Hello all:

I have a question for you. I went to the local junk yard and found a car almost identical to mine (even same color!). Its been fun messing with it.
It had 245 K when it died but some of its internals look pretty good - though getting some weather from being exposed - hood was removed early on, apparently.

Anyway, I pulled the injectors (the guy there knows his stuff and charged me $20 per injector) as well as the aux. vaccum pump (which works!! - $50 ), a window motor + regulator (3 more to go, if I have the energy - $50 for each), assorted hoses, switches, and a new fan clutch (in case mine gets botched when I try to repair it).

I wanted to ask 3 questions.

1) Should I have him pull the fuel pump for me ? I think he quoted me $200 (or was it $300?). Seems like good insurance, especially since I am running WVO.

2) My winshield has a speckled look which makes visibility less than optimal in some light conditions. I think this car's is better than mine for some reason (though I need to make certain). He quoted me $85 plus the cost of someone to remove it. What do you think? Way cheaper than a new one, but do I even want a new one -I have heard they are not so long lasting these days?

3) I am trying to pull the steering column on this junkyard beast to access the turn signal shaft - since mine will not click back. I couldn't get it and the guy told me I stripped the hex socket of the steering column (which is not very deep) to the point of not being able to remove it. He is going to try and pull it for me by chiseling it down or something - maybe just by tearing off the steering wheel. My question is - is it worth the effort? If I couldn't pull out the junk yard steering wheel without stripping it will I strip mine as well while trying to replace it? Plus, there's the question of whether this $40 old replacement turn shaft will work at all... Apparently, unlike the W123, you have to pull the steering wheel on the W126 to access the turn signal - I saw no other way. Has anyone ever pulled out the steering wheel and how can you do it - does it need a special hex tool?

Thank you and best wishes!

Dan

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

I can't answer your questions, but let me know if the interior wood is good. I'll pay you what you spent and a bit for your trouble.

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1982 300SD
1967 250S
...what was I thinking......

1. Sound expensive for a fuel pump. You mean injection pump?

2. I had a new windshield installed in my 83 300SD for around $150. Why buy used?

3. It's a 10mm allen bolt. Need to remove the steering wheel on both W123 and W126 to access combination switch.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

intake/exhaust manifold
turbo
oil line to turbo

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Those prices sound kind of high to me.

Actually, you don't have to remove the steering wheel on the W123. Take the boot off the switch, then remove the two screws holding the switch in, two wires for the horn, and it comes right out by fishing the wire harness through the steering column.

As for the "turn signal shaft", are you talking about the steering shaft? If I am not mistaken, there is simply a steel block welded to the shaft that the switch contacts to trip it and return to center. Unless this block fell off, any non-centering problems are likely in the switch itself.

As for the windshield, you may want to look into new instead of used. Some new windshields are actually very reasonable in cost. Here is one site you can check that will give you an immediate quote:

https://www.safelite.com/sslPages/service.jsp?CLICKED=QUOTE

Take yourself a two x four about four feet long will do. The idea here, as many here have suggested, you do not want to rely on the steering lock to hold the steering wheel in place while you are trying to break the lock nut free.
You may not care about the junk car, That's cool. But you will need the wood for your own car. The trick here is to place the wood through the steering wheel letting it come into contact with the floor. As you wrench on the lock nut in the steering wheel, the steering wheel will turn a little and rest against the wood. Now you can leverage the force against the lock nut without the steering wheel turning any farther.

Be sure to use a very high quality 10mm hex socket. These seem to fit much more snug into the lock nut.
Also if you feel up to it remove another lock nut from another car to use as a spare at home. Should you chew up your own lock nut a little.

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Selling used Mercedes parts on Ebay...always changing...
cdplayer51 take a look!
____________

How about buying the whole car for a fixed price, take all the stuff you need and let the junk yard keep the carcas(sp?)

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1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head
1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles
1997 E320 180K mi (Son's)
2002 ML320 (Son's)
1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold
1985 300SD 311K mi
1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd)
*************************************

Yes - I did mean fuel injection pump.

The wood on the inside is in bad shape, unfortunately.

I agree - the prices are a little high - I am willing to pay these amounts for them b/c all of the stuff is in 1 place.

Could be cheaper to buy the whole car, maybe, except this guy really seems to know the value of each part, doesn't seem one to budge, and he'd probably charge a pretty penny.

I also started with a 10 mm allen - it stripped.... Maybe I need a higher quality allen to start with. Trick with the 2 by 4 sounds good if I can find another car to try it on.

Thank you all for your input. I'll look in to a new windshield.

Dan

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

My place charges $35 for an injection pump and you can get a 30day warranty on it.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

^ IP's are $12 where i go. injectors are spendy, though- $4/ea. makes it $32 for an entire fuel system, lines included.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

$20 for unknown injectors seems kind of high? You can get them rebuilt for about $60.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

DANNYF, Have you checked out the Pick N Pull in Moss Landing?
It`s not too far from you, and they usually have several 126 in there.

Where is this wrecking yard you are using?

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

For the steering bolt, I use an impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer. A 10mm cut-off allen wrench in a 10mm socket works for me (unless you have the correct 3/8" drive 10mm bit). Don't need the board trick with the impact, just turn it against the steering lock with your hand and the inertia of the steering wheel is enough when you hit the impact driver. Never fails me that handy little tool.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

DannyF,

Take the auxiliary water pump. They usually seem to go bad.

P E H