D911, think I'm going to use your idea for a return line, makes perfect reasoning!
That way the return is giving extra lubrication to the chain, some may make it around & back to the top of the engine.

What is the thread & size of that bolt? Did you replace the bolt w a fitting?

Thanks,
Dave[/QUOTE]

Since the time I did mine I found an old thread by one of our Members who used the Plug on the Fuel Injection Pump Governor for the return Oil.
That is easier to do and it is fat enough for a 1/8" pipe threads.
All that nice clean Oil goes inside of the Fuel Injection Pump.

When I did the Bolt on mine I removed it used my Thread Gauge and to find the size and bought another Bolt.
The diameter of the Bolt is too small for a 1/8" pipe tap so I drilled out the Bolt and JB Welded a 1/4 inch Tube in side of it to act as the Nipple.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That build up is soot !! I have seen it on other non MB applications. That filter sock must be doing a good job !!!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I thought it was soot but did not want to comment on that because everyone seems to want a lab test.
Also 0.5 nominal Microns is not as good as 0.5 Absolute Mircons but then then at the time I bought the Filters you could get about 10 of the String Wound Filters for the price of one Amsoil Bypass Filter.

More interesting is that the way my system is set up the Oil is first filtered through the bypass section of the stock Oil Filter and then goes in to my add on Byass Oil Filter.
So what you see on the add on Bypass Oil Filter is what was not filtered by the bypass section of the Stock Oil Filter (a Bosch one).

I have a feeling that this Filter works better than that because it is about 10 inches long so it has a large surface area and the flow through it must be extremely slow.

Also that is not a Sock. It is Cotton String Wound around a Steel Tube with holes in it.

The String is overlapped until there is about 1/2" of thickness around the Tube.

If you do an search for String Wound Filter you will find all kinds of them depending on the application you have in mind.

These filters are used in Industry and are made to be comparatively cheap to replace compared to their performance.
However, the real Filter Housing for these type of Filters is about $150; but, you can use many types of Filters in the same Housing.

Sadly my Oil still looks black even with better filtration.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Great job diesel911. Where can a get your setup to run the string filter? Thanks for sharing.

Happy motoring,
Dave

The Oil Filter Housing for the String type Filters is the problem.

String Type Filters are used in industrial settings and the Filters are cheap compared to let us say an Amsoil Bypass Filter. However, the Filter Housings that are made for those filters are around $249 or more.

So, I made the Oil Filter Housing myself out of a section of Exhaust Pipe and cut the 1/2" Steel Plate with Hole Saws.

To say that sounds simple but it ended up being extremely labor intensive.
And, the labor intensive part is sad because I had wanted to be able to make the Oil Filter Housings and sell them as an alternative to the more expensive Bypass Oil Filters that are sold.

But, unless I find an easier/better/faster way to make the Oil Filter Housing I cannot sell them.
Also the way you change the Oil Filter is not suitable for a commercial product.
Because of the above I have not put any more effort in to making some until I can figure out a better way to do that.

So the easiest way to go is to buy a Filter Base to fit the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter and the related Hose and Fittings. On the low end that is about $30; on the High end about $40.

Unfortunately the smallest Amsoil Bypass may cost as much as $32 each. However, when ForcedInduction was a member He said that you will not be changing it often.

When a Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up when you feel the Oil return Hose that Hose will not be hot because there is no longer Oil passing through it.
So you could simply keep your Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter in use until it is plugged.

If you are willing to accept 5 nominal Microns of filtration you could use the Filter I started off using at the beginning of this thread. The Oil Filter used is a Bypass Oil Filter From Carrier Gen Sets. They are arouns $13 each.
5 nominal Microns of filtration is better than the 22 or more nominal mircons of filtration that the stock type Filter has.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I decided to go with a Frantz. Got an old one off Ebay, been polishing and making it look nice... Deborah at WeFilterIt.com has been very helpful with respect to making sure I got all the right seals and assisting with install knowledge.

Seems easiest to T off the sending unit (cleaner looking install, no drilling, totally removable later) and I do want to put the return into the valve cover AND the IP, my concern with routing it to the IP is that if the filter clogs, the IP starves...maybe later after I've had a chance to see how it runs.

I'm in the middle of a rebuilt, which started with the AMSOIL motor flush and will finish with the car being filled with AMSOIL HD oil. I'm going to keep running STP stock filters for now and get the Frantz on the car as soon as I can locate the fittings and have the hoses made.

Pics to come...Salute

__________________
-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

The Oil Filter Housing for the String type Filters is the problem.

String Type Filters are used in industrial settings and the Filters are cheap compared to let us say an Amsoil Bypass Filter. However, the Filter Housings that are made for those filters are around $249 or more.

So, I made the Oil Filter Housing myself out of a section of Exhaust Pipe and cut the 1/2" Steel Plate with Hole Saws.

To say that sounds simple but it ended up being extremely labor intensive.
And, the labor intensive part is sad because I had wanted to be able to make the Oil Filter Housings and sell them as an alternative to the more expensive Bypass Oil Filters that are sold.

But, unless I find an easier/better/faster way to make the Oil Filter Housing I cannot sell them.
Also the way you change the Oil Filter is not suitable for a commercial product.
Because of the above I have not put any more effort in to making some until I can figure out a better way to do that.

