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  #1  
Old 03-12-2008, 02:01 PM
mobetta's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: minnesota,hey.
Posts: 1,841
YOU DO NOT NEED to drop the exhaust for the carrier bearing.(w123) jack up the rear end, support w/ stands,(if its on ramps, you cant rotate the driveshaft) put car in N and crawl under w/ 15mm & 17mm wrenches. also a 12mm socket and at least 6" extension. remove the 3 bolts which attactch the flex disc to the rear diff. remove 2 bolts that are on bearing support. pry the flex disc off rear end, remove to the rear of the car.

to do the bearing, a big puller is required. I used a pvc tube to drive mine on, but it was weak. a 1 1/4"X10" pipe nipple will work.
I would order a new bearing, mount, and the 2 metal shields which are on either side.
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1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2008, 02:09 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 45
Great Instructions!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
YOU DO NOT NEED to drop the exhaust for the carrier bearing.(w123) jack up the rear end, support w/ stands,(if its on ramps, you cant rotate the driveshaft) put car in N and crawl under w/ 15mm & 17mm wrenches. also a 12mm socket and at least 6" extension. remove the 3 bolts which attactch the flex disc to the rear diff. remove 2 bolts that are on bearing support. pry the flex disc off rear end, remove to the rear of the car.

to do the bearing, a big puller is required. I used a pvc tube to drive mine on, but it was weak. a 1 1/4"X10" pipe nipple will work.
I would order a new bearing, mount, and the 2 metal shields which are on either side.
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS. Good thing, because I was just searching online and could not find ujoints for sale on any sites. the center bearing and rubber mounts are plentiful ($50 for the pair). I have not seen the metal shields though. I will pick up some jack stands this weekend and order the parts, I am just hoping I am not replacing a part this has already been replaced recently. Hard to tell, very dirty under there. $50 is not a bad loss though if problem persists.
Thanks again for all the advice. I was also thinking about replacing flex discs as well even though they do not appear to be cracking.
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2008, 02:13 PM
High River Alberta Canada
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: High River, Alberta,Canada
Posts: 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
YOU DO NOT NEED to drop the exhaust for the carrier bearing.(w123) jack up the rear end, support w/ stands,(if its on ramps, you cant rotate the driveshaft) put car in N and crawl under w/ 15mm & 17mm wrenches. also a 12mm socket and at least 6" extension. remove the 3 bolts which attactch the flex disc to the rear diff. remove 2 bolts that are on bearing support. pry the flex disc off rear end, remove to the rear of the car.

to do the bearing, a big puller is required. I used a pvc tube to drive mine on, but it was weak. a 1 1/4"X10" pipe nipple will work.
I would order a new bearing, mount, and the 2 metal shields which are on either side.
You will also want a large set of channel lock pliers to loosen that big nut so you can shorten the drive shaft when prying it off the rear end.
I'd suggest a good look see with a trouble light, before you buy parts in case your flex disks look iffy(little cracks in the rubber around the bolt heads). If they look bad you would want to change them while you are 1/2 way there.
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Alberta Luthier
1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
1984 300SD ('Old Blue')150k Klicks from Japan originally, came with rear head rests, no sunroof and never had an EGR
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