Every once in a while (Maybe two or three starts in 50) the key switch acts a little jerky, like it's not quite wanting to slide from position to position. Only once have I had it refuse, and that cleared up once I pulled the key out and back in. Once in a while, it just acts like going from one position to the next is rougher than it should be. Have also had one isolated incident when the driver's door key slot didn't want to turn... it would turn in the "lock" direction but wouldn't budge toward "unlock". Unlocked at the trunk and it worked next time.

Do I need to replace these things? Or have I got some time left? Can the switches be cured by graphite powder or anything?

Also, do I have to go to the dealership in order to have things made to match my VIN? The entire car matches so far, hate to have to change them to a new key completely.

In terms of part names that I can order, what do I absolutely have to replace?

Thanks.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Try your other key if it is in better shape, might also find that one side of your key works better than the other. Many times it is a worn key, and that worn key will wear out the locks. You can order a new key by VIN.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

We only got one key with the car, that was nearly slap worn out. Ordered a new one that's been in use less than a year and a half. Ordered by VIN, that's how I know it's original. Or replaced responsibly.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Sounds to me like it is time for a new ignition tumbler. It is trying to tell you; you should listen and do it now, on your terms and for much cheaper than the alternative.

'Tis a reasonable job to DIY, but the dealer should be able to do it for minimal charge. Instructions are in the service manual; you MUST use two 2mm pins when pulling the old tumbler.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

30 minutes of labor is more than we've ever been willing to pay the dealership for something that really is a reasonable DIY. We've only had one car go to the dealer for anything in the last 15 years, and that was when the Crown Vic needed a computer of some sort. Besides that, we've done it all ourselves or found independent people.

Just the tumblers? If I order a tumbler from a dealership, it will be cut for my key by VIN, true?

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Yes, the dealer will cut the key to the original codes, and the tumbler will pinned the same. Unless your locks were replaced by someone using other than original locks you should be good to go by ordering a set from the dealer. They will ask to see a copy of the title w/ your name on it.
If you know an Indy that can order the set (they come only as the set, one tumbler and one key) you might get a price less than what the dealer will charge you over the counter.
Oddly, if they know the Indy they won't ask to see the title, as the Indy carries all the responsibility in case of fraud. The dealers got burned too many time by an ex- telling them they need a key when they in fact were divorced or separated or something and then ran off with their ex-partners' car or even maybe say somebody wrote down the VIN of a car they would like to steal and bought a key and did the dirty deed

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!