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#31
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It looks like rust to me. I had a '63 Dart back in the 90's that kept clogging fuel filters with rust. I pulled the tank, drained it, mailed it off to a place in PA somewhere where they cut it in half, cleaned it thoroughly, welded it back together, and then coated it inside and out with a thick polymer coating. I don't remember too many specifics, but the outfit was called Moyers Fuel Tank Renu, and the work ran something like $200 around 1997.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. 99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles. |
#32
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Update
Still plugging filters at an alarming rate -
Since my original post - I've probably switched out my prefilter 5 or 6 times (cleaned them with carb cleaner)....and the spin-on once. Just this morning, I was having trouble getting it started (my wife parked the car last night on our steep driveway, head up) so I went to check the filter. I had just changed it on Sunday when I adjusted the valves.....and sure enough, clogged again. So basically, I can't see thru the filter after about 100 miles of driving. I pumped like mad on "the sadistically designed knurled knob of death" or whatever Jim so affectionately dubbed it and couldn't get it started. I know I've got air trapped, I just didn't have the time to screw around it with it (late for work).....and don't feel too bad (as if you would anyway) but I'm driving my old man's Vette instead. Frankly, it should be illegal to get out of a 240d and hop in a Vette, it's just not safe ![]() Anyway - in the forum's esteemed opinion. When should I cry mercy? Changing the filters isn't really that bad.....but at what point should I cave and drop the tank and get it boiled/sealed? The other influencing factor here - is that this car will now be my daily driver (after Sunday).....my pontiac is on ebay right now. What started as a cute little MB project will now be my daily steed.
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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene |
#33
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If you can keep using your Dad's Vette, do it ASAP and take your time.
![]() The boiling out won't take too long, but the sealer needs to cure for 3 days or more before fueling it up again. You'll be happy when the tank is done. Good luck with the "new" daily driver.
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Chad 2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL |
#34
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after looking at the pictures of the filter and bottle, I would also say that rust is the culprit. I have seen the exact same thing happen when fuel gas or diesel is left for long periods of time in the tank. Moisture will accumulate, and rust the exposed section of the tank. That rust usually gets suspended in the fuel as a fine "dust". When I would split open a filter covered with it, it felt almost like talcum powder when rubbed between the fingers. Good luck....
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#35
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Such an amount of what seems to be rust must be coming from the tank. I've seen hard fuel lines spit out a lot of rusty gunk before, but hardly enough to clog filters more than one or twice before it passes.
Twice in my life, I have dealt with rusty automobile tanks. Both times, an Eastwood product solved the problem permanently. They were both gas cars, though. I have no idea if the same product is suitable for diesel tanks, but I suspect it might be. This is the stuff I used: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=382&keyword=10165z But holy cow, it didn't cost so much back then. Darned inflation!
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
#36
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What keeps that stuff from "sealing" the holes the fuel has to go through?
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#37
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Thanks guys...I guess I should have done this first but I wanted to try and "drive" it all out.
And I guess once the rusting begins.....even keeping the tank full of fuel won't really impede the problem, will it? I'll go with Por 15 or the Eastwood stuff. You just can't beat the feeling though - of having your reliable, modern vehicle on Ebay.....only to have your old MB promptly clog the life out of you. Oh well, I'm still happy I'm switching (I think).
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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene |
#38
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application
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I'll drop the tank, clean it out (repeatedly), dry it, use the marine clean and metal etch stuff......then pour in the sealant and shake it like a polaroid picture. Tank strainer is out. Let it dry and reconnect?
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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene |
#39
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It's not that thick. After you roll the tank around to coat the inside you let it cure over a bucket or pan so the excess can drip out. You can blow open any holes if they need it after you untape them. Be careful to thoroughly clean it off any threads.
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Chad 2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL |
#40
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Quote:
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Chad 2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL |
#41
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I had a similar problem 2 summers ago. I don't think it is rust, I agree with TT on the previous page. I solved my problem with a biocide, forgot the name, got it from west marine. I would keep trying with biocide.
I buy prefilters 10 at a time and keep them in the back Peter |
#42
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Hey, if it were me, I would get one of those 20.00 large fuel filters and install it upstream of the primary to handle a larger amount of the "rust" this will give you a much longer time between plugging up, and KEEP the tank full of D2/D1/Bio... and keep the powerservice in high concentrations. ya gotta flush out the tank eventually.
I am in the HVAC industry, so I just put in a large fuel oil filter, and a snythetic filter, it handled all the gunk in my tank no problem. and when I was finished with like 2 or 3 fuel tanks full, I put it back on the primary only, and have only had a few flakes in the last 6 months.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#43
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You could get a filter with a sediment bowl. I paid $50 for mine. I got the Stanadyne FM100 for $50 from Reliable Industries in Louisiana.
Emptying a bowl is messier, but you can then see what the problem really is.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#44
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agreed
Quote:
I probably overtreated with Startron, which, unless I'm mistaken, is a biocide? Chad, gotcha on the POR 15 shaking....I was just too quick to use my cheesy rap lingo reference ![]()
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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene |
#45
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Quote:
And thanks John....that's a good idea too. I think once this tank gets low (I'm about half a tank) I'm going to drop it and seal. I'm sick of dealing with this.... And as generous as my old man is (his Vette normally lives in a storage unit).....I doubt he wants it as my daily driver.
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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene |
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