A few questions on the 190D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

NickCox · #1 10-30-2007, 09:28 PM

In the first two pictures, there is a brown thing that holds the timing chain in line. I can't get, or don't know how to get the bolt out. I think i need to

In the third picture, I have taken the camshaft bolt out and tied welding wire to keep it timed, do I just take the sprocket off from there?

The head bolts are 8mm 12 point, but i only can find 8mm 6 point Where might I find this part?

On the IP delivery valves: I bought 4 new o-rings, but some one said I need some copper washers along with that, Is that true?

Well thanks for everyones help I just want to be sure i do every semi right, I don't want to tell my mom (i no it sounds lame) that my car wont be leaving the garage, be cause its broken

Also I just figured out something is wrong with my generation(not all of them, probably my area): Laziness.
car break, dad's there to fix it. Stupid video games

NickCox · #2 11-01-2007, 09:05 PM

Do I need to buy that $40 socket to remove the delivery valve. I have a feeling that I do, but I was just wondering if anyone has done it differently.

thanks

klaus kallas · #3 11-01-2007, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickCox

In the first two pictures, there is a brown thing that holds the timing chain in line. I can't get, or don't know how to get the bolt out. I think i need to

In the third picture, I have taken the camshaft bolt out and tied welding wire to keep it timed, do I just take the sprocket off from there?

The head bolts are 8mm 12 point, but i only can find 8mm 6 point Where might I find this part?

On the IP delivery valves: I bought 4 new o-rings, but some one said I need some copper washers along with that, Is that true

Hey Nick,

The slide bolt holding the timing chain guide is threaded internally. You should be able to find a small bolt to thread in there and (since it looks to be pretty far out already) pry it out or use a small slide hammer to pull it towards the front of the car. The chain guide, as I recall, can stay in place after that bolt is removed.

Assuming you keep some tension on the chain, you should be able to take off the sprocket. Make a few orientation marks just for back up!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=126728

You can rent a delivery valve splined socket at the above link. If you can find member "billybob", he had one I borrowed as well. As for the copper washers, I wouldn't bother. Every one I've ever removed looked like new. The o-rings are the parts that crap out.

NAPA carries a socket that will fit the head bolts. They usually have it in stock at their stores. If you can't find it, and you have a week or so to wait, I can let you use the one I have.

As always, good luck!

Klaus

NickCox · #4 11-03-2007, 03:11 PM

I could not under stand what klaus kallas said about how to remove it. I must be a little brain dead. In the picture the bolt has not moved, and is in the same spot since i have taken the belt tensioner spring off. I have tried to turn it out with a vice grip with not progress.

Thanks

tuxbeej · #5 11-04-2007, 01:49 PM

I noticed way back in this thread that you mentioned that your tach stops working from time to time. I'm assuming the SRS light also comes on too?

If so, chances are good that it's your overvoltage protection relay (OVP relay). I was having the same problems with my 190D 2.5. The recommendation I see on the forum is to change its fuses, or just replace the OVP relay with a new one. I got an aftermarket relay for about $70 CAD from an online store - if you look around, you'll find one for about that much.

Apparently, you can also keep your old one and repair it, depending on how much you like to solder.

To find this relay, you'll have to look behind (ie. remove) the black plastic cover between your battery and the firewall. Look for a silver box taller than it is wide, with a translucent red or clear top. There should be a fuse under that cover.

As I understand it, this relay "conditions" the power that goes to other electronic parts in your engine (such as your fuel pump relay). It's a cheap part that prevents more expensive parts from getting fried by overvoltage. You can drive around without an OVP plugged in, but I'm pretty sure you risk hurting other components. I'm not really an expert on MB electrical, so you may want to look for a second opinion.

Good luck with the car!