I am attempting to duplicate the process of drilling the center of the oil filter cap. How did you manage to drill it our far enough and run a tap deep enough to fully thread the area to accept the fitting.

I thought I put that in the Thread some where. In my case I have a Lathe and put the Cap Tube in the Lathe with the Cap on it and drilled it in the Center.

I was drilling to tap 1/8" pipe threads; no room for 1/4" pipe threads.

I also found out that the Tube going into the Cap is just pressed into the Cap; I removed that to help clean out the Chips from drilling.
You can pull that Tube out; turn the Cap upside Down, center Punch where you want the drill to go; use a small drill as a pilot Drill so you can drill the hole in the Center an then follow that with the proper sized Tap Drill for 1/8" pipe threads.

But, actually you can also drill anywhere on the Cap between the Casting Webs. Again better to drill from the inside to the out side.
If you look in the on pic you can see I drilled the spot my Oil Pressure Alarm Sending Unit on another part of the Cap.

You could also drill into the Housing itself but if you make a mistake you would need to change the whole Oil Filter Housing or remove it and get it welded.

I'm putting a Frantz bypass on my OM617. Not sure where would be ideal for the return but I'm thinking thru the valve cover to hit the chain would work. In the mean time anyone know where we can get the baldwin's filter? I smell a group buy!

Are you speaking of the Baldwin Filter that replaces the Stock Oil Filter?

Don't use the Bladwin Bypass Filter that I used at the beginning of the Thread. Later in the Thread I explain that it does not filter down fine enough. Towads the end of the thread I changed the Bypass Filter type.

As for where to tap in the return line that is up to you. The Valve cover is a good place; ForcedInduction I believe used that place so it dripped onto the Timing Chain.

Also once you have your Bypass Oil Filter System installed it does not matter so much what stock type Oil filter you use.
You could pic the filter in the below thread with the finest filtration in the Full Flow Section of the filter.
See post #32
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/247597-napa-gold-filters-3.html?highlight=Bosch+Oil+filters

Thank you for your detailed reply!

Yes I was talking about the replacement for the stock filter. Forcedinductions setup is where i got the idea to put the return....all the mechanics love that idea too, even tho one of them tells me the toilet paper will come apart.


As far as the canister, I'll still use the best I can find even with the bypass running. Cleaner oil is better :)

Well I am sure Baldwin would be happy to sell you a case of Filters. Baldwin P102 = Hastings LF380
Contact the below site and see if they can find a local dealer for you:
http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/

Here is one I guess would ship to you: http://www.baldwinfiltersrus.com/

I forgot to mention there has been and still is several other Bypass Filter Companies besides Frantz that use Toilet Paper or Paper Towels as the Element and they do not fall apart.

And, if a person is in doubt they can simply buy the Elements that each company provides. Even if you buy the Elements they are going to cost a lot less then the $30 to $40 something the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter cost.

Below is a pic of a used Toilet Paper Element; looks pretty intact to me.

OK So should I start a thread on group buys for the Baldwin and Frantz? :D

I've always been impressed by this filter: Bypass Oil Filter System : FS-2500

They are kinda spendy, but it appears to work pretty well. The 3rd party testing appears to be impressive, although I'd like more information on exactly how it was done (e.g. grade of oil, how soot was introduced, how they measured "minutes", test setup, etc.), but taking it at face value, it seems pretty good. It also looks like they have been around for awhile, with good testimonials.

Sincerely,

Packman

There is actually even quite a few very High End Bypass Oil Filters or systems.
The Government is supposed to be useing some of this company's filters.
<Keep It Clean with Puradyn>

In My own case I picked a Filter that is used for commercial purposes so I expect that the filtration level is well established.
It is a 0.05 nominal Micron Filter and costs around $2.60 each when I bought a Case of them.

The nominal Micron rating is not as good as the absolute rating but I just felt that spending $40 on a Filter was not for Me but I wanted better filtration so I compromised.

I am not sure what type of testing has been done on the Toilet Paper/Paper Towel Types but one of the Companies; Gulf Coast sells larger models that are used on Big Rig Diesels and large Hydraulic equipment. The Companies like Pepsi that used their Filters do their own tests.

after much looking...reading and thinking
 

I decided to go with a Frantz. Got an old one off Ebay, been polishing and making it look nice... Deborah at WeFilterIt.com has been very helpful with respect to making sure I got all the right seals and assisting with install knowledge.

Seems easiest to T off the sending unit (cleaner looking install, no drilling, totally removable later) and I do want to put the return into the valve cover AND the IP, my concern with routing it to the IP is that if the filter clogs, the IP starves...maybe later after I've had a chance to see how it runs.

I'm in the middle of a rebuilt, which started with the AMSOIL motor flush and will finish with the car being filled with AMSOIL HD oil. I'm going to keep running STP stock filters for now and get the Frantz on the car as soon as I can locate the fittings and have the hoses made.

Pics to come...Salute

The STP Oil Filter for the 617.952 is made in India and the tube that is inside of the Bypass section of the Oi Filter is not attached to anything at the bottom.

Nice job on the filters. I tend to be very conservative on oil system modification.

The only four stroke engine that I ever blew the bottom end out of was because the line to the oil gauge that I installed, cracked, puking almost all of the oil out before I caught it.

The last time I had oiling problems was not that serious but it occurred when a reinforced rubber line on the tractor blew. It would be good if you could get a farm equipment dealer to cut and make you some nice hydraulic hose with swedged on fittings. It isn't expensive and they will do it while you wait.

I am not sure who the "nice Job" comment was aimed at?

The Oil Pressure line to the Fuel Injection Pump and the Oil Pressure Gauge line are made of TECALAN which is not sold here.

The Stock Transmission and Oil Cooler Hoses have been know to leak to the destruction of the Trans or Engine but that is because they were Old.

I have also seen Hoses with the Exterior Steel Braided Hoses leak and even the Hoses with braided Steel inside of the Hose Walls leak.

I have seen Metal Tubes crack and leak.

I have seen new Oil and Hydraulic Hoses with crimped collars leak around the Collar.

Any area where a Hose is some what enclosed and the Hose is exposed to inside or outside heat decreases the Hose life. Actually Heat decreases the Hoses life no matter what.

I have concluded from most of the above that the best way to decrease the chance of a serious leak are inspections and replacement before they get too old.

PM sent.