So the easiest way to go is to buy a Filter Base to fit the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter and the related Hose and Fittings. On the low end that is about $30; on the High end about $40.

Unfortunately the smallest Amsoil Bypass may cost as much as $32 each. However, when ForcedInduction was a member He said that you will not be changing it often.

When a Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up when you feel the Oil return Hose that Hose will not be hot because there is no longer Oil passing through it.
So you could simply keep your Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter in use until it is plugged.

If you are willing to accept 5 nominal Microns of filtration you could use the Filter I started off using at the beginning of this thread. The Oil Filter used is a Bypass Oil Filter From Carrier Gen Sets. They are arouns $13 each.
5 nominal Microns of filtration is better than the 22 or more nominal mircons of filtration that the stock type Filter has.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Diesel911,
I like your filter housing setup. You should keep working on the manufacturing aspect of this until you can make a reasonably priced unit that will still make you a profit. I guess you would have to contract with the Chinese to do that. I would be curious to know more detail about how you built it and the materials you used, but I understand if you don't want to tell everything about it.

I don't like the idea of the oil line coming out of the filter housing lid. Seems cumbersome to me. I came out of the housing itself. The braided stainless bypass line is covered with the foam pipe insulation. The other line is braided stainless to replace the factory plastic oil pressure line. Pics below. And I prefer returning oil to the valve cover, over the timing chain...I think a little extra lube on that is a good thing. As you may know, my filter unit uses the tightly packed TP rolls. The problem I'm starting to have is finding good enough rolls, so I may need to switch to something similar to what you have someday. I appreciate you sharing your setup.

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Diesel-guy

Can you tell what kind of oil pressure you are getting from the supply lline/fitting you installed on top? If it is anywhere 30-50 psi, that's ideal to turn the centrifuge 3-4K rpm and return the clean via the valve cover. Also, what kind of oil pressure are you reading with the sending unit you installed.

Buy the way I have a different Bypass Oil Filter on there now. See post #26.

I have never checked it but I should get the same Oil pressure as is in the Oil Filter Housing that I tapped into.
On the my Turbo 617 I get a max Oil pressure of 97 psi with the Engine revvved up (I checked that right in the center of the Oil Filter Cap where I drilled into the Cap to tap the Oil for the bypass Oil Filter) and at hot idle I get 1.5 bar so that is around 29 psi.
The Manual claims that the Oil Pressure Relief Valve in the Oil Pump will open at 110 psi. So that is your max possible Oil Pressure.
That is for the Turbo 617s.

So as long as you are not idling on my Engine there is plenty of Oil Pressure to operate the Centrifugal Oil Filter.

At idle I don't know. It could be it would bleed off too much Oil pressure at idle. You won't know until you try.
There is a restricted Fitting in the Bypass Oil Filter setup so that it does not bleed off too much Oil Pressure at idle.

Maybe you need to fabricate a small pressure valve that will open only if the Oil Pressure is over 35 psi. That would simply mean that you Centrifugal Oil filter would not be working at idle speeds but would keep you from bleeding off too much pressure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am attempting to duplicate the process of drilling the center of the oil filter cap. How did you manage to drill it our far enough and run a tap deep enough to fully thread the area to accept the fitting.

I thought I put that in the Thread some where. In my case I have a Lathe and put the Cap Tube in the Lathe with the Cap on it and drilled it in the Center.

I was drilling to tap 1/8" pipe threads; no room for 1/4" pipe threads.

I also found out that the Tube going into the Cap is just pressed into the Cap; I removed that to help clean out the Chips from drilling.
You can pull that Tube out; turn the Cap upside Down, center Punch where you want the drill to go; use a small drill as a pilot Drill so you can drill the hole in the Center an then follow that with the proper sized Tap Drill for 1/8" pipe threads.

But, actually you can also drill anywhere on the Cap between the Casting Webs. Again better to drill from the inside to the out side.
If you look in the on pic you can see I drilled the spot my Oil Pressure Alarm Sending Unit on another part of the Cap.

You could also drill into the Housing itself but if you make a mistake you would need to change the whole Oil Filter Housing or remove it and get it welded.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm putting a Frantz bypass on my OM617. Not sure where would be ideal for the return but I'm thinking thru the valve cover to hit the chain would work. In the mean time anyone know where we can get the baldwin's filter? I smell a group buy!

__________________
-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

Are you speaking of the Baldwin Filter that replaces the Stock Oil Filter?

Don't use the Bladwin Bypass Filter that I used at the beginning of the Thread. Later in the Thread I explain that it does not filter down fine enough. Towads the end of the thread I changed the Bypass Filter type.

As for where to tap in the return line that is up to you. The Valve cover is a good place; ForcedInduction I believe used that place so it dripped onto the Timing Chain.

Also once you have your Bypass Oil Filter System installed it does not matter so much what stock type Oil filter you use.
You could pic the filter in the below thread with the finest filtration in the Full Flow Section of the filter.
See post #32
NAPA Gold Filters

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you for your detailed reply!

Yes I was talking about the replacement for the stock filter. Forcedinductions setup is where i got the idea to put the return....all the mechanics love that idea too, even tho one of them tells me the toilet paper will come apart.


As far as the canister, I'll still use the best I can find even with the bypass running. Cleaner oil is better

__________________
-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)