Winterizing your 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

hardyboy1704 · #1 10-19-2007, 12:05 PM

Does anyone know of any good websites or forum posts that talk about how to prepare your MB 300D for the winter?

I am new to Omaha, NE and I have heard it gets pretty cold here, and that makes me think my car is going to have a helluva time in starting. Any suggestions?

PS--I live at an apt right now and I have no means to "plug" my car in to heat the block up. Am I screwed?

thanks for the help

gabriel

pawoSD · #2 10-19-2007, 12:08 PM

If your fuel filters are good (replace them every year or two) valves are adjusted, battery/starter are in good shape, and the engine is in good shape (compressionwise) etc....there is no reason it shouldn't start down to -10F unplugged. If any of these things are not maintained well, then you could have some issues. What is the coldest temp you're likely to see there? Here in MI I have started my car as low as -12F before....UNplugged. It wasn't easy but it did it.

Oh, and make sure you have a good set of glowplugs on it too.

And when its super cold, let it glow a good 20-30 seconds before cranking.

Super cold out start procedure: (when its below 10F)

1. Glow for 20-30 seconds (its still glowing for up to 40 seconds even after the light goes out)
2. Begin cranking but do not press the throttle pedal at all.
3. When it begins to fire, give it slight amount of throttle.
4. Once it has caught and began running, give it enough throttle to keep it around 1000rpm for maybe 30-40 seconds, this will allow it to keep running when you let off the pedal.

You're set! Drive away!

Maxbumpo · #3 10-19-2007, 12:17 PM

Gabriel,

What year 300D do you have?

To add to the previous list,
1) Dewater your fuel tank with an appropriate additive to sequester the water into the fuel where it can be burned
2) Make sure all your glow plugs are working
3) Switch to a full synthetic oil (make sure it is Diesel rated) like Mobil 1 or Amsoil, which will allow engine to spin faster in cold weather and extend lowest start temp down another 10 deg F or so.
4) Read/understand the cold start procedure in your owner's manual!

MattBelliveau · #4 10-19-2007, 12:19 PM

Also, switch to a lighter, winter weight oil (5w40).

Maxbumpo · #5 10-19-2007, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Super cold out start procedure: (when its below 10F)

1. Glow for 20-30 seconds (its still glowing for up to 40 seconds even after the light goes out)
2. Begin cranking but do not press the throttle pedal at all.
3. When it begins to fire, give it slight amount of throttle.
4. Once it has caught and began running, give it enough throttle to keep it around 1000rpm for maybe 30-40 seconds, this will allow it to keep running when you let off the pedal.

This procedure is incorrect for an OM61x! Read your manual - it is in there....

Basically: Glow (extended and even repeat glow is good idea), hold accel. pedal to floor, engage starter and crank engine until it is firing on all cylinders and over-runs the starter. Only release the starter when engine speed exceeds starter speed, and don't let off the throttle until RPM is above a high idle speed, and then release slowly so the engine doesn't die.

pawoSD · #6 10-19-2007, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

This procedure is incorrect for an OM61x! Read your manual - it is in there....

Basically: Glow (extended and even repeat glow is good idea), hold accel. pedal to floor, engage starter and crank engine until it is firing on all cylinders and over-runs the starter. Only release the starter when engine speed exceeds starter speed, and don't let off the throttle until RPM is above a high idle speed, and then release slowly so the engine doesn't die.

I know what it says in the manual....however, I have had much better success using my new method. Flooring it and cranking allows too much fuel into the cylinders when its real cold, thus preventing enough heat/compression to fire off. The general result when using the MB method is that it begins firing, then slows down and stops firing (fuel in cylinders cooling them back off), then your battery dies. I failed to start my car at least 4 times with the method in the manual, but using my method I have yet to have a problem.

I forgot about the lighter weight oil....I just use that weight year round.

Hatterasguy · #7 10-19-2007, 02:14 PM

I never gained anything by flooring it while trying to start my 617. Just opens up the rack.

Apply throttle as needed.

Unless you have a 603 than just turn the key and the computer will keep it idleing fine.

Do a search tons of posts on this topic in the past.

#8 10-19-2007, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

I never gained anything by flooring it while trying to start my 617. Just opens up the rack.

Apply throttle as needed.

Mine always starts best without touching the throttle until after it catches, especially in very cold weather.

pawoSD · #9 10-19-2007, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

Mine always starts best without touching the throttle until after it catches, especially in very cold weather.

Exactly.

Cervan · #10 10-19-2007, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

I know what it says in the manual....however, I have had much better success using my new method. Flooring it and cranking allows too much fuel into the cylinders when its real cold, thus preventing enough heat/compression to fire off. The general result when using the MB method is that it begins firing, then slows down and stops firing (fuel in cylinders cooling them back off), then your battery dies. I failed to start my car at least 4 times with the method in the manual, but using my method I have yet to have a problem.

I forgot about the lighter weight oil....I just use that weight year round.

the first time you start is the best chance you have. i would suggest putting as much fuel into the cylinders to get it to fire the first time. After the first ten seconds or so. the walls of the precombustion chambers is washed with cold diesel. your dead in the water.

pawoSD · #11 10-19-2007, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cervan

the first time you start is the best chance you have. i would suggest putting as much fuel into the cylinders to get it to fire the first time. After the first ten seconds or so. the walls of the precombustion chambers is washed with cold diesel. your dead in the water.

