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E300d 1996-1999
What Is The Best Year??
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1999
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Depends on what you want.
606.912 (N/A 96-97) the 97 with the 722.6 trans was prob best, the 96 had the 722.4 trans. 606.962 (turbo 98-99) the 99 added head air bags front AND rear + a few other minor changes. All years are good durable engines including the W124 95 (606.910). I like the turbo personally. |
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I'll keep my '99 E300TD. |
I've never driven a '97, and would probably like it too much if I did, but as it is I rather like my 722.4 transmission.
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so was 99 the only year you could get the w210 300D turbocharged?
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1998-99. You want the turbo, and 5spd.
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I've heard rumors that the first batch of 722.6 transmissions (early build '98s) had some bad valve body castings that made for expensive repairs. Also, the transmission firmware has been revised a fair bit as well.
I'd agree that the '99s are the best. My '98 has a torque converter drain plug which was removed on the '99s but no big deal. |
That's not the problem...
The cars got progressively more complex (and expensive to repair) as the years passed. However, for those of us in the West, where fewer of them seem to have been sold, the problem is finding one regardless of the year. When I shopped around, almost everything I saw on the various ads, lists, etc., was back East somewhere. I would rather have had a '98-99 but bought the '96 because that is what turned up and I wanted to stop shopping and start driving.
Jeremy |
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The 99's are the last and best of the breed:
These include the inclusion of a LED third brake light on the rear hat rack Fiber Optic Radio System More Airbags Also my 99 has the drain plug as well...build date 05/99 (Which would mean one of the last diesels built?) |
Additional Note.... if you like the w124 OM606 with the 4spd, you will LOVE the w210 with the OM606 and the 5 speed.... It's butter smooth. If you don't care about the speed then then a well maintained NA OM606 will do the trick.
There was recently a nice '97 E300 on eBay well loaded that went for $10,500 or so. Leather, heated seats, etc... Best is to have one of each though :D |
I believe the '96 is the most reliable of them. It has the old-style, vacuum-operated transmission (no software bugs to deal with and easier to service), no turbo to warp the air filter box or leak oil, and no MAF that goes bad, though you may get to deal with sticking intake flaps instead. Of course the non-turbo OM606 is quite weak compared to the turbo version, but it's more than adequate around town and normal highway driving.
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Torque converter drain plug disappeared in September, 1999 I think. My '99 has one and it was a March, 1999 build.
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Why would MB eliminate the drain plug? To make everyone's life more difficult?
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We found the 99 quite weak and it is currently acceptable AFTER chipping it. Not sure how the wife will like the non-turbo one. As for me, I probably will hate it and not buy it for the reason it feels sluggish. The turbo one felt sluggish compared to the 99 C280 even. |
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Filled for life? The 722.6 Automatic Transmission uses a special oil and is said to be filled for life. The oil can only be purchased through the Mercedes-Benz dealer using part number 001-989-21-03-10. A 722.6 holds about 9.3 liters and the fluid is sold by the liter. Checking the fluid is accomplished by breaking off the red locking seal located at the dip stick. the lock is replaced after the oil is checked. Use part number 140-991-00-55 for a new lock. There is no dip stick to check the ATF. You need a special tool to check the fluid on all 722.6 transmissions, part number 140-589-15-21-00. The oil level is a critical factor in transmission shifting. See Service Information 27A95105 for details. When you refill, or check thetransmission fluid level make sure that you check the level with the special tool and at the correct temperature. The latest information from Germany is that we should fill the oil to the MAX line. Not overfilled, just maxed out. This is said to improve shift quality. At normal level it is possible for the oil to form air bubbles. The increased level helps to minimize this. You might want to remember to try this on customer complaints involving shift quality before you replace any component. Along with setting the adaptation you would be surprised to see how much of an improvement you will see. The Automatic Transmission fluid is said to be filled for life. We never specified who's life. (Yes, they actually wrote that in this!-DG) The transmission control module contains a program that keeps a running count of the "calculated" cndition of the ATF oil. (Note from Gilly-I believe this was deleted from the modules right around 2001-2002, not there anymore-DG) The factors that affect the oil are time and temperature. The counter is incremented with engine running time and incremented greater with higher ATF temperatures. The Hand-Held Tester (now SDS-DG) displays a numerical value that represents the value of the calculation. At some given point in time Germany will tell us (still waiting, evidently-DG) which number means its time to change the oil. For now there is no service interval for the ATF oil. If you replace a transmission you should re-set the counter back to zero to account for the new oil. If you are doing internal work and you are replacing the oil you should also re-set the counter. It is acceptable to drain the oil out into a clean container and reuse it, provided it was collected using the MB filter funnel. Remember to flush the converter and kines before installing the new transmission. You should also replace the converter if the transmission was HEAVILY contaminated with metal. Make sure you return the converter with the transmission to warranty. Fine metal particles in the bottom of the pan are allowed. (I think what they mean here is that fine metal particles are considered an "acceptable" condition, do NOT replace transmission, as you will see if you read on:-DG) |
aklim, see post #9. I don't remember what kind of bugs those were, but I remember reading about them a few years ago when I was searching around the forum. It seems that most of the problems involved the '97 model year which was the first one to have this transmission.
