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  #1  
Old 10-04-2007, 10:41 PM
sailor15015's Avatar
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Weird R4 Compressor Behavior

I have a rebuilt R4 compressor that I installed in my r12 system almost two full years ago now and it suddenly quit working this week. The odd part is, though, is the way that it quit working. The clutch and everything still engages like its supposed to but it doesn't turn the inner workings of the compressor. I hooked up my gauges and both high and low sides stay in equilibrium, showing that the insides of the compressor aren't turning. Is there maybe some nut or bolt on the face of the clutch that could have come loose? The only indication of anything out of the ordinary was that occasionally the compressor would cycle really quickly, like five times a second. It didn't make any "rock tumbler" noises or give any other indications that it was about to fail. Thanks in advance.

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1984 300D 225K
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  #2  
Old 10-04-2007, 10:45 PM
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the reed valves could have failed... that would cause equilibrium without seizing.
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2007, 12:45 PM
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Well I guess my compressor is pretty much toast, which sucks because it was working so well right up until it quit. I've come across a new compressor that's lacking a clutch. Is it hard to swap a clutch on these compressors? Is it just a simple bolt or two or is it a major job requiring special tools? This compressor is cheap and I'd like to snag it if swapping the clutch is no big deal.
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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo
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  #4  
Old 10-15-2007, 12:49 PM
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The clutch is pressed on.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

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  #5  
Old 10-15-2007, 12:50 PM
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Really? I thought it was bolted. Dang.
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1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo
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  #6  
Old 10-15-2007, 12:54 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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It's usually held on with a bolt as well. Be careful though, as I have seen the clutch sell for the same price as a compressor w/a clutch. Two years is a good life for the R4.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #7  
Old 10-15-2007, 01:04 PM
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Thanks. Now that I think about it, I have a junked compressor that came with my wrecked car. I'll have to see how hard it is to get a clutch off. Could I expect a new compressor to last longer than two years? This one was a rebuilt. I'd hope to get longer out of a new one but if not then I'll just go with a rebuilt again.
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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo
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  #8  
Old 10-15-2007, 01:54 PM
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"Rebuilt" is a generic term, often over-used... Is a replaced set of seals considered 'rebuilt', or is the addition of seals & new bearings considered 'rebuilt' or is every wearable item dimensionally checked or qualified
for reuse in the rebuild, or ???

This is why I'd recommend ONLY new R4 compressors... might cost you a bit more on the frontend, but compare it to the cost of replacing "rebuilt" units every few years. My original R4 compressor in my '84 123 car lasted 21 years on it's original R12 charge -

bnc
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  #9  
Old 10-15-2007, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor15015 View Post
Could I expect a new compressor to last longer than two years?
My original R-4 lasted 24 years, six of those years pumping R-134a. And it was still working when I replaced it with a new one last year concurrent with a "conversion" back to R-12.
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  #10  
Old 10-15-2007, 05:49 PM
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didget69, (or other forum folks)

I'm planning on two R-4 R&Rs for the 85's. Any tips on good sources for new? Noted in some web searches this is a Frigidaire unit and comes two ways, one with "stepped" ports. Which is the best fit for the 85 300D?

Thanks.
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  #11  
Old 10-15-2007, 07:53 PM
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The stepped ports are best avoided, if possible. I was unable to find a new R-4 that used the old seals, however.

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