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#1
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How to disconnect door lock vacuum actuators?
I've capped off the vacuum system to the doors due to a leak and don't plan to use that in the near future. The driver's side rear door actuator is stiff though, making it hard to get the door lock up/down.
I have the door panel off and thought you'd just unscrew the white plastic thing from the metal rod that comes down from the lock handle, but it does not seem to want to come off...it just spins around and around. I'd like to get this thing off without being any more destructive than necessary in case I want power locks someday. The Haynes manual doesn't cover this at all. Is there some trick to this?
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1982 240D automatic Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now |
#2
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Pull the vac lines out of the actuator so you aren't fighting the diaphram in it.
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Chad 2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL |
#3
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I don't know if it is the same as the 124 & 201, but they have a mushroom-type thing that you push down toward the actuator to release the metal rod.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#4
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At least you know that actuator is good
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#5
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I just remembered, that white piece on the top of the actuator rod is a clip that you need to "unsnap" to release it from the rod above. But opening the vacuum on both sides of the actuator will work too and you only need to do one door then.
Check the photo in this link and you will see what the connector looks like when it's open. http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=29Y0IWSMD2AU16189F&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1982&product=O4010-44438&application=000023763
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Chad 2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL |
#6
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The white part is clipped onto the rod. You have to open the clip and then you can get the rod out. You can also pull the actuator with the rod attached. Thats usually how I pull them out.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#7
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On mine the connector at the actuator is a little different, I guess they varied from year to year or something. It has a collar around it that I had to pull down, then the rest of the connector kind of unfolded from around the rod in two halves.
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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now |
#8
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Even after unplugging the vacuum tubes leading into the actuator, the lock "rod" (thing that you pull/push on) would give a sort of long, gummy resistance to travel, either up or down. By chance I found that if I held the actuator down then the "rod" would "snap" back and forth (locked/unlocked). Since I don't intend to re-implement the vacuum lock system I just got some wire and tied the actuator in the down position. The door now works normally as a manual-lock system.
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1982 240D automatic Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now |
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