Yes, we all know how you think your E300 Turbodiesel is all poochy and barely acceptable. You forgot to mention that the only reason you got it was the increased mileage for your wife's commute. ;) |
I must say I appreciate the dipstick on my 722.4 transmission. :P
Regarding the "filled for life" notion, for all practical purposes it means the warranty's life. |
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Yes, that was the reason we got it. However, SHE started complaining that it wasn't spritely as she would like it. Well, no kidding. It isn't as fun to drive as my Vette. Whoda thunk it? Right now, with the chip, it is acceptable AND we get 33 mpg cruising at 85 mph, in theory. :D If she wants to hop it up, who am I to refuse? Hell, if I could be bothered one day, I'd borrow SDS and up the boost. Maybe a manually calibrated wastegate too. Faster spool up. I never argue with the wife when she says a car is poochy. So yes, we got it for better mileage for her long commute but we still want the acceleration. Too much power, IMO, is a good starting point. |
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Ever consider the E320 Bluetec? 400 ft-lbs of torque and still over 30 mpg on the highway.
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Let it rev!
The NA 606 engine does quite well if you keep your foot down and let the engine spin up to 4500 RPM or better. It really likes to rev, reminds me of my '64 Alfa Romeo Guilia Spyder. The E300D would be a lot more fun with a manual transmission. The auto shifts way too soon for my liking but I suppose that's better for the fuel economy. The car definitely feels underpowered if you try to lug it around at 2000 RPM. Does the 722.6 electronic transmission give you more control over shift points?
Jeremy |
Make sure your Bowden cable is adjusted all the way back for maximum tension. That will delay the upshifts to an acceptable point IMO. I agree this engine likes to rev and it's unlike a typical diesel engine where most of the torque is in the lower RPM range.
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If you want a car with balls... |
4/99 #917689
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Same with Brabus, just with them you have to dig a bit deeper.:D
Last I checked the Brabus Rocket was $250k. But it will do 220mph.:D http://www.autoblog.com/media/2006/0...s_rocket_8.jpg Like the old saying: "Speed is only a queston of money, how fast do you want to go?":D |
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Yawn
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Posting full VIN's is a great way to help car thieves to clone cars.
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877180 - March of 1999
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Here is the list so far
Year,Build Date,Serial,Owner
1999,Jul-98,782860,TMALLISON 1999,Dec-98,,nate300d 1999,,862624,ebay 1999,Mar-99,877180,Sokoloff 1999,Mar-99,896766,ebay 1999.Apr-99,905210,ebay 1999,Apr-99,917689,Skid Row Joe 1999,Apr-99,918537,ebay 1999,May-99,930117,ebay 1999,May-99,930645 1999,May-99,931815,Husk 1999,May-99,933446,Autotrader 1999,May-99,933580,ebay 1999,Jun-99,940019,Jay Gibbs 1999,,940282,Autotrader |
782860
Production date: 7.10.98 to be precise. |
How do you get the production date? Is it hidden in the VIN?
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The production date for my car is on the B pillar.
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