All of my GPs are brand new from the dealer. I replaced all 5 so I assume they are all functioning. My GP light on the dash quit working which is why I replaced them, and the boost sensor and now its burning bright as ever. I assumed the GP problem was fixed.

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1963 Ford F100 - Cummins Swap?
1985 Mercedes 300SD - 210K
1992 Ford Festiva - 92K
2001 Ninja 250 - 8K

If you can't use your hand pump, I would remove the secondary (can) fuel filter, fill it with clean diesel, replace, then crack all your lines at the injectors. Crank until you see fuel coming out of all lines, then tighten. Good idea to unplug your GP relay while you are doing all this cranking.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Richard,

Yes its starving for fuel. There isn't enough fuel in the body of the IP to get get fuel into the barrels of the IP.

Pump the hell out of the manual primer fuel pump. At least 50 times as fast as U can. Pump 100 times if U didn't fill the secondary filter with fuel. If the manual primer fuel pump is real bad, this still may not work. Replace the manual primer fuel pump and try again.

U never need to bleed the injection lines, the air will be forced out when the IP pumps fuel to the injectors.

P E H

PS: Brass fuel lines? Splain.

I do this every time I replace the filters. I use injector cleaner, or Power Service. And pump the primer till you hear a different noise, you can crack the injectors if you want while cranking engine to send fuel through the IP, there is to much pressure for the primer pump to send to the injectors, it's to send fuel to the IP.

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83 SD

84 CD

as you may already know you have air in your system hand pump is a nessary tool for the eng.if you changed the filters did you fill them with clean fuel if not do so. if that hand pump is bad it could be sucking air into the system, air in a diesel will create no start and run rough problems, I would sugets gettin new hand pump and clearing all air from system and old trick I use because I am and old Diesel Mechanic is a fuel cap with and airline fitting brazed in to it that way I could put cap on and apply 5psi air presure to system and then go up to engine and bleed off all the air in the system by cracking open the lines, when you get clear fuel no more air , your done. I do not recommend useing any more then 5psi on system please, have a way to regulate the air presure. good luck and let us know,Jerry

Help I have starting problems as well (1987 300D)... I replaced a starter a couple of days ago the vehicle had a hard time starting because of excess fuel in the chambers.. Removed the injectors and cleaned the chambers abit the vehicle started and ran better than it has in months. Drove the car several times that day and night no problems at all. The next morning I went to start it and after glow a short while it just went spining to finanally just a click click from the starter... I read in another thread that if the light dim while trying to start it's the starter.. Hope that the only problem.. A Durlast from AZ. Another one on the way tomorrow.

pop,

I hope U mean 0.5 PSI not 5 PSI. 5 PSI is 720 pounds per square foot. AT 5 PSI, the fuel tank may take on the shape of the Hindenberg (before the fire).

P E H

No i meant 5 psi pounds per square inch very little air presure you could use and air tank use for airing up tires, no more then 5psi,

darrell,

Any starter will make the lights dim, same goes for the GP. A battery has internal resistance and the cables, no matter how heavy the gage, have a finite resistance so when current goes thru both there is an IR (voltage) drop in them. This is what makes the lights dim.

The lights will also dim due to a bad or discharged battery because the internal resistance is higher in a bad or discharged battery.

SO dimming of the lights is no test of a starter!

P E H

Well I've ordered a new primer pump. I'll install that and pump the hell out of it and try again. If it doesn't work I'll be back! Thank you all so much for the advice!

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1963 Ford F100 - Cummins Swap?
1985 Mercedes 300SD - 210K
1992 Ford Festiva - 92K
2001 Ninja 250 - 8K

Hello all,

I have a 1983 300sd. I just relaced all of the glow plugs. On my first try to start the car in the cold it started just fine (temp 18). I went to work and plugged the car block heater in, and when I got out of work we had a blizzard going on. The car would not start (temp 2) wind chill -37. any ideas

Could be lots of things- How old is your Battery, how old is your starter, does the engine even turn over?
Do a search, there are lots of no start threads.

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles

Well i feel like an idiot but whats this handpump your talkng about. Do i have one on my 300D 1984.

unclemarc,

Yes all the 616 and earlier engines had the manual primer pump. MB stopped putting them on 603 and later engines.

Its on the side of the IP where the fuel pump is. Older pumps had a round serrated top that U screw loose to pump it. Newer ones have no screw top , U just push down the top of the pump and it returns by an internal spring.

I wish MB would have put the manual primer pump on the 603 engines.

P E H

There are two different styles, I have the black one, circled in the pic. The original one is white, you have to unscrew it, pump, screw it back in. The black one, you just pump.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 SD

84 CD