I am collecting all the parts to do my brakes. 4 loaded reman calipers, 4 new hoses, 4 new rotors, reman master cylinder, new reservoir seals, and new reservoir cap.

I can get a reman brake booster for $54.97 after I return the core. Is it worth replacing it while I'm doing the master cylinder since I can get it so inexpensively, or should I leave it alone and wait until it needs replacing?

Also, all my hard lines are fine, but is there any other suggestions of things I should consider replacing? (sensors, etc.)

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

For $54 id do it. Its really not bad to replace at all. Four bolts that are tricky to get to under the dash, but not bad with a universal extension.

You have to bleed it obviously anyways, might as well do it all up right instead of having the booster go out in 6 months.

Good luck,
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

That's how I've been leaning ... however, my "replace it while I'm in there" mentality has lead me down some long roads before.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

Also, does anyone see a benefit using slotted rear rotors? I'd think it would be more effective to have them on the front, but I see they are only available for the rear at Fastlane.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

Im the same way. This will not be one of those roads (and Ive been donw a few thus far!!). Its four nuts and out it comes. Nothing easy to break, nothing to mis-align, etc. The work in replacing it is moving all the other stuff out of the way that you have already moved :-)

To get to them I used my 1/4" drive socket with a 6" extension and a universal. I think the nuts are 13mm. I put my head under the brake pedal and guided the socket onto the one trick nut that in the upper left.

One of those magnetic holders that goes inside the socket to hold the nut is useful but not imperative for re-assembly. Don't over tighten the nuts - FSM i think had them as 15 nM or less. Youll notice they wont be too tight to begin with (unless a PO or PO's mechanic ignored it once before :-) )

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Cool info, thanks for the insight dieseldan44. You read my mind about the possible problems I was imagining.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

Since you will be replacing the rotors and calipers. I would have used the front vented rotors and calipers from an SD. It last longer and resist warping. I have never tried the slotted ones in front but I have the drilled ones in the rear. They are OK.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

Pulsing? Doesn't that mean warped rotors?

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

The pulsing I'm referring to can be felt in the pedal, but can be heard under the dash right where the booster is. Maybe popping is a better description ... like ABS feels when it's being activated.

EDIT: I should also mention, that when I overhauled the brake system, I had to extract brake fluid out of the booster from a leaky MC. I cleaned it up the best I could, but I figured I'd need to be replacing it at some point.

I believe that the bellow/baffle inside the booster is beginning to finally let go where about 1 cup of brake fluid had been sitting before I drained it out of there.

Also, when the popping occurs, the pedal gets harder and when I let off it goes back to normal for the next push until it pops again.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

damn man for $54 I would have done it. the booster in my SEC was bad when I got it.... that booster was something like $600 or so iirc. my parts car donated its booster to the cause

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

I say replace the Booster, nothing worse than putting on a new MC onto a potentially iffy booster.


On another note. Strongly consider changine your sway bar bushings during this procedure. That dman booster needs to come out and it is no fun. These bushings are really overlooked.

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