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#1
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cold start trouble is here.
All glow plugs test good. Voltage to gp's when ignition in glow plug position. New alternator. Cleaned battery terminals. Cleaned terminals that are on the body under the air intake. Battery tests good at local auto store. Cleaned the ground wire. Valve adjust 5000mi ago. Replaced primary fuel filter.
Im at a loss for what to do next. Any ideas.
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD. |
#2
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I read in another thread that you shouldn't press the gas until after the engine has started firing. Maybe that'll help?
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#3
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Ive tried various throttle stuff. Mostly no throttle at all as I understand that it just dumps cold fuel in the cylinder. Some say about 1/3rd throttle such that the slack is just coming out of the linkage.
My hard start probs are at pretty moderate temps though and accellerator pedal position hasnt been a finicky thing in the past. 35F lows at night and 50+F ambient when I try to start it.
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD. |
#4
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Check the injection pump timing. A very few degrees can make a real difference on cold starting.
Not too noticable on other things if a little off. Some diesels even have an advance mechanisim for cold starting. Remember as the chain ages the tendency is for the pump to retard in timing. That is the worse direction where cold starts are concerned. Should be checked especially if never done in last 50k or so. Basically just good housekeeping as well. |
#5
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Quote:
Have you plugged your car in at night? Have you double glowed? Triple even? Are you holding on to the ignition until it runs or are you letting go while it is still stumbling? How did you test the glow plugs? What resistance did you get? Signed, And Ex Wisconsinite that had a bunch of diesels and start them at -10F without plugging them in.
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NC Benz Fuquay-Varina, NC 1979 300D 1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles 1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car) OBK #31 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000 1973 19' SeaRay with 115 Mercury TOWER OF POWER! Club Car Golf Cart 36V Ex toys: 1967 Mustang 289 (First Car) Fiat 124TC 1975 Honda CVCC 1980 Audi 5000 Turbo |
#6
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I went and rechecked my ohm readings ala NCBenz - and....
Dee dee dee. I was getting readings in tolerance becuase I had unplugged the wrong harness. AKA this was NOT the harness that I was unplugging. I was unplugging a different one. Measuring correctly now there is only one plug that has any resistance. All the rest are infinate resistance and are 100% shot. No wonder it wasnt starting. Parts store is bicycling distance so I should be able to get new GP's in there shortly. Electrical is probably not everything it should be though. I got 12.3v across the battery terminals, 11.80 while plugging, and 10 ish while cranking. Plugs stay on for about 17 sec when igniting switch turned on.
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD. |
#7
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Are you talking about the light or the actual voltage at the GPs (not the same). The light is controlled by temperature and tells you when to start the engine. The actual GPs should stay on for about 35-40 seconds.
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#8
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Quote:
I noticed mine has a block heater on it. What guidelines are there for using those? It doesn't get THAT cold in the DC area most of the time. At what temperatures would you consider using the block heater?
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#9
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I usually don't bother with the block heater unless it's below about 15-20F. A couple of hours of heating is adequate, but I usually just leave it plugged in overnight if it's going to get that cold.
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#10
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Quote:
Only autolite available at the nearby f.l.a.p.s (Advance, Autozone and orileys) To get bosch may take ordering from napa. The plugs I had in there are Bosch 0250 201 039. The flaps websites that refrence bosch have a part number 80006. Are they the same thing? 84 300sd
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD. |
#11
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The criteria I use to determine wheather to use the block heater on the truck is not so much the outside temperature as how fast I will need power from the engine. If I'm going up the street in no hurry, I can loaf it along and let it just warm up that way. If I'm going to work and I need merging power on the Interstate just a scant 4 minutes out of the driveway, I'll plug it in.
I have the cord on a timer that comes on about 4AM and runs until I leave at 7AM. That's usually enough to have heat coming out of the ducts by the time I reach the highway when the ambient is below 40F.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#12
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I plug in when it gets near freezing. My car starts easily (usually 2-4 cranks after glowing a few seconds till the light goes out), but I would rather plug it in every night than replace the starter from extra cranking that a dead cold engine requires. I also use a timer that turns on about 3 hours before I leave. I don't think the PO ever plugged it in.
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1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles |
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