While I await the shop manual let me run one past the 240D gurus here.

I was told when I bought her that the vac pump was gone, today I hooked up a gauge/pump to test, I sampled in the main line to the brake booster, after about 30 sec I get 20" reading, when I dump and resample while running, back to 20" in a second, is 20" high/low/normal ?

2nd, when I turn her off, takes about 3-4sec to drop to 0", I'm thinking mabey a bad booster ?, thoughts ?.

Starts when using block heater in about 5sec, wont start with out, checked glow plugs, 11.3 volts on 3, 2 volts on one, have new ones on order, will 1 bad plug stop these from starting cold ?, batt reads 13v in the morning before starting, 13.8v running, seems to be cranking fast enough but then I am new to the Benz oil burners, thanks in advance for any/all input.

Don

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1980 240D, Future WVO Ride
1997 Z-71 6.5 Turbo Diesel, modded.

A Good Friend Will Bail You Out Of Jail,
But A True Friend Will Be Sitting Beside You Saying
"Damn That Was Fun"

20" of vacuum is fine. Leak could be anywhere so I wouldn't condemn the booster without testing it independently which you can do with the MityVac.

What year is the car? Does it have the loop plugs or pencil plugs? Loop plugs have heavy squiggly resistor wires that go from plug to plug with the front plug grounded to the block.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

1980 vintage, yes I was using the mityvac, going to check the booster straight tomorrow when I get new hose, the ones on it are rock hard and I'm guessing britle.

Yes they are the loop type, I have pencil type ordered, they are not wired together in series, a loom type wire coming from the drivers fender well (relay box ?) branching off with a different wire to each, the second one back from the front is the dead one.

__________________
1980 240D, Future WVO Ride
1997 Z-71 6.5 Turbo Diesel, modded.

A Good Friend Will Bail You Out Of Jail,
But A True Friend Will Be Sitting Beside You Saying
"Damn That Was Fun"

Oh, I was hoping for a more interesting discussion. Sorry, must be on the wrong forum!

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

Since the loop type is a series, when one GP goes out, the others after it also will not operate. Just like Christmas lights when one goes out.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

From your description of the wiring harness, you should already have pencil type plugs. If you have loop plugs hooked up without the heavy resistor wires passing from plug to plug, I don't believe the system will work well, if at all.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Your pump and booster sound fine to me. If you weren't getting 20" on the main vac line then I would persue the pump or the booster, but since you get 20" they should both be fine. The slow shutting down is going to be a leak somewhere else in the system. Try hooking your mity vac up to the shut-off valve on the back of the injection pump. Then start the car. They give the mity vac a pump. It should only take one or two pumps and the car should shut down immedetely(sp?). If it take more than two pumps or it still stumbles to a stop then the shut-off valve it bad. If it shuts off properly you'll need to investigate the rest of the vac system.

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I must have worded that wrong, I was talking about taking 3-4 sec for the vac to drop to zero, it won't shut off with key at all, only manually under the hood, also hard brakes, feels like weak booster, and weird shifting if left in drive, when I shift manual it does OK, this is what started the hunt, I'll try and shut her down with the mityvac (why does that just sound wrong) and let you know......again thanks all for the help.

__________________
1980 240D, Future WVO Ride
1997 Z-71 6.5 Turbo Diesel, modded.

A Good Friend Will Bail You Out Of Jail,
But A True Friend Will Be Sitting Beside You Saying
"Damn That Was Fun"

the GP's with the fender mounted relay box and set of wires from that box are pencil plugs, easy way to tell is by the size of the GP's if the wrench to pull the plug is 10mm then it's definately pencils. if it is a 17mm wrench, they could still be pencils, you just have to look at the length of the stud the wire is connected to. if the stud is 10mm, long it's pencil, if it's 30mm long it's a series plug. if you do have series plugs hooked up to a fender relay. they ain't working...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The way to test the booster is to plug your mityvac in to the main vac line plugging any other ports that are on the main vac line. With the car running you should get 20" or more of vac.
If the booster was leaking or the vac pump was failing you would get a significantly less reading with the mityvac. One way to check the booster itself is to unscrew the main vac line from the booster and plug the end of the vac line. Then start the car again and read the mity vac. If the reading jumps up your booster is leaking. But I'm guessing it isn't because you are getting 20" with it plugged in.

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From your description they must be pencils, I have'nt pulled them yet, waiting for the brown truck to come with the new ones, and hunting my leak, thanks for letting me know how to ID em without pulling, trying to work on this one in my spare time.

__________________
1980 240D, Future WVO Ride
1997 Z-71 6.5 Turbo Diesel, modded.

A Good Friend Will Bail You Out Of Jail,
But A True Friend Will Be Sitting Beside You Saying
"Damn That Was Fun"

Thanks, I'll try and post findings.

__________________
1980 240D, Future WVO Ride
1997 Z-71 6.5 Turbo Diesel, modded.

A Good Friend Will Bail You Out Of Jail,
But A True Friend Will Be Sitting Beside You Saying
"Damn That Was Fun"

O.K. Isolated booster, it's good

Brown line coming through firewall from key switch to IP has 0" vac with key on, turn off and it gets 20", so I guess I need to replace what it hooks to, this is called ?

__________________
1980 240D, Future WVO Ride
1997 Z-71 6.5 Turbo Diesel, modded.

A Good Friend Will Bail You Out Of Jail,
But A True Friend Will Be Sitting Beside You Saying
"Damn That Was Fun"

that is your shut off valve. if it is getting vac to it, and not shutting down, I'd say she's toast.
there is a particular method for replacement- do a search, or i think it is in the wiki

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Usually when that valve fails you have oil in that brown line. Best way to diagnose it is to pull the brown line off the shutoff valve, hook up a Mityvac or other vacuum pump to the valve, start car, turn off the key and supply a vacuum to the shutoff valve and see if car shuts down. It sounds though like you have trouble shot it to the valve from the other direction, which appears effective.
Also check the line for oil, you might have to flush them.
Mine dripped oil from the key switch {on to my leg!!}

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John