Replacing my timing chain in my 85 300SD. Which one should I choose?

Iwis $121

Beck Arnley $53

Is the Iwis worth it a more than double the price?

Very very likely.

I believe the Iwis chain is made in Germany. I'd stick with the more expensive one in this case. If it snaps the engine is toast, and the engine is worth a whole lot more than the $60 you'd save with the cheap chain.

If it was me I'd use the Iwis.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Better yet I'd buy a dealer chain - be it Iwis or whatever. Don't scrimp on critical parts.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

Changing the chain guides and tensioner is more important than changing the chain.

I second both of the above posts.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

The BA chain might be Iwis. Ask them.

Iwis is definately original brand, also be advised it is a crimp type chain,

__________________
1967 250 S
1967 280SE
1968 250S
1971 280 SE
1973 220
1974 280 S
1975 450 SEL
1976 220 D
1979 300SD
1983 300 SD
1985 230 TE euro
1986 280SL
1986 500 SEL euro
1986 190E 2.3
1990 300 SE
2003 C230 K
2004 C230 K
1987 560SEL
1987 300SDL now in canada
2005 C230
1998 C43 AMG Sold to DON
1993 190E 2.6
300TD Former daily driver Totaled
current:
R320 CDI
Ram 2500 Cummins

The BA chain comes in one piece. They do have a master link available for it though. It has clips to hold it in place. I crimped mine, but I am not sure if it was made for that. I did buy an Iwis master link. The pins are larger that the BA pins. So it didn't fit. I would go with the Iwis, if I did it again.
Tom

Sounds like a failure waiting to happen. Why would it come in one piece? You have to separate it to install then....or take the cam sprocket off or something.....seems pointless.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Why are you replacing the chain? The FSM doesn't specify that it should ever be changed. I have yet to hear of one factory isntalled chain that failed with oil in the engine. Whatever you do dont scrimp on the crimp!

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

???

I've heard of quite a few snapping! Its all in the condition of the other components and the level of stretch on the chain. When I bought my car it had 7 degrees of stretch, idled a little rough, and was hard to start in the cold. I had the dealer swap it out with a new chain and do a valve adjustment, and it ran smooth as glass afterward, lots more power too. They highly recommended that I change it. 55,000 miles later, that chain is still in there, and I checked its stretch when I did the valve adjustment in September, barely half a degree. So at that rate I should get a good 300,000+ from this chain. I attribute its slower wear to anal oil changes with synthetic oil.....which I've been using for about 47,000 of those 55,000 that the chain has been in there.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I think if you are doing a full engine rebuild, then you can use a one piece chain. I am a bit leary of the crimp. I might have it pop welded or possible replace it with a Iwis. I have some other work to do on the car till then.
Tom

Mine was starting to stretch at about 200K when I replaced it for the first time. What's the point of playing around with offset keys when you can just make it correct? I would buy OEM, or equivalent, this isn't a good place to save a few pennies.

I have about 200,000 mile on the engine now with original chain, I was thinking of replacing it but maybe I should just replace the tensioner and the spring as mentioned by Forced Induction.? The engine always has the oil changed every 5,000 miles,and is currently running strong .

It depends on chain stretch. If its over 3-4 degrees I'd just replace it. No sense messing around with something like that. If it breaks the engine is a very large paper weight.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)