best price on front end rebuild kit - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

winmutt · #1 10-16-2007, 07:08 PM

I suggest Bilstein HD's. I haven't had the chance to compare them to new Comforts but the HDs have made for a very smooth ride in my car.

123Guy · #2 10-18-2007, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

I suggest Bilstein HD's. I haven't had the chance to compare them to new Comforts but the HDs have made for a very smooth ride in my car.

I have HD's on my coupe and Comforts on my wife's 300SD. Each has it's purpose.

winmutt · #3 10-18-2007, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123Guy

I have HD's on my coupe and Comforts on my wife's 300SD. Each has it's purpose.

To bad they arent both 123's. I would really be interested in the diference on the same chassis atleast, if not same model or car.

lutzTD · #4 10-18-2007, 09:03 PM

passenger side most of the way off. no spring compressor required. I put a jack under the spindle, removed the shock top bolt, removed the tie rod and swung it forward, removed the rear bottom link, pop the upper ball joint off, then lower the jack slowly and the spring falls out, I will install it in reverse order, the spring catches real nice on the hump in the bottom spring plate. I have also removed the lower control arm bush. total so far, 1.5 hours

winmutt · #5 10-19-2007, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

passenger side most of the way off. no spring compressor required. I put a jack under the spindle, removed the shock top bolt, removed the tie rod and swung it forward, removed the rear bottom link, pop the upper ball joint off, then lower the jack slowly and the spring falls out, I will install it in reverse order, the spring catches real nice on the hump in the bottom spring plate. I have also removed the lower control arm bush. total so far, 1.5 hours

You are insane.

vstech · #6 10-19-2007, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

passenger side most of the way off. no spring compressor required. I put a jack under the spindle, removed the shock top bolt, removed the tie rod and swung it forward, removed the rear bottom link, pop the upper ball joint off, then lower the jack slowly and the spring falls out, I will install it in reverse order, the spring catches real nice on the hump in the bottom spring plate. I have also removed the lower control arm bush. total so far, 1.5 hours

This is the method I have used for 25 years changing control arms... as long as you can lift the vehicle up high enough to allow for the jack to fit under the control arm, you are golden... that would be about 24" above the ground with a 123/126... most jack stands are only 18" max. if you have the 12 ton stands, and a block of wood to raise the car higher than the 19" of most floor jacks, this works well.
be sure to remove the upper nut from the shock absorber first. leave the lower bolts connected to be a bit safer...

winmutt · #7 10-17-2007, 10:30 AM

Ya. I don't know what you were thinking about. 20 year old cars are always going to need new bushings. joints etc. It is one of the major components that I check out when doing a PPI. I figure it just comes with the territory. Think of it this way, imagine how smooth it will be with a new front end! It will be like new! I got my tires from discounttire direct on ebay for $268 for all 4 shipped. A pretty good deal for Falken Ziex 235/60/15. I got them locally installed and balanced and still paid less than I would have out the door from their retail stores on some crappy kumhos.