Great write up, and photos. I downloaded the lot of them from your site - thanks!

I have to learn how to get my photos down to the allowable size to post, and still have them show any useful detail.

How often is this job necessary? I am just beginning to notice a slight smell of Diesel and a loss of fuel efficiency in my 1998 with 162,000 miles. I inspected the top of the injection pump the other day and noted it was grimy and wet looking, and with my nose in the vicinity the Diesel fuel odor was pretty strong. I get no spots on the ground though, so the leakage rate is pretty low - seems it must be evaporating at nearly the same rate it is leaking.

Thanks again, I will be off to find the Viton O-ring thread, and gathering the parts. I will likely replace most of the fuel line seals at the same time. Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

1 shutoff valve 2.5mm x 12mm ID
9 fuel line 2.5mm x 8mm ID (1 located at fuel filter housing)
3 fuel filter housing 2.5mm x 10mm ID
1 pre-filter 3mm x 18mm ID

1 O-Ring for in-tank fuel screen/filter 3mm x,35mm ID / 41mm OD.

Anyone know the lsize of Delivery Valve o-rings?

__________________
#dieselFLEET
---------------
'97 E300
'99 E300

Great job. Is the proccess the same for a 1995 OM606 non turbo engine?

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Thank you, Jay
83MB 300D 241K "The silver coffin"
10 Prius lll 1K
95 MB E300D 120K Mable
02 Saab 9-5 Areo 131K
Cannondale SR500
www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

Yes. Is the same for ALL 60x pumps. I would not recommend removing the valve elements or collars.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks Parrot for taking the time to post the 'how to', great detail and pics.

After a head rebuild I think this maybe the problem on my non starting OM 605 (non turbo) Fuel pressure relief valve adjustment

Pretty much covered everything else and the Bosch engineer said the seals may have stuck open allowing fuel back and not maintaining enough pressure to crack the injector open.

Sounds plausible as car has a long history of standing not being used before my ownership, i also ran it on svo with a twin tank set up but some of the veg oil may have clogged it.

Do you think this maybe possible?

Thanks again,

David

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

First, let me compliment you on an outstanding article! It is well written and artfully photographed.
There's 2 things I have questions about though. The MB Technical Data book calls for torquing the DV's in 3 steps. Torque to 30Nm then loosen, torque to 30Nm again and loosen, then final torque to 35Nm. Perhaps this applies to my 602 engine and not a 606 engine but I suspect it's an important step. I've heard it's possible to damage the IP if the DV's are torque'd improperly. Admittedly, MB doesn't make it easy to find these kinds of details.
The other comment is about cleaning the engine. I try to hose my engine down every 3rd or 4th car wash after spraying Simple Green on the non- electronic parts. This cleans the engine and makes working on it much easier and more pleasant. I highly recommend this treatment before tackling a project like this as it makes for a much more pleasant work area.

You are correct - this 3-stage torque procedure should be used for all Bosch M-type pumps, used on all OM60x engines, including the OM606. Damaging the pump is possible if you over-torque the splined holder, but you'd really have to be a gorilla to apply THAT much torque. Hopefully anyone who does this job actually uses a torque wrench, and not a breaker bar, lol.



I agree 100%. I use Gunk "Citrus" engine cleaner/detailer, available at your local McParts store for about $4 per can. It works quite well and doesn't stink nearly as bad as the usual (non-citrus) cleaners. Cleaning the engine, tranny, and steering gearbox throughly is the only way to identify all leaks, so you can fix them. I've got all my cars 95% leak-free, and I like it that way!

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

The torque procedure was supposedly updated to 35NM one time only.

Either seems to work.

Over-torqueing has been said to deform the milled alum body of the IP.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Hello! Recently bought a 1997 E300, US non turbo, 156,000 miles. Love the car although I would have rather a turbo model, I think that was available here in 1998. Well, the discharge seals were leaking along with a few of the o-rings on the fuel lines. Your posting was so very helpful!! Great pics, made the job last night much smoother, THANKS! While the intake was off I noticed an extreme amount of carbon build-up inside the intake tubes and inside the ports in the head. This was due to the positive crankcase vent puffing oil fumes back into the intake. Several of my ports were over half stopped up-- could be the reason for this car being sluggish while "getting on it" trying to pass another car, etc. Anyway, looking forward to taking it out of the garage later today to see! Any thoughts on an electric blower installed on the intake to increase power/efficiency? Thanks again, Mike

Hi Mike, welcome!

Don't even waste a second of your time thinking about electric blowers...

Enjoy the car the way it is: Smooth and quiet!

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Nothing unusual. Buy a bottle brush and some degreaser, and scrub it clean.

this is a great write up on redoing the injector pump.
my "Stealer" says I have an air leak in the fuel pump but I think this is actually in the pump that moves the fuel form the tank to the filters as I see air in the clear lines to the filters.
someone told me this first pump is attached to the injector pump and can be purchased seperately. does anyone know of a post just to replace the initial fuel pump.
thanks

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL.........Very informative, pictures are excellent. A BIG THANKS to you. Just started my 1997 W210 E300 today. However having two problems first fuel is coming out of the deliver valve like mad now that I have number 6 removed. Big tray to catch it of course on ground...The second issue which is of concern is that the crush washer is stuck way inside on the lip of the delivery valve and I cant seem to get it out. Really concerned about scratching the inside of the valve to get it out. Going to make a small pick from a fish hook to try and get it out. By the way the rate at which fuel is flowing makes me wonder how I am going to get the spring to stay in place to put it back together.

Rod

Same symptoms here. Once done, you won't have to touch it for another 150,000 miles.

It won't be spurting out, but you'll always be able to smell hot diesel after each drive for as long as they leak.

BTW, regarding photos - get an account here:

http://www.flickr.com/

Totally free and no limitations on bandwidth. Theres a dead simple upload tool here:

http://www.flickr.com/tools/

That makes uploading photographs an absolute doddle.

Once your photos are up, just go to your Flickr page, right click the image, and copy the url to here. Thats it (although you must ensure the url ends with jpg, delete any characters that appear after that). You can select about 5 different sizes of images to use, it will resize them for you. I chose the 2nd largest because I wanted people to see the detail on the closeups.

Where can you buy the special socket from? My local Merc dealer (Bristol, UK) won't sell tools to the public...