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  #1  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:01 PM
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Exclamation Stripped motor mount bolt - HELP needed ASAP

I am in the throws of changing my oil cooler lines, motor mounts and engine shocks & mounts. The car is up on the jack stands, I'm ready to jack up the motor via the oil pan. I went to loosen the 8mm hex bolt under the left mount and saw it was already rounded out a bit. I sprayed it with PB blast and let it sit for a while after tapping on it. I tried to apply some heat for about 20 seconds and tried turning it which finished rounding out the hex bolt.

How should I go about removing this bolt now? It looks like tight quarters for whatever the solution is. The bolt head is accessed through a hole in the crossmember under the mount.

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  #2  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:14 PM
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can you get a drill in there? LAST resort generally seems to be drilling...
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:16 PM
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or you could nock in a sacrificial oversize torx bit
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:18 PM
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The other possibility is an "easy out", you can pick up one that will work (or get a whole set - this isn't the only time in your life that you'l screw up a hex bolt) at most any hardware or Harbor Freight or ....
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:22 PM
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There's room for a drill, I guess I'll have to go get a screw extractor set. I don't have any torx bits to sacrifice.

Is there supposed to be only one bolt to remove from under the mounts, or is there one on the passenger side too? I didn't see one, but want to make sure before I start jacking up the motor.
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:31 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I looked at Sears.com for a screw extractor set. Will I need to drill the bolt first, or will the extractor bite the hex head insert?
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:43 PM
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right size extractor should tap in lightly and secure itself when loosening the bolt. Looks like a strange drill bit.
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2008, 05:46 PM
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Although I haven't tried to remove the bolt using this method while in the car but a last resort is to jack up the motor and let the the rubber mount rip apart and maybe you might have room get to it.

I've removed motors without removing the bottom bolt and let the mounts rip apart.
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2008, 06:00 PM
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I like this way too - then you can unbolt the mount arm from the engine block and really get some elbow room on your workbench instead of pinned under the car.
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2008, 06:16 PM
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Get a long drill bit a little larger in diameter than the allen wrench that used to fit it and drill it till it falls out.
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  #11  
Old 01-30-2008, 07:08 PM
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If you are dealing with and allen type bolt, an easy out is threaded backward, so as you "loosen" it bites into the damaged hole.
If you're dealing with a hex head bolt, a "bolt grip" tool is helpful.
Good luck.
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2008, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Get a long drill bit a little larger in diameter than the allen wrench that used to fit it and drill it till it falls out.
Thanks for this suggestion. I am going to try this next.

I think someone tried to replace these mounts before unsuccessfully. The driver side bolt was already rounded and the passenger side bolt was hidden because it looks like the engine was jacked up and tore the mount. When it was set down the bolt rested on top of the rubber of the mount. I stabbed the rubber out with a screwdriver from underneath so I can see the bolt head. I can't get my hex socket to fit in this side, I think due to the torn mount allowing the motor to sink. I'll try jacking it up slightly so I have a straight line to the bolt head.

I looked at the possibility of tearing the mounts out and removing the mount arm, but I can't even see all the bolts that hold it on and the ones I do see look like they'd be tough to loosen too. I'll find a long bit and drill out the bolts. Worst case, I'll drill all the way through the arm and use a bolt with washers and a nut to hold the new mount on.

A long day with nothing to show for it but some new tools, ideas for Plan "C" and possibly Plan "D"
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
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"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
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  #13  
Old 01-30-2008, 10:55 PM
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Sears carries some great tools called 'bolt outs'. they are like reverse easy outs that grip the outside if the screw instead of the inside.
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  #14  
Old 01-30-2008, 11:15 PM
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Does anyone have an opinion about this drill bit? I am considering getting this one to drill the bolts out. Will this last for drilling out two bolts? Is there a better bit to buy and where from?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966062000P?vName=Tools&cName=PowerToolAccessories&sName=Drill%20Bits&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

validius,

I saw the "bolt outs" while at sears today picking up the DRILL-OUT Power Extractor set. I don't think they will fit through the hole in the crossmember to get to the bolts. The extractors aren't long enough to reach the bottom of the hex insert and the bolts are so tight, I think the extractor might break off in them anyway. I think my best bet is to just drill them out carefully.
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #15  
Old 01-31-2008, 12:54 AM
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Smile

I wouldn't mess with any of the bolt extractors .... none of that stuff works all that well in this situation. Just get a drill bit the size of the outer diameter of the screw and drill the head right off the bolt. That will free the mount from the arm. Then raise the engine until the arm extends above the mount and unscrew the bolt from the arm by hand .... since there is no more tension on the bolt it will just twist off by hand. If you don't have enough clearance just remove the arm and then unscrew the bolt. It's fairly simple ..... I have had to do it more than once to correct previous shoddy work by others.

David Roseman
Long Beach, Ca

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