I recently inherited an old Mercedes from my grandfather, a 1985 300D Turbo. It has almost 400,000 miles on it (I'm not near the car at the moment, off the top of my head I'd say 393K). I know the engine has been rebuilt, although I don't know when, and the shocks failed somehow and were repaired shortly before I got the car.

Looking through this forum I've noticed that, while many of your cars have many many miles on them, 400K seems to be a fair bit above average. Here come the questions:

-I realize this may be an impossible question, but is a car with this many miles on it worth sinking the time and money into?

-Is this sort of car a reasonable commuter vehicle? Many people here seem to collect cars, which, while awesome, is something I'm not in a position to do. The fact that the car has made it almost 400,000 miles is pretty amazing, but can I really expect to get much more out of it? I have no complaints with how it runs (although it clunks a bit when it changes gears), and it has sentimental value, but will it really keep on going?

-A bit related to the first question: I'm interested in biodiesel as a cost saving measure, is that reasonable, or is this something that people get into "for the love of the game" so to speak?

-I don't know a whole lot about cars, is this something a newbie can do or am I already way over my head? I like machines, I just don't have the experience.

-If I keep running this car (biodiesel or no), can anyone suggest a shop or even a person in the SF Bay Area (I'm in Berkeley) that is honest and not horribly expensive?

Thank you very much for reading that entire post, and I'm sorry about the length. I have so many questions and this is the first place I've found to ask.

Do you have any idea how many miles are on the rebuilt engine, and what is the overall condition of the car?

I have over 400K miles on an original engine, but had to replace a transmission at about 250K miles. If the drive train is strong, everything else is relatively easy to deal with.

I would find that shop and have them go over the car and give you an assessment of it's condition and estimates to correct anything that needs attention. That will help you have some idea what you've gotten into.

I've going to have to make some calls to find out when the engine was rebuilt, I have no idea offhand.

General condition of the car is decent, in my limited experience. At one point the instrument lights died, I took it in to get the oil changed and the mechanic told me I'd need some module to fix the lights, but when I got it back they worked again, maybe I've got good karma. My guess is some fuse wasn't making a good connection and when he pulled it out and put it back things worked again, but that's simply a guess. The same trip to the shop also fixed my wipers and ability to blink the high beams, I think there was a problem with that stick (post? I have no idea what it's called).

The windows in the rear stutter a bit going up and down, but it's not a huge issue for me, the front ones seem to be fine. On one occasion the engine would not shut off, which was a bit worrying. According to my grandfather it has happened before, but is very rare.

This may just be lousy driving on my part, but I now make a point of getting off the gas when it's going to shift gears to avoid a big clunk. Like I said, I don't know a whole lot about cars, but big clunking noises can't be good.

There's some minor cosmetic stuff, trim on the sides came off, the rear bumper rubber thing came off and it needs some paint on the hood. I simply haven't fixed these because I'm not sure it's worth putting the money into the vehicle.

I also replaced the windshield and the headlights, they were both incredibly pitted from rocks and such over the years. Couldn't find the fog lights though, if I decide it's worth it to spruce the old girl up I'll have to get one that.

Finally, my fuel filter clogged (and caused me to stall on the Bay Bridge). My dad helped me figure out the source of the problem, and I bought 10 filters that I keep in the trunk just in case.

That's about all I've got on the condition of the car. If there's anything I should pop the hood and check, let me know.

The hard shifting is most likely a vacuum issue, as is the failure of the car to shut off. These cars use vacuum for quite a few functions. I would get a recommendation for a shop in your area (anyone?) and have it checked out. Maybe post some photos of the car if have a chance.

If the transmission modulator is shot, it could explain the hard shifts, and the vacuum loss. (a diy job, and not an expensive part)

If you still have the filter, (there are two - a screw on type, that looks like a standard american car oil filter, and a plastic, sometimes see-through, filter) look at what's inside, and make sure that it isn't algae - if it is, buy a biocide.

