ive read all about people replacing their aux radiator fan brushes, but i havnt seen any details on how its done. how do you get the thing open?

also, is there a simple way on my 124 to get the fans out?

i already bought a new aux fan, but now my other one is out and i really dont want to spend all that money. im pretty sure its the brushes because back before they stopped working completely, i could tap on them to get them to start working again.

thanks

__________________
1991 300 D 2.5 Turbo, 220k
also in the family:
1981 240 D 185k
1991 350 SD 185k
2006 S 500
2005 SLK 350

When you say Aux Fan, are you talking about the blower that draws air over the inside temp sensor? If so, remove the glovebox. The unit snaps apart, not sure the brushes are replaceable though I think the motor is sealed/swedged closed.

If the heater/AC blower, no easy way, need to remove the wiper assembly.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

no, sorry. i mean the auxilliary radiator fans, the ones in front of the radiator. I really need to get them replaced because it gets really hot down here. its in the 60's right now and my coolant temp is around 90c already.

thanks

__________________
1991 300 D 2.5 Turbo, 220k
also in the family:
1981 240 D 185k
1991 350 SD 185k
2006 S 500
2005 SLK 350

I know a couple guys that "specialize" in getting stuck things unstuck, they do allot of work in the marine industry, you go to one of them when the "easy out" breaks off or worse

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Mr."G",
This DIY should help R+R them

(By the way,Where are you;that it's so temperate this early?)



Aux Fan Removal and Installation

On Sunday, July 6, 2003, Neil Chandler wrote:

A week ago I requested help on how to remove the auxiliary fans on a Model W124 E420. Thanks to the this wonderful list, and the people who are members, within hours I received four replies. I would like to publicly thank Richard McGinnis, Mike Yox, Kevin Kenner, and Marshalll Booth. The instructions worked just as described, and I have replaced the faulty fan. There are a few variations an E420, so I thought that I would describe them.

-Before you start, buy some new plastic rivets for the fan housing. P/N 123-990-00-92, 70 cents each at the dealer. The fan P/N is 000-500-85-93, $138 from Caliber.


-Remove the bumper, which is held on by 7 bolts, all visible and easy to reach. This lets you see everything, and avoids working below the car. You will also have to remove the license tag, and the carrier which holds it. In my case, I found that the carrier fits onto a metal strip, which was badly rusted, and needed replacing anyway. Remove the clip that holds the outside temperature indicator sensor in place, and poke it back into the bumper through the large hole. For a big piece, the bumper is surprisingly light and easy to handle. One person can do it easily.


-Remove the right head-lamp if you have to remove the right fan. (No need if it is the left fan). The two 8mm bolts which hold the outside edge of the right fan are almost impossible to start unless you can get at them. The head-lamp cannot be removed until you first remove the associated indicator assembly, released by a spring clip inside the black plastic air duct on the back of the head-lamp. The metal trim rail immediately below the lamp is secured with an 8mm bolt at each end. If you have head-lamp wipers, remove the arm, but leave it hanging on the water supply tube. Remove two more 8mm bolts visible inside the indicator housing, the upper clip (turn it 90 degrees), and the inner 8mm screw, next to the condenser, and the head-lamp can be wiggled out. If the wiper motor gets stuck, slide the rubber cover up the shaft, and loosen the 17mm nut holding the motor to the bottom of the lamp assembly. It will come out and go back in all in one piece.

-As Richard said, remove all 6 spring clips that hold the fan shroud, radiator, and condenser in place, and push them all back gently against the thermo-clutch. NB - Put a piece of cardboard between the fan and the radiator.

-Remove the horns and unplug them, and remove the reusable tie-wrap that holds the loom to the brace..

- Working in between the condenser and below the upper chassis cross-brace, using an offset ring wrench, remove the bolt which holds the top of the brace. There is not enough room to use a ratchet. Remove the bolt on the front of the upper chassis rail which also holds the power steering cooling loop.Remove the bolt that secures the bottom of the cooling loop to the body. Remove the screw holding the cooling loop to the chassis, behind the left head-lamp. This allows the loop to move a little more.Working from behind the bumper frame, remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the brace, and lift out the brace.

- Remove the air-tube to the left head-lamp air duct, unplug the sensor, and lift out the duct. (Do not forget to reinstall the sensor before you start the engine to test, because if you leave it off, it will set the red engine trouble light).

-On top of the chassis rail behind the head-lamp, you will see a clip holding the male and female plug for the power supply to the fans. Pull off the clip, and separate the two halves of the plug. Remove the tie-wrap holding the end of the fan loom. (If you did not already do so, this is the time to function-test the fans, but use a direct line to a battery, as the fans draw a lot of current.)

-The fans are bolted onto the condenser, and are covered by a plastic molding. The molding is held in place with 6 plastic rivets. There are four across the top, easily visible and accessible, but the lower two are only reachable from below. The center pins may be brittle and break off in place. In this case, just push them inward, through the rivet, and then remove the outer part of the rivet.

- Remove the fan molding. This takes a lot of pulling and pushing, but the molding is flexible, and comes out upwards.(When it is re-installed, there are three lugs which fit into the condenser, which are only visible when the bumper has been removed)

-The fan power harness is actually two separate cables inside one sheath. Each fan has a power lead coming off it, which is held on a bracket attached to each fan. The harness ends in two female two pin plugs, with side clips which must be depressed to separate the plug assembly. If you want to test or repair the harness, there are two clips securing it to the condenser, but there is no need to remove them otherwise. It is not easy to remove them without breaking them. Unplug the plugs, at which point you can also test each fan one by one if you want. Be sure to securely reseat the plugs when replacing them. It is a lot of work to fix a loose plug!

-The fans are held to the condenser brackets with a total of 6 ea 8mm bolts. As Richard said, the upper right and the lower left, on the outer edges, are bolts with a loose nut (which is hard to find if you let it drop by mistake!). The other four are all threaded directly into the fan outer housing ring.. The outside 4 are all visible, but very difficult to get at, as there is only1/2 inch of clearance. A ratcheting gear-wrench is the ideal tool for this. The two center bolts can be reached through one of the larger gaps in the fan blades, using a 1/4 inch ratchet. If you only want to remove one of the fans, leave the outside bolts in place for the fan to be left in place.

-Remove the fans upwards, wiggling the loop as you do so.

-Remove the clip which holds the wiring plug from the old fan, and re-use on the new fan.

-I found that the most difficult thing to do was to start the 8 mm bolts on the outer edge of the fans, simply because there is no access to get at them.

-Clean out the space between the radiator and the condenser, and at the bottom of the front of the condenser.

-When you replace the bumper, be sure to re-align the ventilation ducts and the upper rubber moldings, and don't forget to run the temperature sensor back through the hole first. Replace the right head-lamp.

-Test the fan functionality with a separate power supply at the main harness plug, then reinstall the head-lamp duct and back cover, and air tube, with the air temperature sensor put back in place.



Neil Chandler

LINKS for Brush(es) solutions: [read all of them]

Too cheap to buy new aux fans.
Bosch Aux Fan - New Bearing/Rebuilt - 123 Body
Bearings:
[url]http://www.bearingsdirect.com
Top center is of page is ESI #6001. Select "shielded" or "sealed", enter qty, and off ya go.