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steps too pulling an engine
Anyone have a list of what needs to be done, and in which order for efficiency, to pull an OM617 for a first-timer? Tried searching, but unfortunately, no luck so far, although I remember seeing a list somewhere....
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
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Thanks Brian, that helps.
But as usual, I don't know enough about these first time jobs to be specific enough in my questioning. Is there a step by step procedure somewhere of what exactly that needs to be unhooked in order to pull the engine? As in what NEEDS to be pulled, as opposed to what doesn't necessarily need to be pulled? If it helps, I'm junking the car, so hopefully I can keep as many components on the engine as possible that will allow me to swap it into the Willys Jeep in my avatar someday, or use in my w126 if needed. I'd rather not be pulling parts and rassembling them back onto the engine if they don't need removed in the first place (think I remember seeing a discussion somewhere about whether the AC lines need removed, etc.) Thanks again Brian - combined with the above, a newbie like me will have everything they need to successfully pull an engine.
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
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what all do you want and i can probably tell you ... i just did this a few months ago
*edit* or how much do you want to stay together when you take it out?
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-Trevor OBK #12 1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled 1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto |
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After you disconnect the fuel, electrical, coolant and exhaust connections, you've got the drive shaft, transmission mount, and two engine mounts (with associated shocks). There's not a lot more to it........... ..........the devil is in the details, which is why I posted that thread. It's the little tips that save you countless extra man hours.......... |
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if you don't mind me asking waht is salvageable from the car? i might be in need of some parts.
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-Trevor OBK #12 1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled 1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto |
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-Trevor OBK #12 1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled 1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto |
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If it is " simply straightforward, you'll figure it out", then I'm fine with just being told that. If there is more to it, or an easier way, or something that I can learn from other members instead of doing it myself, I'd like to know, especially as it is my first time doing it. I thought that was why the forum was here. If not, perhaps I'm in the wrong forum.
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
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As for parts, I'm going to try to sell the entire vehicle with the 300SD that the tranny went into, but if that fails, I can supply a list. Let me know what you are looking for, and I might be able to do something for you.
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
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as for the parts i might need refer to this thread:
The 80 SD was hit today...in an odd situation as far as the engine goes (from memory): things to make the job really really easy: car lift, engine hoist, load leveler, full set of sockets and wrenches, set of allen wrenches, extentions stubby wratchet flat head and phillips head. I didn't have a engine hoist, car lift or a load leveler (i did not take the tranny out with the engine) first drain all fliuds that will spill. coolant, oil, tranny fluid, reclaim freon. disconnect battery. the list will start from the radiator and move clock wise around the engine with the motor mounts being last. 1. fan and shroud. 2. remove coolant overflow hose, upper and lower rad hoses and oil cooler hoses (if the oil cooler hoses are stuck (which they prolly are) use big vise grips and get a good hold on them, rap with a hammer with light to moderat pressure till they break free), tranny cooler hoses. 3. remove rad and oil cooler. 4. remove aircleaner and utube, place rag in turbo 5.remove hose going to heater core. 6.under the battery tray there is a terminal block with a wire that goes to the starter(i think it is the middle bolt) remove that. the wires to the alternator 7.there are a few electrical wires on the fire wall that need to be removed (one that i can think of is attached to the tranny fill tube. 8. remove the exhaust from the turbo. and tranny 9. remove ground strap from starter. 10 remove drive shaft from tranny. 11. remove ellectrical connections (both sides of tranny), shifter linkage(drivers side), speedo cable (drivers side) from tranny. 12. remove oil pressure line from back of oil filter housing. 13. remove vac lines to passenger compartment, over boost lines. 14. remove pedal linkage from IP and valve cover. cruise control wire from the stop lever. 15. disconnect fuel supply and return from pass side of engine. 16. disconnect tach amp (i had to take the ac compressor off to do this). , the plug to the Glow Plugs inside the 3x4 inch box. 17.remove AC lines from compressor and unbolt the bracket for the lines. from this point on i would have the car at the height that you are going to remove the engine. and have the engine attached to the hoist. 18. remove engine shocks (this can be done from the top) two 8mm nuts i think on the engine mounts. 19. remove the 2 engine mount bolts from the bottom of the mount, 10 mm hex i think. 20. remove the tranny mound and support the back of the tranny loosely. from here you should be able to pull it out easily. if you work from start to finish your first time should take about 10 hours (because of all the bolts that are going to fight you) I am sure if i left anything out it will be added. Good luck it is not a bad job at all
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-Trevor OBK #12 1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled 1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto Last edited by 79300sdtd; 11-26-2007 at 01:16 AM. |
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Only item I would add is to leave the oil cooler attached to the two lines and tie strap it in place. You'll want this cooler for the new installation and the oil coolers often have issues with the connections tearing out when disturbed after years..... Oil cooler comes off the rad with two bolts, top and bottom of unit. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
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I explained why there is likely to be no specific writeup. I am not completely sure of that position. I never implied that there should be no writeup nor do I discount the benefit of a complete writeup. I attempted to show you specific threads where the helpful hints of the job would ease your task..........and I found those within one minute of searching. So, if you would spend 10 minutes, you may find yourself more fortunate than I, and you won't need to criticize the lack of information on the forum. |
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i pulled and put in my first engine with no basis at all on what to be done, and i finished it within a week. it was in a 1981 240d allthough, i did spend like 90 hours on it all together. one thing to make sure of, is to get the right wrench on that damn oil pressure line and dont get frustrated and cut it then install the new engine and have it leak allover the place. (i did this..) one of the major things that is going to annoy the hell out of you is if its a manual tranny and you dont pull the tranny with the car, your going to have to do the infamous "jiggle" and it can be a real bastard sometimes. other than that, anything that is connected, just pull/unbolt and your good to go, diesels are prettmuch self contained you could run it out of the car if you wanted.
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself. George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..) 1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won. pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt. |
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Thanks for all the help guys. There some little details in there that I didn't think of, so that should make the job easier. Also, the tranny is removed, so I should be able to discount most things that concern the transmission (driveshaft, mounts, torque converter, etc.)
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
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Quote:
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79 300SD - $50 out of pocket purchase 03 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD 2003 VW Jetta TDI |
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