http://www.autozone.com/N,11200512//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm



I have a separated boot on the differential side of my CV drive shaft (half-shaft?) It doesn't look torn, but rather just separated from the ring on the wheel side of the boot.

It has been making intermitant clunking sounds over the last 6 months, but now, it is constant. Initially I thought it was my exhaust and muffler...

I have an appointment tomorrow for an allignment, so I wanted to drive it in (37 miles).

My question is.... can I fill the boot with grease (if so what kind do I get) and just duct tape it together to make the 1 day trip to the shop?

The noise got real bad yesterday, and this morning I got a ride to work it was so bad....

Will that help, and can I do it. Also, could the noise be just the separated boot, and no grease..... or probably a bad CV drive axle....?

Thanks in advance. Please respond today if you have feedback..

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Sounds like you will need a new or rebuilt driveshaft. You may be able to find a split boot to temparaily repair it. But clunking is usually a sign of damage and worn metal. I don't know if they make the split boots for a Mercedes. I used some on a '78 Honda Civic. I treied the motormite ones. I didn't like them. The little screws to hold the boot together don't do well. I bought some from Car Quest (I think). The seam was glued together. They seamed to hold up. The kits come with CV grease. I think you can buy CV grease separtely. I'd clean out the joint with brake cleaner after removing as much grease as you can.
But thats a temporary fix. I think you need a rebuilt drive shaft.
Tom

Thanks,

My hope is just to get it to the shop, with the duct tape....

I have read many posts about people re-greasing in the boot, and elimating the clunk, but I think mine is beyond that

Just wishing...

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Don't try it; it could fail at any moment, and you will lose all ability to move forward or backward. It would be irresponsible to subject all other drivers on the road to such a hazard, let alone risking your own neck and grave damage to your car.

Used original axles are a good value; if the boots are intact, they usually last longer than the car. Not a bad job to do your self.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Where should I look to buy a new CV axle....

many people here say remanufactured.... where do I find them.

I am in a small town, but can't you get them through AutoZone, Adavanced Auto.....

I have about 10 days to order and install before I need the car back....

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

One previous writer all of a sudden started mumbleing about replacing your drive shaft. Don't listen to him for sure. Anyway I got my half shaft axles from Advance Auto, next day after ordering them. About a $110.00 or so plus the old shaft. They told me to expect a week, but they were next day.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Thanks, by drive shaft you mean the whole thing from the engine, back to the differential where the two half shafts (left and right side) are mounted?

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

You should replace it first. Some alignment places will refuse to do an alignment if there are obvious things broken related to the wheels/suspension, like a knocking CV axle.

Yep, They are going to keep the car, and probably do the alignment, then the CV replace if needed. Can they do the alignment first, then work on the CV later (next day) without having to adjust the alignment again??

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

You should ask the shop that question.

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RRGrassi


70's SPM #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

06 VW Jetta TDI 210K miles

03 VW Golf TDI 5 speed 372K Miles

RIP--Lost in fire...82 300D 322K was My Daily Driver-On the search for a w126 now...

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 350K

Autozone sells a Duralast part for $182 plus core charge.

My model is an 85, is that going to work...click on link.

http://www.autozone.com/N,11200512//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Do not use aftermarket junk, the do little more than change the boots and regrease.

Go with CVJ. It will take a day or two to get it to you through the mail, but they are the best in the USA. I believe their cost is also about the came as Autozoo.
http://www.cvjreman.com/

Sorry, I ment to mumble about the halfshaft. The two halfshaft or CV shafts from the differential to the rear hubs or wheels. I would agree with the others to replace it ASAP. I personally don't know how good Advanced Auto or Autozone is on those parts. Some say they do OK, others that the rebuilt ones wear quickly. Also, you will need to look at yours and determine if they are annular or homokentic. Your outside CV joints should be homokenetic. If you inside (nere the differential) look the same then they are homokenetic. If they are bolted to a hub, then they are annullar. Then again maybe its time to look at the condition of the driveshaft flex disk too.
Tom

Carquest has one for $95 I can get tomrorrow. I am very low on funds at this point, and so after alignment and cv replacement I think that is the best I can do...

I wasn't counting on this now, of course, but if it lasts 2 or so years (I will be happy with it

How do I know if I have the 8mm thread or the 12 mm thread.....???

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

If you are short on cash, the least expensive axle you can find will do. Most such things come with a warranty anyway. CVJ in Denver is a top-notch rebuilder but their prices are higher (about $140 plus a refundable $50 core charge plus shipping plus the cost of shipping the core back to them).

The hub end of your '85 axles should have 8mm threads with a 13mm head. You can pop the medallion out of the center of the wheel and look in or stick a socket wrench in to 'feel' the size. The replacement axles are all 8mm, AFAIK, but if yours somehow are 12mm, you can get the bolt, washer, and spacer from a Mercedes dealer for a few dollars. Mine were 8mm, I think the break point in production was a couple of years earlier.

CVJ told me that you should be able to drive a car with a noisy CV joint for many miles before it actually falls apart. (You may have already done that.) From my experience, the problem sounds much worse than it really is. I was sure that the axle was gonna lock up at any minute.

It's certainly possible to put some grease in the boot and duct-tape it to get by for awhile. I drove from Salt Lake City to California (750 miles) with such a patch. Auto parts stores sell CV joint grease or if you are desperate (and the joint is already damaged anyway) you can use wheel bearing grease or whatever you can find. Mercedes actually uses some kind of oil at the factory.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
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