You are describing a bypass valve, not a bypass filter. The bypass section of the filter is always working.

Neither the Kragens or Autozone near me have oil cooler hose (except in an oil cooler kit); I will replace it when I get around to it.
The sensor on the oil filter cap is an oil pressure sensor; part of my low oil pressure alarm. There is a thread on it I started at the beginning of last week.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Forced Induction already answered part of this; but what I would like to say is that If you manufacture an oil filter you ought to know how well it can filter. I am talking about quality control. How do you check the filters you make to see if you are putting out good quality if you do not have
any sort of standard that they have to perform to?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Generally reputable manufacturers will do selective analysis of a product on their production line from time to time as well as extensive tests of the prototype prior to putting it into production. So its likely it will perform to its intended applications.

I am sure there are standards that filters have to meet too....at least I hope there are. You can always analyze them yourself too to make sure they are working properly. But that could be expensive. $$$

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I am describing a bypass valve and some "bypass filters".
Some full flow oil filter designs have a bypass valve, and anti-flowback valve, integral to the filter and when the filter becomes clogged, it allows unfiltered oil to prevent oil starvation of the engine.
Some full flow oil filter designs have a bypass valve on the engine to accomplish the same concept. This design also has an anti-flowback valve located on the engine.Since I did not see either a bypass valve or anti-flowback valve on the filter cartridge, I suspected the latter.

Some two-stage or bypass filters have a "fine" full-flow and an "ultra-fine" bypass section. Some have a "fine" full-flow and "coarse" bypass so that there is at least some filtration of the oil rather than un-filtered. Given what I see in the filters, I suspected the latter in this case also.

Now I haven't studied the oil system on this car but maybe someone has. You tell me.............

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

On the oil filter in my car there is a lower full flow portion made of pleated paper media; the companies can and have told the micron ratings on that portion of the filter. They are speechless on the rating of the upper bypass portion of the filter; I think it is because the do not know the performance of this part of the filter.
While I could have an oil analysis done on the crankcase oil I have no way of testing the performance of each of the separate parts of the filter by themselves without building some sort of test bench; which I do not plan to do.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I believe in the massive oil filter thread it was found that the typical upper bypass section of the stock filter ranges from 15 micron (Baldwin dual pleated paper style) to 25-30 micron for the packed cotton material. Once I run out of Fram filters I am going to switch to the Baldwin filters and call it good enough.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I cannot answer for Forced Induction or on other filter setups but I am the best qualified to answer for my setup.
If the extra filter I installed becomes plugged up the oil flow from the oil pump will continue to go through the full flow part of the lower portion of the stock filter and continue to go through the upper portion of the stock filter (the bypss portion of the filter) through the orfice in the hollow stem that is attached to the filter cap and down passed the stem check valve and into the crankcase just as it would if I had not installed my extra filter.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The oil that goes through the bypass filter goes through the very small restriction orifice and straight back to the oil pan.

UPDATE- I was getting a little oil seepage around the top of the dip stick tube. I added a piece of 5/8 heater hose. One clamp clamps it to the dipstick tube the other clamp clamps it to the 3/ rubber hose with the 3/8 tubing going through it.
I was at the junk yard today and picked up another valve cover oil filler cap and will try drilling a hole through that to relocate the return oil from the dipstick tube to that cap.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Update.
11-04-2010 I removed the Bypass Oil Filter set up that I installed at the beginning of this thread and replaced with a homemade Filter Housing that uses a 0.5 Nominal Micron cotton string wound Filter Element.
(The reason for making my own housing is a real one for that type of Filter element is quite expensive. However, once you have a Housing the Filter Elements cost about $3 each when you buy a case of 12.)

I also relocated the Bypass Filter Oil Return line from the Dipstick Tube to a tube that I drilled and mounted in to the Bolt that is item #94 in the drawing of the Engine.

1 pic shows the housing and Element and the other shows where I mounted it.

The last 2 pics show what the Filter looked like after being used for 1 year with an 1 Oil Change during that time but the Bypass Filter Element not changed till today.

In the last pic on the right you can see some thing has built up on the out side of the Filter element showing that the Filter is working.

Attached Thumbnails

         

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That build up is soot !! I have seen it on other non MB applications. That filter sock must be doing a good job !!!

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I thought it was soot but did not want to comment on that because everyone seems to want a lab test.
Also 0.5 nominal Microns is not as good as 0.5 Absolute Mircons but then then at the time I bought the Filters you could get about 10 of the String Wound Filters for the price of one Amsoil Bypass Filter.

More interesting is that the way my system is set up the Oil is first filtered through the bypass section of the stock Oil Filter and then goes in to my add on Byass Oil Filter.
So what you see on the add on Bypass Oil Filter is what was not filtered by the bypass section of the Stock Oil Filter (a Bosch one).

I have a feeling that this Filter works better than that because it is about 10 inches long so it has a large surface area and the flow through it must be extremely slow.

Also that is not a Sock. It is Cotton String Wound around a Steel Tube with holes in it.

The String is overlapped until there is about 1/2" of thickness around the Tube.

If you do an search for String Wound Filter you will find all kinds of them depending on the application you have in mind.

These filters are used in Industry and are made to be comparatively cheap to replace compared to their performance.
However, the real Filter Housing for these type of Filters is about $150; but, you can use many types of Filters in the same Housing.

Sadly my Oil still looks black even with better filtration.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Great job diesel911. Where can a get your setup to run the string filter? Thanks for sharing.

Happy motoring,
Dave

The Oil Filter Housing for the String type Filters is the problem.

String Type Filters are used in industrial settings and the Filters are cheap compared to let us say an Amsoil Bypass Filter. However, the Filter Housings that are made for those filters are around $249 or more.

So, I made the Oil Filter Housing myself out of a section of Exhaust Pipe and cut the 1/2" Steel Plate with Hole Saws.

To say that sounds simple but it ended up being extremely labor intensive.
And, the labor intensive part is sad because I had wanted to be able to make the Oil Filter Housings and sell them as an alternative to the more expensive Bypass Oil Filters that are sold.

But, unless I find an easier/better/faster way to make the Oil Filter Housing I cannot sell them.
Also the way you change the Oil Filter is not suitable for a commercial product.
Because of the above I have not put any more effort in to making some until I can figure out a better way to do that.

So the easiest way to go is to buy a Filter Base to fit the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter and the related Hose and Fittings. On the low end that is about $30; on the High end about $40.

Unfortunately the smallest Amsoil Bypass may cost as much as $32 each. However, when ForcedInduction was a member He said that you will not be changing it often.

When a Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up when you feel the Oil return Hose that Hose will not be hot because there is no longer Oil passing through it.
So you could simply keep your Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter in use until it is plugged.

If you are willing to accept 5 nominal Microns of filtration you could use the Filter I started off using at the beginning of this thread. The Oil Filter used is a Bypass Oil Filter From Carrier Gen Sets. They are arouns $13 each.
5 nominal Microns of filtration is better than the 22 or more nominal mircons of filtration that the stock type Filter has.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel