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View Poll Results: Which way would you remove instrument cluster to change dash light bulbs
Go from the front with wire hangers and snatch 36 49.32%
Go from the rear and push out 37 50.68%
Voters: 73. You may not vote on this poll

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  #31  
Old 12-12-2007, 04:18 PM
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Thanks for answering a question I had not even asked yet. I'm thinking mine may need to come out soon for a bulb replacement. Now, I know how. Thanks.

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  #32  
Old 12-15-2007, 05:07 PM
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and the result is......drumroll please

I took the kick panel off, and went in from the rear. It pushed out real easy, and I had enough slack to where I didn't have to undo any cables. Bulbs changed, done in about 5 minutes. Very easy and now I can see how fast I am going.
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  #33  
Old 12-15-2007, 10:29 PM
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I removed the kick panel and pushed it out. I did not want to make or buy hooks and I also was worried what else might get hooked if I tried it without knowing what is back there. I also worried that squeezing the hook between the dash might damage the old dash and the old plastic on the panel itself. So, I took the safest way out.
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  #34  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:40 AM
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I made my dash pullig tool from a 8" x 1/2" piece of steel shipping strap, very thin. Heat the end and bend a little past 90 deg. only a 1/8" hook. Easy to slip in on top of the dash then move to the side to hook into the proper slots. Give a tug and out she comes. Repeat on other side.
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  #35  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:53 AM
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I made the little hooks to remove it from the front, and thats way easier than undoing all the screws that hold the kick panel on. Why bother with all that when the hooks will have it out in seconds?
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  #36  
Old 12-16-2007, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I made the little hooks to remove it from the front, and thats way easier than undoing all the screws that hold the kick panel on. Why bother with all that when the hooks will have it out in seconds?
Exactly- it works on the W123 too. Much faster.
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  #37  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:03 PM
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Glo Lite

OK, so I just grabbed the two adjusting knobs on the cluster, odometer and clock. I wiggled them ever so gently and ...wwwooooosh! The cluster just slid out. I had to remove it to send out the speedo for recalibration. Problem is now the glow plug light works intermittently. Put a new bulb in it, checked all the connections, nothing. I was also EXTREMELY careful when I had the cluster out as not to pull on anything too hard..........no clue!
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  #38  
Old 08-27-2010, 01:12 PM
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Back from the dead topic.................

On my 1986 300SDL there was no way to go pushing from behind because of the a/c baffling running thru there. I made the tool(s) from a thinner gauge clothes hanger and inserted them about 3:00 and 9:00 and slowly pulled. She came out no problems. To get at the rheostat you only need to unscrew its one fastening screw and then pull outwards on the rheostat. I never change the brightness of my cluster lights so I simply soldered a wire between the two poles on the back of the cluster. For added peace of mind I put some Devcon 5-minute (1hr cure) epoxy over the soldered wire on the poles. Vibrations and soldering don't really go together. Now I'm good to go.
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  #39  
Old 08-27-2010, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I made the little hooks to remove it from the front, and thats way easier than undoing all the screws that hold the kick panel on. Why bother with all that when the hooks will have it out in seconds?

I don't have this problem, the previous owner removed the screws anbd installed industrial Velcro in spots. It's real easy to go in from the rear, for that reason.

And...as you may or may not know... going in from the rear can have some unique charms as well
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  #40  
Old 08-27-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonySz View Post
Back from the dead topic.................

On my 1986 300SDL there was no way to go pushing from behind because of the a/c baffling running thru there. I made the tool(s) from a thinner gauge clothes hanger and inserted them about 3:00 and 9:00 and slowly pulled. She came out no problems. To get at the rheostat you only need to unscrew its one fastening screw and then pull outwards on the rheostat. I never change the brightness of my cluster lights so I simply soldered a wire between the two poles on the back of the cluster. For added peace of mind I put some Devcon 5-minute (1hr cure) epoxy over the soldered wire on the poles. Vibrations and soldering don't really go together. Now I'm good to go.

What I find works best on the 300SDL is a paint can opener from Lowes! It fits right in and the little spoon shaped hook works great.
I keep one in the car with the spare bulbs.
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  #41  
Old 08-27-2010, 02:24 PM
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I took 2 welding rods and made tools.W140 pulls out too.
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  #42  
Old 12-19-2012, 03:42 PM
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Recycled

for new members
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  #43  
Old 12-22-2012, 01:26 AM
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Hey, if you lower the under dash plastic cover, you can get at most of the bulbs, with a little care, without removing the cluster.

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