The biggest maintainance items are oil changes (2 gals, each time) and valve adjustments every 15k miles.

Was this originally a California car?

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Mileage on these cars is a badge of honor.....
Welcome. Oh, and we like car pics around here.

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I'll get a pic ASAP, gotta find a camera first!

Larry: I'm not sure what you mean by California car. I believe my grandfather bough it used in California, but I couldn't tell you anything beyond that. How do you tell?

If the air cleaner is behind the passenger side headlight then it is a CA emissions model. They have a type of catalytic converter on the engine that the other models didn't. It was only made one year.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

I got some pictures:

I've got a picture of the front, the back and inside the hood near the passenger side so hopefully someone can tell if it's a California model.

I also took a picture of the odometer, since my guess of 393K was almost dead on the money

Sorry for the quality of the images, it's pretty dark in the garage.

Attached Thumbnails

       

From experience, with reasonable maintenance the only thing that is likely to cause trouble on the regular commute is a clogged fuel filter, usually the little plastic primary or pre-filter. As mentioned use the biocide and/or enzyme treatments if slimy stuff shows up in the filter and plan on changing them often for a few tankfuls (its not an overnight cure). You'll get to where you can do it in about three minutes. The other thing that will strand you when you go home from work is the glow plugs. If it gets hard to start or doesn't start, suspect them or the relay. Buy an extra set of good ones and a spare relay fuse. Don't even think about alternative fuels 'till you learn the car's various idiosyncrasies. Accept the car as a long term relationship and set aside time to fix or update something once or twice a week. You'll fall in love with it, spend a lot of time and money on it, and it'll run forever if you don't wreck it or burn cold vegetable oil. Most everything has been covered in this forum and you might get yelled at if you don't search before asking...but you should ask anyway! Never mind about the filters, I already see you got that covered.

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1983 CD
1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated)

That, my friend, is a California emissions 300D! You have a very expensive air filter......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Most certainly a CA model. It has its differences but mostly apply to the emission system. I would assume the trap oxidizer has been replaced along the way. One way to know for sure is to go to you local MB dealer and ask the service department if it was done. Usually by running the VIN they can verify that for you. If it hasn't they can do it under a recall and it won't cost you anything. You might even get a new turbo.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

that hood could use some clear coat, and a good buff. I like the badge on the grille, what is it? how do the seats look under the covers? that is the same color as mine, I wonder what went wrong to have the motor rebuilt so early... the CA cars had issues with the trap ox, perhaps something went wrong there before the recall caught it. it's also possible that the motor was not rebuilt, but only worked on... several thousand $$$ to actually rebuild these motors. let us know what and when was actually done.
400K is not too bad, especially if the motor WAS rebuilt. on the vacuum front, do your door locks lock and unlock automatically with the drivers door?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I think it needs to be repainted, but it's definitely next on the to-do list, closely followed by fixing the trim.

My grandfather had it, it says "Austria". He had a Germany badge as well, but someone stole it not too long ago. I'll take a close up tomorrow.

Haven't seen them in a long time, but as I recall they're ok.

I remember it being a big deal for my grandfather at the time, and I'm pretty sure it actually was rebuilt. All I can remember is something about driving on a mountain road and a rock. I'll get more details next time I see my grandparents.

Yes. I can lock and unlock the doors twice once I've turned off the engine. After that, only the drivers door locks. I assume that means there simply isn't enough pressure differential to lock the doors again for a third time.

Being able to unlock them twice is a good sign. (doesn't mean the modulator is good though)
Do a search for modulator....clockwise makes the shifts firmer (if I remember right). You may need to experiment 1/4-1/2 turn at a time. If nothing changes, then I would think about replacing the modulator. check vacuum lines first though...Actually, check all of the rubber connectors...these, with age, get cracked and can "leak".
Then, do the modulator adjustment thing.

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D