door stuck open - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JBG · #1 03-13-2008, 11:46 PM

I did a little research and am guessing it might be the door check strap? It's the driver's side rear door--definitely doesn't get used much, and it was getting really sticky, now it just won't shut (without some force, that is).

Is this a Lithium grease situation or time for a new part? How can you tell?

Thanks in advance,

Bio300TDTdriver · #2 03-13-2008, 11:52 PM

Pull the panel off the door and take it out. Then if it is in a black plastic cover, pull it out of the cover. Once it is out, you should be able to tell if it just needs grease or if you need a new one. I was able to grease one of mine and had to replace another one.

t walgamuth · #3 03-13-2008, 11:53 PM

The hinges may just need lubing.

Do you know how to do it?

Tom W

JBG · #4 03-14-2008, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

The hinges may just need lubing.

Do you know how to do it?

Tom W

It sounds like it's just in need of some serious lube....but no, I don't know how to do it. In fact, I don't know how to take the door panel off. I've never dealt with door issues before on any vehicle....

Can anyone hook me up with some step-by-step guidance? I've paid $2500 to the mechanic since the new year and I think I'm all set with that for a while (fingers crossed!!).

Thanks!

Bio300TDTdriver · #5 03-14-2008, 12:10 PM

I could tell you how to do it on a 124, but sadly not on your Volvo, I mean 123. There are plenty of 123 folks on here or you could search the DIY section.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/50844-83-240d-does-anyone-know-how-remove-inside-door-panels-without-damaging-them-post296651.html

JimmyL · #6 03-14-2008, 12:21 PM

If it is literally hard to close, meaning there is resistance prior to it trying to latch, then the door check strap is the likely culprit.
If it closes fine just doesn't latch fully all the time then it is your door striker plate. Plastic insert crumbles and door latch mechanism doesn't work properly.

With good insert in door striker. {don't think only the insert can be purchased}

JBG · #7 04-04-2008, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

The hinges may just need lubing.

Do you know how to do it?

Tom W

Tom,

After poking around, i.e. putting my fingers down around the check strap where it goes into the door, it just seems like it needs some lube. At least, that seems the best thing to try first, before replacing it.

So, how to do it? What kind of lube? Lithium grease? Just squirt it in there? Is there a way to do it without taking the door apart? I can kind of reach the end of the check strap through the opening where it attaches to the frame.

Thanks in advance,

JBG

mechmagcn · #8 04-04-2008, 04:45 PM

On my 300SD I use a spray lithium grease with the extension tube on the nozzle.

kerry · #9 04-04-2008, 04:54 PM

There are a couple of different style check straps. One style involves two ball bearings with a string between them pushing the balls into detents. It is VERY HARD to lubricate these balls with the check strap installed and they will reach a point where the door will not close.
If you spray something like WD-40 up at the top of the door end of the strap as close to the ball as possible, it might provide enough lubrication to the ball to loosen it up.
When removed, there are holes in the top of the detents in which you can spray a thin lubricant which will then flow around the ball.

Skippy · #10 03-13-2008, 11:56 PM

Could also be the rubber and metal thing that the stricker clicks onto. I don't know the proper name, but it's the thing at the rear of the door jamb about halfway up, metal outside with rubber inside and a hole in the middle, and secured with four Allen screws. Mine got loose and started migrating inboard on the driver doo of my 240. A few minutes moving it back out and my door-not-closing agonies were over.

JBG · #11 03-14-2008, 01:38 PM

searched "door w123" and there's nothing on how to remove the panel. On the up side, I did find this link:

DIY Pages. Overview of current pages with links. W123 basis.

Which has a lot of other 123-related fixes (but, alas, not on replacing the check strap/removing the door panel).

I remember reading on Diesel Giant that you should get a special tool for popping the door panel off the clips so you don't break them, as they're really sensitive. I mentioned this to a mechanic who will remain nameless (Ryan's Imported Auto, Northampton, MA--DO NOT GO THERE), and he laughed at me and said you can just use a flat head screwdriver and pop it off. Which is probably true....still, don't go there. There are way better reasons not to go there than this, trust me.

Anyway, should I just take a freakin' flat head to the panel and start a poppin'??? I'm sure that'll work AWESOMELY.

HELP please guys!

JimmyL · #12 03-14-2008, 01:42 PM

I use a flat paint scraper. You don't so much worry about breaking the tabs, although that will happen, but you really don't want to bend/crease the cardboard backing. That is reason enough to use something flat to pop out the tabs.

JBG · #13 03-14-2008, 01:51 PM

Cool. Also there's a good step by step for a CD at the Diesel Giant:

http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesmastervacuumswitchinstall.htm

Doesn't get to the check strap, but I assume that's just a matter of unscrewing the 3 bolts, removing, replacing with a new one. Easy. No?

Only remaining question: what's the deal with 003870 versus 003871 chassis? Mine doesn't seem to include either sequence of numbers, according to the MB VIN check data on the Rusky site.

?

mobetta · #14 03-14-2008, 03:39 PM

Hinges have a lube port on then in the center, accepts the same lil grease gun fitting as my chainsaw bar.....if yer still confused on it, do a search..........

t walgamuth · #15 03-15-2008, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

Hinges have a lube port on then in the center, accepts the same lil grease gun fitting as my chainsaw bar.....if yer still confused on it, do a search..........

The needed fitting is a fat needle to insert into your grease gun. Put it on the little nipple in the middle of the hinge. There is a little check ball there that goes in when you push the grease in under pressure. The hinges can be remarkably stiff if the lube is old and dry but it will not feel like a metallic resistance.....just stiff.

Tom W