Great job. Is the proccess the same for a 1995 OM606 non turbo engine?

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Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

Yes. Is the same for ALL 60x pumps. I would not recommend removing the valve elements or collars.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks Terry

__________________
Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

Same symptoms here. Once done, you won't have to touch it for another 150,000 miles.

It won't be spurting out, but you'll always be able to smell hot diesel after each drive for as long as they leak.

BTW, regarding photos - get an account here:

http://www.flickr.com/

Totally free and no limitations on bandwidth. Theres a dead simple upload tool here:

http://www.flickr.com/tools/

That makes uploading photographs an absolute doddle.

Once your photos are up, just go to your Flickr page, right click the image, and copy the url to here. Thats it (although you must ensure the url ends with jpg, delete any characters that appear after that). You can select about 5 different sizes of images to use, it will resize them for you. I chose the 2nd largest because I wanted people to see the detail on the closeups.

I'll second that. Regardless of how well the crud will stay there, the top of the IP should be surgically clean. Carb or brake cleaner, a toothbrush and compressed air are perfect. Everything should be spotless. If you get even the smallest piece of dust in there... you'll be tearing it all back apart.

Anyway, one more thing which was left out... the 3-stage torque procedure for the barrels is 30Nm, release, 30Nm, release, final torque 30-35Nm. Some people have mentioned that later FSM procedures don't mention this requirement, but it won't hurt to do it. Don't overtorque, you can warp the pump body. Better to be under-torqued.

Here's a photo of the special socket:

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Where can you buy the special socket from? My local Merc dealer (Bristol, UK) won't sell tools to the public...

Is avail under the Special Tools Tab on this site and through tool sellers too. Google is your friend, or call another dealer who wants to sell stuff.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Yup. Find a dealer in the UK who will sell tools. I can't believe your dealer won't - what a stupid policy! Worst case, you can get one from the USA. Also try www.speed-autoteile.com in Germany, they can special order anything you want. Current USA dealer cost is $27.50, most dealers charge 30-50% markup on that, so I'd expect typical prices in the $35-$45 USD range.

Thank you all a million times for this thread - I've worked on lots of engines in my time and each has it's own set of rules. There is priceless little information out there on the 606 MB Diesel and I can't thank you enough for this site with all it's DIY information.

I'm in the middle of replacing the glow plugs, injector return lines, checking timing chain stretch, and these delivery valve orings and copper seals are next in line.

Thanks a million!

I'm also curious about how to properly time a 606 inj pump at home, and, how to diagnose worn out injectors? my '95 has 265 on it, has had regular oil changes and other maintenance according to the owners manual - I've only had it for a few thousand miles and it's really sluggish....

how about the fuel filter in the tank? How do you go about replacing that?

I've already done the following:
Oil and filter (twice, 2nd time I used rotella 5w40 synthetic)
Fuel filter canister and pre filter
power steering filter and flush
transmission fluid, filter, pan gasket (including draining the converter)
steering damper
cruise control module
Blaupunkt MP57 mp3 player (plugs right in with no wiring modifications!!!)
glow plugs
timing chain stretch inspection 2-3 degrees of stretch (the width of the timing pointer)
Injector return lines

AFAIK there isn't a filter in the tank, there might be a screen though. Unless you're suffering from poor economy I wouldn't even consider looking at the fuel pump timing. If the chain is ok, leave it. Injectors are always worth a clean, but again only if you have poor economy or loud running. Mine is on 218,000 and the injectors have never been touched, and its still doing UK 40mpg.

I have two primary concerns at this point:

1. Exhaust smoke after start up, and during acceleration is heavy.

2. Acceleration performance is poor.


Several questions as far as injectors go:

1. is a special socket required to remove injectors on a 606?

2. how many special tools are required to disassemble, inspect, clean and reassemble 606 injectors?

3. If the answer to #2 is "don't try this at home" at 265k miles with the smoky lack of acceleration - is it time to spend $55 x 6 and replace them?

4. is there a favorite place folks here send injectors to for inspection / testing / rebuilding?

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95 E300 Diesel 265k and counting

1. Yes, a special socket is required for the 606 injectors - click here to see it. The part number is 606-589-00-09-00, dealer cost is $18, and it should be available as an OE tool for about $25 or so. I'd avoid the aftermarket Taiwan ones on eBay for $35, since the OE German tool is cheaper!

2. To take them apart & inspect the insides, you really just need a good, solidly mounted bench vise, preferably with brass jaws. You will need to read this PDF file before you consider cracking open injectors to play with the insides.

3. Not necessarily... the replacements / rebuilds should be matched so the pop pressures are within 5 bar (preferably 3 bar) from highest to lowest. I'd look into finding a local diesel shop that works on Bosch injectors and see what they want to inspect, clean, re-assemble, and test the set. They should also be able to tell you if the nozzles need replacement or not.

4. The only place I know of offhand is Pacific Fuel Injection in S.F., CA... Gus Pfister is probably one of the best Bosch rebuilders in the USA.


Side note about the performance.... have you already made sure all the resonance flappers in the intake are working 100% normally? That will kill performance if they're acting up! It shouldn't cause smoke at startup, though. I'd also make sure the EGR valve isn't stuck partially open.

Thanks a million GSXR -

I will look into that new socket and read the injector inspection information with great interest.

There should certainly be a shop around here that can rebuild these things, I'll have to do some searching.


Can you direct me to a link to teach me more about the intake manifold flap proper operation / testing / trouble shooting?

I did find some wire insulation in poor shape under the intake - that's on my list to repair as I put things back together again.

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95 E300 Diesel 265k and counting

I don't have a link handy for the 606 intake flaps, but I believe there are several threads on this forum about that issue. See what you can find in a search. I don't have details since I've never worked on a 606 myself! I've just read about other people's trials & tribulations...

BTW - there is a strainer in the tank, which can get plugged up... but it's a real PITA to remove & clean (or replace).

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