A few questions on the 190D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

NickCox · #1 10-23-2007, 10:10 PM

Hi, I purchased a 190D 1985 2.2 Mercedes. There seems to be many problems with it and I was hoping for some help(can't find any manuals on this engine). I have a list of problems

1. Leaking diesel from around injection pump
2. Oil in antifreeze over flow (I'm replacing the head gasket and need any info about it)
3. Tranny shifts hard. vacuum cables don't look the best
4. Can not find a pump to bleed to fuel lines
5. More help about the head gasket such as tips and tools needed
6. Hard starting 55F! glow plugs?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

dwayneb · #2 10-23-2007, 10:38 PM

You don't need a pump for bleeding the fuel lines on a 190d. Just tighten everything up and run the starter until it primes everything. DO NOT run the starter for more than 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Let the starter cool for a minute or two after about 30 seconds of spinning.

You can order Shop Manual CD's, probably from Phil.

Can't help you with the other stuff.

mcguirjf · #3 10-24-2007, 01:16 PM

I had a 1985 190D. To do the head gasket your going to need the long splined socket to remove / install the head bolts. Check Baum tools website. Your engine is the OM601, chassis W201.

Your going to need...
1 new set of head bolts (these are one time use due to stretch)
2 headgasket set
3 MB silicon
4 Front oil seal
5 Timing chain
6 Timing chain tensioner
7 Head bolt socket
8 thermostat
9 hoses
10 Water pump
That should cover the head gasket job and then some. I would recommend that you leave the exhaust manifold bolted to the head and just remove the two nuts to the front exhaust pipe. When doing the head gasket it is a good time to change the front oil seal and the silicon that seals up the front timing cover.

Leaking IP- sounds like your "delivery valves" are leaking (use the forum search function)

Needs...
1 Delivery valve removal tool (splined socket)
2 Seal kit that includes washers and o-rings

Hard shift tranny

Start replacing all the rubber hoses, one at a time, and try to use the same size hoses as this car is sensitive to vaccum. A vaccum tester / pump is an excellent tool for this.

To bleed the IP, hold the pedal to the floor and crank over engine. This is how you bleed your fuel system.

To check if your glow plugs are bad...
Does the coil light "Glow Plug Light" turn on for a few seconds and then off?

The best way to check if the GP's are working is remove the injectors in the cylinder head, turn the key and look down the holes. When and if you see all four are lighting up, install the new heat shields that come with the head gasket set under the injectors. Verify orientation of heat shield and that the old ones are removed! The heat shield creates a seal between your cylinder head and injector.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes!

NickCox · #4 10-24-2007, 02:47 PM

Thank you for the quick reply and a helpful answers

Does any one know how the tach worked on these cars?

Once in a while the tach will work just fine then randomly stop working

Also do I need to replace the timing chain and tensioner, and oil seal water pump?

klaus kallas · #5 10-24-2007, 03:33 PM

The tach works via a sensor at the front crank pulley. If it acts up only occasionally, I would guess it may be a poor fuse connection (Check the #10 fuse).

If you are going to have the head off anyway, may as well replace the listed items, chain in particular. Get a set of valve stem seals and cam followers (lifters) as well and take advantage of the cam being removed.

How many miles on the engine? The 601 is a damn stout little engine...must have really baked to blow the head gasket!

NickCox · #6 10-24-2007, 05:49 PM

200000 miles not really 'blown' a little oil in the antifreeze after long driving

babymog · #7 10-25-2007, 08:49 PM

For the bolts, I'd try an easy-out and an impact driver (the kind you smack with a hammer). Should loosen them right up.

NickCox · #8 10-25-2007, 08:56 PM

Cool ill try that just got to get it back from someone its a 6mm allen wrench head how will that work into my impact driver

babymog · #9 10-25-2007, 09:01 PM

"easy outs" have a couple of different designs, generally have a reverse thread and are conical, so as you drive them CCW into the bolt head they turn the bolt out. The trick IMO is to use an impact driver, it seats the easy-out into the bolt at the same time as the shock helps to break friction, and a little pressure to unload the threads and reduce the friction. I've never had any luck with easy-outs until I started using the impact driver.

shingleback · #10 10-29-2007, 06:56 PM

Use a straight edge on the underside of the head. Check in every direction, even diagonally, to make sure there is no space between the deck and the straight edge anywhere along the deck.

