Wagon Vacuum Resevoir - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TchTchr · #1 10-28-2007, 12:22 PM

Hello all,

Does anyone know how to get to the line going into the vacuum resevoir on a '81 wagon? My locks are acting up and after much trouble shooting I think the line seal to the resevoir may be leaking. I think I've tried everything else. The resevoir is located behind the fuel tank. I searched the forum and didn't find anything. I thought I would ask before I started tearing anything up. Also, is there an adjustment for the master switch in the driver's side door? I replaced it and wondered if moving it back and forth a little might affect the locks.

Thanks,
Brad

Chad300tdt · #2 10-28-2007, 01:23 PM

You can get to the vacuum line on the reservoir by lifting the floor in the hatch. It's right in the rear hatch on the passenger side under the floor and the rubber mat. It takes MANY pumps on the MityVac to load it and test.

Did you test the actuator lines to the hatch actuator or gas door actuator? They are common leak points for the wagons.

I'm not aware of any adjustments that can be made to the switch. AFAIK if you stop all the leaks, it will work properly.

Also, if your vacuum connectors look cracked, you should replace them. I replaced all the vacuum connectors and dashpots in my car and repaired the hatch actuator and now my locks hold vacuum for days.

Good Luck.

TchTchr · #3 10-28-2007, 01:41 PM

I've replaced all possible hose connections, master switch and yellow pod in engine bay. Everything seems to be holding vacuum well. After it sets for maybe 15 minutes, it takes a few miles before the locks will work again while driving. I have read pump vacuum should be 22hg. I have 20. Will this make a big difference?

Thanks

Chad300tdt · #4 10-28-2007, 02:03 PM

It shouldn't because the dashpots reduce that anyway. You must have a slow leak in an actuator cap. You could load a vacuum on each actuactor and leave it for 15 minutes to see which one is the culprit.

kerry · #5 10-28-2007, 02:41 PM

Of all the vacuum problem threads I've read on here, I've never read one that traced the leak back to a bad vacuum reservoir. Anyone else remember seeing this problem before?

Chad300tdt · #6 10-28-2007, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Of all the vacuum problem threads I've read on here, I've never read one that traced the leak back to a bad vacuum reservoir. Anyone else remember seeing this problem before?

I never have, but the vacuum connectors right off the reservoir were bad on mine. If TchTchr didn't know how to get to the lines on the reservoir, those connectors may be the leak source.

pizzachef · #7 10-28-2007, 03:39 PM

2 questions:
1) what kind of hose should i look for to replace the vacuum connections?
2) can I buy new rubber boots for the vacuum elements in the doors?

Sbean · #8 10-28-2007, 04:09 PM

If you're as cheap as I am, try repairing leaky rubber pods using glue sold for repairing wet suits, and maybe scraps of rubber gloves. I have had some success with this on my '80 300 TDs. Steve

TchTchr · #9 10-28-2007, 04:32 PM

Resevoir checked out ok. Going to take each door panel off this week to check each individual actuator.

Chad300tdt · #10 10-28-2007, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sbean

If you're as cheap as I am, try repairing leaky rubber pods using glue sold for repairing wet suits, and maybe scraps of rubber gloves. I have had some success with this on my '80 300 TDs. Steve

I fixed mine by cutting the little finger off a latex glove and glueing it over the old cap. I used the MityVac to apply vacuum to hold it all together while it cured. Free fixes are definitley more satisfying.

I've read that you can get the replacement caps from a Bosch dealer. There's a thread somewhere with the part number.

I got the vacuum connectors and the vacuum hose in bulk from *************** but I'm pretty sure that Fastlane has them too.

Chad300tdt · #11 10-28-2007, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TchTchr

Resevoir checked out ok. Going to take each door panel off this week to check each individual actuator.

You can check them without taking the panels off. Just access the hoses under the carpets in the front foot areas. The lines run under a black plastic cover along the outside edge.

pizzachef · #12 10-29-2007, 01:46 PM

Here's an excellent guide:
http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2755

Chad300tdt · #13 10-29-2007, 02:04 PM

I found the part number for the replacement actuator caps.

3 340 522 025 850

I haven't tried to get any myself, but heard they can be purchased through a Bosch Dealer.

pizzachef's link is an excellent DIY thread. While you're there check out the other DIY's. Andrew has written a bunch of good stuff for 123s, including some great info on SLS troubleshooting.

pizzachef · #14 10-30-2007, 09:28 AM

Thanks Chad, I'll put that in the file, I might try your rubber glove trick first...I think a couple of my vacuum elements leak. I lose vacuum when unlocked, but locked will hold it for a few days.

I was just in your neighborhood the other day! I was in Wayne visiting my uncle and we drove to Doylestown to Bucks County Outfitters, they had a good deal on Vasque hiking boots.

Chad300tdt · #15 10-30-2007, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pizzachef

Thanks Chad, I'll put that in the file, I might try your rubber glove trick first...I think a couple of my vacuum elements leak. I lose vacuum when unlocked, but locked will hold it for a few days.

I was just in your neighborhood the other day! I was in Wayne visiting my uncle and we drove to Doylestown to Bucks County Outfitters, they had a good deal on Vasque hiking boots.

Are you near Harrisburg? If so, that was a long drive. Did you use your wagon? Let me know the next time you're in the area. I'd like to see your Euro wagon in person.