When its that cold what you need is hot air in the cylinders from compression, not as much fuel as possible. Cranking for a bit and adding little to no fuel allows the cylinders to get some heat going and fire a bit on the idle fuel being injected, once it catches, the heat level goes up rapidly, and you can then give it more fuel to get going. Lots of fuel right away keeps the cylinders freezing cold, and also washes oil off the cylinder walls, causing lower compression. = no start

Liquid fuel absorbs a LOT of heat....so you want as little as possible those first seconds of cranking....

Paul W · #12 10-19-2007, 09:14 PM

Gabriel
Welcome to Omaha. I live in Omaha and drive a 87 300d. I have only driven it about 100 miles and haven't even put diesel in it yet. This is the first year that I have had it, so I have never driven in the winter before.

It gets very cold here. Last winter the temps were below freezing a lot. The news had story after story of the diesel gelling in the school buses and screwing up the filters and parents were out raged that their poor little kid had to stand on the corner and freeze. I have also heard of other people who have diesels that have had there systems gel up. From my limited understanding there are a couple different kinds of diesel you can get from the pumps. If you get the right kind you are fine. If you don't you will have to add some "stuff" to it. I say stuff because I am not sure what it is you have add to keep it from gelling. A friend was going to give me some pointers next time I see him.

From the other posts I see there is some confusion as to how to start it when it is cold. I can't add anything to that other than try both ways and see what works. When it gets real cold you had better hope you get it right before your battery dies. It is a ***** working on a car when it is -20 with the great winds we get here. You have about 2 minutes before you can't feel your fingers any more.

Last thing good antifreeze or you are screwed.

Hatterasguy · #13 10-19-2007, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

Mine always starts best without touching the throttle until after it catches, especially in very cold weather.

Yeah thats what I noticed. Just crank it until it starts to fire, than bring the RPM's up to a grand or so. That will clear it out and keep it running.

When its really, really cold usualy you only get one shot.

pawoSD · #14 10-20-2007, 01:50 AM

Its not always "until the battery dies" I knew I had lost the battle about half way one of the times I failed. It was cranking at normal speed, started firing, then stopped firing, and was still cranking at normal speed. I waited a minute, glowed, tried again, no luck....just rotated with no firing, and died.

Below 5-10F its one shot. This winter I will be heading into with freshly adjusted valves, a MB battery

, good glowplugs, and Mobil 1 5w40 in the sump. I doubt I'll have any issues. I only did once last winter, and that was when it was -12F outside and I forgot to plug it in, and had a sub-par battery.

If you're by an outlet, a quick and easy way for a sure start is to turbo-boost the starter.

Buy one of those (good quality) charger/starter units. One with the 100Amp Start Capacity. Clip to battery, give it the 20A charge cycle for 5 mins or so, then flip it to 100A start mode, quick jump in the car, give a 5-7 second glow, and crank. It will turn over like Zeus is feeding the starter.

I started mine on the -12F day in 3 seconds with this setup. It was so cold that the hot water I poured on the engine to try and help it, froze in about 10 seconds.

But the Mega starter unit did it. Cranks about 30% faster than on battery alone. (its getting a solid 14-15 volts and unlimited juice from the thing...) I recommend it. This winter if I should have any super cold days I am not even going to mess around, I'll whip that thing out right away.

Cervan · #15 10-20-2007, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Its not always "until the battery dies" I knew I had lost the battle about half way one of the times I failed. It was cranking at normal speed, started firing, then stopped firing, and was still cranking at normal speed. I waited a minute, glowed, tried again, no luck....just rotated with no firing, and died.

Below 5-10F its one shot. This winter I will be heading into with freshly adjusted valves, a MB battery

, good glowplugs, and Mobil 1 5w40 in the sump. I doubt I'll have any issues. I only did once last winter, and that was when it was -12F outside and I forgot to plug it in, and had a sub-par battery.

If you're by an outlet, a quick and easy way for a sure start is to turbo-boost the starter.

Buy one of those (good quality) charger/starter units. One with the 100Amp Start Capacity. Clip to battery, give it the 20A charge cycle for 5 mins or so, then flip it to 100A start mode, quick jump in the car, give a 5-7 second glow, and crank. It will turn over like Zeus is feeding the starter.

I started mine on the -12F day in 3 seconds with this setup. It was so cold that the hot water I poured on the engine to try and help it, froze in about 10 seconds.

But the Mega starter unit did it. Cranks about 30% faster than on battery alone. (its getting a solid 14-15 volts and unlimited juice from the thing...) I recommend it. This winter if I should have any super cold days I am not even going to mess around, I'll whip that thing out right away.

Hm, this reminds me doesnt the injection pump automatically go to full fuel when starting? the pedal doesnt really matter until the engine actually starts to catch. (im going off of memory here so dont kill me!) Bah, i wouldnt even mess with a 12 volt system i would throw a 24 volt starter on there and two deep cell batteries. it would crank that engine so fast you could drive on the starter turning alone! Not only that but the durability of the entire system would be doubled.

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