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  #1  
Old 01-19-2008, 02:11 PM
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The cables and connections seem to me to be clear of corrosion.

Also;

Would I be able to jump the starter with a portable booster pack? I've got one of those pretty handy.
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2008, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yay4you View Post
The cables and connections seem to me to be clear of corrosion.
Okay, that's a good start. Just remember, looks can be deceiving.

Not sure on the booster pack. Seems like a good one might work. No jumper cables?
Have you checked your battery voltage by the way?
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2008, 02:45 PM
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voltage is around 12

In search of my cables as we "speak"

thanks for your help!
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  #4  
Old 01-19-2008, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yay4you View Post
voltage is around 12

In search of my cables as we "speak"

thanks for your help!

What is it exactly? If it's below about 12.2 volts you need to focus on the battery. 12.65 is fully charged, 12.00 is pretty much dead. A suffering battery will only show itself in real cold weather.
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  #5  
Old 01-19-2008, 06:49 PM
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Several posibilities:

First, the bushings in the shift linkage fall out with age on these cars, helped no doubt by the temperatures (I used to live in Sault Ste. Maire, I know). When they are missing, the lever may not push far enough to engage the safety switch in Park, although you can get it to work in Neutral. May have to move shift lever around while holding the key over in the start position to find where it works.

Second, the switch itself may be bad, or the wiring loose.

Third, the solenoid on the starter is bad, or the wiring is bad, so that no current it being applied to the solenoid, hence no start. The safety switch is in the circuit.

And don't forget that ignition switches go bad, too -- if the switch is worn out or loose, it may not make contact.

You can check these things with a voltmeter or a test lamp, but not outside in the middle of the winter! You must get 12V at the small wire on the starter (driver's side) with the key in start position. If not, trace back to the safety switch and see if the juice is getting there. Check for continuity across the safety switch in neutral and park, etc.

If you hear a loud click and the lights dim or go out, the starter is shot. They wear out and lock up, both of ours have.

Peter
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  #6  
Old 01-19-2008, 07:15 PM
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Hmm... My 87 300E would sometimes refuse to turn over when it was really really cold. As best I could tell, the starter was frozen. My mechanic said starters sometimes do that and that if I had hit it with a hammer or broom handle it night have started working.

In that we really get few REALLY cold days here in Georgia, I didn't invest in a starter. the family just nicknamed the car "Summer"...

If you moved the shifter around and it didn't help and the problem is only when it is really cold, and everything is fine when it warms up, then I vote for the starter.
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  #7  
Old 01-19-2008, 07:37 PM
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I have a hell of a time starting my car below about 20 deg F. By all indications everything is good and it should start. Except for my starter, it's the last piece of the puzzle and probably old and very warn. It just doesn't have the nuts to turn the engine I think. It's rare that we have that cold a day and I can't plug it in so I just haven't bothered.
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