Originally Posted by KAdams4458 (Post 3058883)

Yep, you really have to keep an eye on hoses, but it's just standard maintenance to inspect hoses. In the case of add-on hoses like you have with an aftermarket oil bypass system, the biggest thing to be worried about is probably hose routing. Keep them from rubbing and vibrating when they are installed.

Back when I was worked with a company that was importing bypass filters from Germany, I handled a lot of installation questions for them, and that was my usually my biggest installation concern. You can have the best hoses and fittings in the world, but if you route them poorly, you'll have problems.

I'll be installing the Trabold bypass filter from my old Saturn on my 300D soon, and figure I'll just tap right in to the top of the filter housing with a banjo bolt. I only wish I could come up with a way to hang the filter on the motor itself, as that would relieve a lot of the hose shaking that will occur from mounting it remotely in the engine bay, which would translate to longer hose life and less chance of leaks.

Originally Posted by KAdams4458 (Post 3058952)

Incidentally, I use a MotorGuard on my shop air lines. It works fantastic at the end of 25' of copper line with a drain leg. It catches all of the water and oil that make it through the line, and I've never had trouble spraying paint because of it. I can see it working very well as a bypass oil filter.

Originally Posted by SpecialDelivery (Post 3059204)

I like the look of the Frantz for my 82...looks slightly before era...but it's robust, effective (supposedly, tests will tell) and the elements are cheap. Also I'll say while I can't annotate it, that I did read a board post (not here) from a fella who said he scrapped his raycor after the Frantz showed cleaner oil on the lab tests he had run. I acutally dont care to jack around with making my car a test bunny...plus my odometer is currently broken...so it going on the car asap, hopefully to co-incide with the final of this head / manifold build I'm in the middle of :)

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 3059286)

Do you have any idea what type of Parker/Racor Oil Filter he was using. I don't think any of the Spin-ons they sell are like the Amsoil Spin-on Bypass Filters.

I ask because Racor has Spin-on Filters and have also put their name on another company's Bypass Oil Filter made by Oil Guard. It uses a fat String Wound Filter Element (the Element ie wrapped with string).

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 1783214)

I became only slightly interested in installing a Bypass Oil Filter on my car after reading a thread by one of the members. But my real motivation to finally do something about it came from this and another thread concerning the bypass section of the stock Mercedes oil filter and its being filled with raw cotton as it come off of the plant still having plant debris, dirt and on occasions bugs mixed in with the cotton. On top of this none of the companies that use this type of filter media in their filters can tell you how well the upper bypass part of their filters preform while the can tell you how well the full flow part performs. You can read through that thread if you want more:OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????
OIL FILTERS: which one to buy???? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

My buying the filters and other supplies got ahead of my research on the stuff I needed. Due to my ignorance of filter rating systems I ask the Baldwin company “what is the lowest micron rating on your B50 filter” and was told 2 microns. As I would find out after I ordered the filters (I ordered B164 filters ; the longer version of the B50) this is not exactly the case. The filter has a 2 micron nominal rating and a 15 micron absolute rating.
A quote from an article: “A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20 microns or larger is nominally efficient at 20 microns.
A filter is considered to achieve absolute filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove 98.7% of particles that size. So, if a filter can remove 98.7% of particles 20 microns or larger, it achieves absolute efficiency at that micron level.”
The site the quote came from: http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change-7.htm
So it appears that the Baldwin B164 filters I bought can remove 50% of the particles down to 2 microns in the nominally efficient category and >98% of the 15 micron particles.
For my particular installation I may get better overall particle filtration as the oil passes through the bypass section of the stock filter before it goes into the B164 filter and is being filtered by 2 bypass filters.
To save money I made my own filter head/mount at a cost of $5 for the 3/16” metal plate (enough for 3 filter heads) and 52 cents for the 5/6-18x1 inch bolt. (The correct Baldwin filter head/mount OB1305 cost $27-30 + shipping.)
The brass fittings I bought at OSH hardware and I am using ¼ inch fuel hose until I can order some hydraulic/oil cooler hose at a later date.
I tapped into the bypass oil that goes through the center stem of the oil filter cap and pressurized oil goes from there into the B164 oil filter.
I could not find a decent place to mount the filter head so I decided to bolt a Grape Fruit Juice can in front of the fender well (with foam padding) and just drop the filter into it.
I decided to drain the oil back into the crankcase by way of the dip stick tube using a bent 3/8 aluminum tubing and a 3/8 fuel line rubber sleeve to seal it. See Pic:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...el911/ZTUB.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...sel911/ZU8.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...sel911/ZU9.jpg

Originally Posted by WMO Madness (Post 3099736)

I know this thread is old, but I finally had the time to install the centrifuge oil filter on my 1984 300D. I drilled and tapped the center of the filter cap as shown on the photo. I am not getting any oil from it, was there something else I needed to do? Thank you.

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 3099845)

Does Oil come out of the Top when there is no fitting installed?

At the top of that long Tube is a about 1/16" hole drilled into the side of the Tube; is that open?

Originally Posted by WMO Madness (Post 3100159)

I didn't dare attempt to do that, it would have been a mess. The hole is free, since I have an extra cap I drilled a hole about the same place where your sending unit is mounted. that seems to send oil through the centrifuge and oil pressure is back to normal. Thank you.

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 3058991)

You can see fromt he Box they were previosuly sold as Bypass Oil Filters and on eBay they often sell the old adapter Plates for various Engines that Motor guard made.

The used Frantz Oil Filters show up more on eBay and it is hard to buy one fore less than $70.

Functionally the Motor Gurads do the same thing and can be had new for about the same price.

What I find interesting is even though the no longer market the Motor Guard Filters as Oill Filters they did not change the name to reflect the Air Line Filter use.