For the injection pump parts, I got the seals and copper washers from Seattle Injector Service recently; it was pretty cheap. When you get to that job, remember that cleanliness is the key.

NickCox · #11 10-30-2007, 09:28 PM

In the first two pictures, there is a brown thing that holds the timing chain in line. I can't get, or don't know how to get the bolt out. I think i need to

In the third picture, I have taken the camshaft bolt out and tied welding wire to keep it timed, do I just take the sprocket off from there?

The head bolts are 8mm 12 point, but i only can find 8mm 6 point Where might I find this part?

On the IP delivery valves: I bought 4 new o-rings, but some one said I need some copper washers along with that, Is that true?

Well thanks for everyones help I just want to be sure i do every semi right, I don't want to tell my mom (i no it sounds lame) that my car wont be leaving the garage, be cause its broken

Also I just figured out something is wrong with my generation(not all of them, probably my area): Laziness.
car break, dad's there to fix it. Stupid video games

NickCox · #12 11-01-2007, 09:05 PM

Do I need to buy that $40 socket to remove the delivery valve. I have a feeling that I do, but I was just wondering if anyone has done it differently.

thanks

klaus kallas · #13 11-01-2007, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickCox

In the first two pictures, there is a brown thing that holds the timing chain in line. I can't get, or don't know how to get the bolt out. I think i need to

In the third picture, I have taken the camshaft bolt out and tied welding wire to keep it timed, do I just take the sprocket off from there?

The head bolts are 8mm 12 point, but i only can find 8mm 6 point Where might I find this part?

On the IP delivery valves: I bought 4 new o-rings, but some one said I need some copper washers along with that, Is that true

Hey Nick,

The slide bolt holding the timing chain guide is threaded internally. You should be able to find a small bolt to thread in there and (since it looks to be pretty far out already) pry it out or use a small slide hammer to pull it towards the front of the car. The chain guide, as I recall, can stay in place after that bolt is removed.

Assuming you keep some tension on the chain, you should be able to take off the sprocket. Make a few orientation marks just for back up!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=126728

You can rent a delivery valve splined socket at the above link. If you can find member "billybob", he had one I borrowed as well. As for the copper washers, I wouldn't bother. Every one I've ever removed looked like new. The o-rings are the parts that crap out.

NAPA carries a socket that will fit the head bolts. They usually have it in stock at their stores. If you can't find it, and you have a week or so to wait, I can let you use the one I have.

As always, good luck!

Klaus

NickCox · #14 11-03-2007, 03:11 PM

I could not under stand what klaus kallas said about how to remove it. I must be a little brain dead. In the picture the bolt has not moved, and is in the same spot since i have taken the belt tensioner spring off. I have tried to turn it out with a vice grip with not progress.

Thanks

tuxbeej · #15 11-04-2007, 01:49 PM

I noticed way back in this thread that you mentioned that your tach stops working from time to time. I'm assuming the SRS light also comes on too?

If so, chances are good that it's your overvoltage protection relay (OVP relay). I was having the same problems with my 190D 2.5. The recommendation I see on the forum is to change its fuses, or just replace the OVP relay with a new one. I got an aftermarket relay for about $70 CAD from an online store - if you look around, you'll find one for about that much.

Apparently, you can also keep your old one and repair it, depending on how much you like to solder.

To find this relay, you'll have to look behind (ie. remove) the black plastic cover between your battery and the firewall. Look for a silver box taller than it is wide, with a translucent red or clear top. There should be a fuse under that cover.

As I understand it, this relay "conditions" the power that goes to other electronic parts in your engine (such as your fuel pump relay). It's a cheap part that prevents more expensive parts from getting fried by overvoltage. You can drive around without an OVP plugged in, but I'm pretty sure you risk hurting other components. I'm not really an expert on MB electrical, so you may want to look for a second opinion.

Good luck with the car!