I'm going to be changing my parking brakes today on the W123. I haven't had the car long, so I'm still trying to figure out the best way to jack up the rear end. What I've been doing is one side at a time and putting jack stands under the shock absorbers, but that's kind of time consuming.

My floor jack only has like 13" to 15" clearance, so it can only reach so much. The most obvious point that jumps out at me is the rear differential, but I'm afraid to jack it up at that spot. It doesn't seem good for the axle? What would be the recommended way with a small floor jack?

I've had my car up both ways. If you jack up the differential, you'll have plenty of space since you will be removing the wheels. But put a stand under there for security. You can also jack the car from under the jacking tubes to do it 1 wheel at a time. If you're not going to use the car jack, then put a small 2x4 between the jacking tube and the floor jack.

I would also invest in some Mercedes Benz wheel chocks

Mercedes Benz Wheel Chock info

Or a couple chunks of 2 X 4?

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Works just as well and cheaper too.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

On the rear, I use my floor jack under the diff, I use a piece of wood to give me more lift hight. Then jack stands under the jack lift points.

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83 SD

84 CD

Is that actually ok to do on these cars? Lifting the whole rear via the differential? I always wondered this....I know on US rear drive cars this is ok and they even have a flat plate on the bottom of the diff for that purpose. No negative issues with lifting under the diff?

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I believe it's fine. I have done it ever since I've been into these cars and actually have a 240D jacked up that way right now.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Always lifted the rear by diff. Never had a problem with any of the Benzes I've owned.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

rear diff is a proper way to lift. hard to do with a TD though because of how low and long a reach is, REALLY slow going until the car gets up there a ways. be sure and put some jackstands under there after you get it up, that is a LOT of weight on the jack, and most new floor jacks are NOT designed to hold weight for long. I like to put the stands under the "frame reliefs" on the rear of the cars. the flat area near the bumper mount points.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

As others have chimed in, no problem, the shocks will keep travel in check.

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83 SD

84 CD

Been doing it that way ever since I moved on from swing axles....

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles