so there is no red lever to hold down. But you can push down the on linkage that attaches to it and have the same results.

bustedbenz · #19 10-04-2007, 09:45 PM

Sorry, I forgot which engine we were talking about

The 603 has the lever on the IP. Oops.

DieselAddict · #20 10-05-2007, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwoloz

If I do take off the fan and shroud then how exactly am I going to know when the cam lobes are in the right position from under the car on my back?

Once you take out the fan you can rotate the engine from above using the crank! That's how I used to do it and I don't know of an easier way.

toomany MBZ · #21 10-05-2007, 05:05 PM

I'm in the camp of a remote starter switch, available at auto part stores. On the 240 I used to own, you had to attach one alligator clip on the starter terminal #30 and #50, the drawing shows a large nut, and a philips screw.

Cervan · #22 10-05-2007, 07:45 PM

lol... all you need to make a bump starter switch are two leads, one thats about fourteen gauge with a small eyelet on the end, and one thats about twelve gauge leading to the larger eyelet and putting them together with a switch, its that simple.

Stevo · #23 10-05-2007, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

All you've got to do is push down on the power steering belt with your left hand as you turn the power steering pulley with the right. You just have to provide enough tension on the belt to stop it from slipping. It's easy. (unless you have a manual transmission and forget to take it out of gear)

I know its a little harder too do with the 5 cylinder engines than with my 616s but Kerrys right, just tension the steering pump belt, you dont have to disassemble anything.

dwoloz · #24 10-05-2007, 08:43 PM

Thanks everyone, I got it!

Ended up attaching an alligator clip to the starter signal wire then tapping that wire against the battery to bump the engine forward

Adjusted all the valves and damn they were tight, every one of them was off, was definitely due.

Cervan · #25 10-05-2007, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwoloz

Thanks everyone, I got it!

Ended up attaching an alligator clip to the starter signal wire then tapping that wire against the battery to bump the engine forward

Adjusted all the valves and damn they were tight, every one of them was off, was definitely due.

There ya go.

dwoloz · #26 10-05-2007, 11:09 PM

Forgot to also mention, I used just two standard 14mm wrenches unbent and although it would've been much easier with bent ones, I accomplished it.
I found that even more handy than the bent wrenches would've been the other wrench supplied in the Mercedes toolkit to hold the large nut type thing on top of the spring. On some valves, this didn't move at all despite me turning the locknut above but on one particular valve, this thing kept on wanting to move and wasn't letting me adjust the valve at all. I Macgyvered my way to get it to stay but it was a pain and the tool would've been useful

tobybul · #27 10-06-2007, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwoloz

Wait...don't answer that

What I would like answered though, is why am I having difficulty getting the camshaft to turn when turning the 22mm power steering bolt clockwise?
The bolt takes a good amount of force to get the pulley to move at all but the little bit it does move doesn't seem to move the cams at all

What am I doing wrong here?

I didn't read all the posts but have you ever thought about getting a remote switch and use the starter to turn the engine when adj valves? AZ sells the switch for about $13. I can turn my cam at the pwr steering bolt also but I found the remote sw to be less work. There are terminals just above the passenger wheel well for this purpose to connect the sw on to. Its mentioned in the FSM.