I replaced my vacuum brake booster because mine was leaking (But EVERYTHING was working). Before I replaced the brake booster, my engine shut off and my doors locked (even though they wouldn't unlock because of loosing vacuum from the brake booster line and/or other lines leaking).

This morning, I went out, disconnected the 2 vacuum lines, and installed the new brake booster vacuum line. Very easy. I started the car, but now the door locks do not work and the car does not shut off. Does this make any sense?

All I touched and disconnected was the brake booster line itself, and the two vacuum lines that connect to it. I made sure the booster line is positioned correctly where it points to the engine. I just do not understand on how I put a BRAND new vacuum brake booster line in, and reconnect the two lines, and now the car does not shut off and the doors do not lock/unlock.

Does anyone have any advise or input? I already know that I will have to go out today and buy a Mityvac. Thanks in advance!

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

something's not connected somewhere...
I had no such issues when I replaced my booster recently

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1969 220D "Berta" RIP
1982 300D turbo 250K

When I disconnected the brake booster, all I did was disconnect the two vacuum lines, installed new brake booster, and plugged in the two vacuum lines.

After the car did not turn off/door locks not working, I went and checked those lines and everything seems fine. Very frustrating.

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

Did you replace the brake booster line or the brake booster? The brake booster has an o-ring that can leak and cause your problem if you indeed replaced the brake booster.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I replaced the Brake Booster line.

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

If I go out and buy a MityVac, is there anyone that can help me diagnose the problem? Thanks again.

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

You don't need a mityvac, you just need to find the leak which you caused doing the work. It is either the connections which you handled or you inadvertently knocked a line out of one of the Ts and just arent seeing it (which is where my money is on) or you broke one of the brittle plastic lines which is also easy to do. Look again and pull gently on the hoses to make sure they are all attached and look for cracks and listen for leaks. Then, if that fails to restore functionality listen for leaks around the fittings you changed the lines on.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Marty,

I will go back, check the system again and report back. Thanks

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

You have to wait for the vacuum to build up when replacing vacuum lines in the engine bay especially that large main vacuum line to the brake booster. Also there are different sized orifices for different W123 models - get the right one for your car (should be around $25), for an 83 300D it has one valve near the tip of the master cylinder, and that one valve has two outlets (or inlets).

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How long do you normally have to wait? I did some troubleshooting using some golf tee's and I believe the yellow checkvalve for the door locks is bad or leaking. What I found out: Using 3 tee's and plugging in the ignition vacuum line, the car turns off. Taking one tee out, and plugging in the transmission vacuum line; the car turns off.

Now, I took another tee out, and plugged in the door locks vacuum piece, and the car will not shut off and the door locks barely work.

I ordered some vacuum parts from Fastlane to hopefully fix these problems. The good thing; I got my car to turn back off, but just do not have any of my locks working yet. Will post some more information once I receive the parts.

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

2 questions is it possible that there is just something wrong with the new vacuum line?Ounce in awahile even new parts are don't function correctly?.
Next is it possible to connect the vacuum line backwards and if you did would it cause the problem he is having?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It depends on what you mean by backwards. The yellow lock check valve is a one way valve, the single port connects to the main vaccuum, and the double ports connect the yellow and yellow/grey lines. The check valve open under vaccuum with the vacuum pump, but closes when the car is not running, due to vacuum from the vacuum keeper for the locks. A faulty vacuum consumer in the locking system will cause issues as well, and check valves are known to fail.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

My new parts just arrived, and here is the story.

After replacing the yellow check valve, no difference which means my original was working fine.

On my 4 way connector, if 3/4 vacuum lines are hooked up, except for the door locks line, everything is fine on the car; The car will turn off and drive/shift perfect. Now here comes the wierd part; If I connect the 4th vacuum line (yellow check valve for the door locks) the car will NOT shut off and the door locks barely move.

What would be the next step to address this problem? Could it be a bad vacuum brake booster vacuum line that I received? Thanks in advance.

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1985 300SD - 167k miles
1992 F350 7.3 (Soon to be converted to 2 tank Veggy/WMO)

See if there is a difference with the doors locked versus unlocked.

The yellow check valve is not really a factor when the engine is running.

The first time I redid all vacuum lines in the engine bay and I shut off the engine, it would not shut off so I had to manually do it, restart and let the vacuum accumulate so it would shut off properly the next time. I had nothing to do so I took it for a drive, been fine since.

The main vacuum line is quite big so it would take some time for the vacuum to build up, compared to replacing, say, one of the smaller lines. See if you tightened the two ends properly too, the front one is harder to access with the power steering pump and fuel lines in the way. Also check the small check valve atop the vacuum pump, that connects to the hard line prior to the main vacuum line.

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